tommy1

Tommy,  I have not seen a plan of yours that solves the  problem.  I know you plan on explaining how to do it in your workshop tonight,  but for those of us unable to attend,  would it be possible for you to post a plan tomorrow with outlets that work.  

 

I don't even care if I know how to do it,  if I can copy your outlets and put in my plan I will be one happy camper and I will take you out to a wonderful lunch of your choice.

Scott, what we are doing is a workaround because it DOESN"T WORK straight out of the library. If you use David's method which I believe is the best, you have to place each outlet separately in the plan. As you know, copying doesn't work. This and other things have not worked correctly since I can remember. What I'm going to show tonight is how to make it work. You won't be missing anything on this topic.

The only difference I see so far (I think) is that I used the horizontal cabinet outlet.

Mick, remember that you need to change it to place on the wall or yes you'll have to change the origins too in X7. X7 is better than previous versions.

and make sure you change the X,Y,Z, origins to 0" for each or they don't set to the height to center set in the Objects DBX.

 

at least I had to do this as they set at  1 1/2" high and 2 1/2" high for the Vertical one. ( ie height is really set to Bottom of object)  , when you click on them in elevation views you see the bounding box is in the wrong place which is what alerted me to this. Not sure if I have the Latest Catalogue items though?  (MEP got a update a while back but nothing tonight , just checked)

Mick, In X7, I didn't have to change any origins. Only in earlier versions as stated.

David, good find about changing it to place on the wall. Didn't think of that....saves time. I ran a test in X5, X6 and X7 to see the differences on how this works. In X5 and X6 you need to change the origin as well. They improved it (probably by accident) in X7. In X7, do as David shows and make it hang on wall and change the height to center.

I might go into it later...working today. Quick answer, place outlet in plan where you want it to display, and set height, change offsets. BTW, we into this in depth along time ago. As mentioned, I'll demonstrate this at our User Group Meeting. 

 Now that I think of it,  I think we should extend this contest to the gurus at CA.  I am sure  they can solve this issue in about 5.68 minutes.  I wish someone had asked them to do this about 10 years ago.

I did. At least it doesn't take long to do this...about as much time as placing an outlet on a slab, solid or column.

I think I'll show how to fix this at our User Group Meeting tomorrow evening. Good topic.

With the "Plan View" open and looking at it, go to file>print> page set up. Change it there. By default, it will be at 1/4". I don't have the program open so my wording may be off a little.

Why is it that it is you and I who gripe about this and nobody else?  Don't they see the problem?

Scott, I complained about this for years back with V10. Gave up after a while. I just complained again about not showing mulled windows (and doors) in a schedule that has been broken since Version 9.5. There is a recent post here about that where Chief said it will be turned in. We'll see.

We have an online meeting Monday, June 1st. from 6:00pm to 8:00pm (Central Time). If you would like to join in, then please send me an email at my email address shown in my signature.

Just try placing the roofs. Make the fascia heights match. Join roofs to main roof. If you need to move the roofs to a better location, shift/select them and move them, re-join.

In general with the program, if an object is dimensioned, you click on the object and try to move it with the dimension but you don't see the "finger", then that generally means that the dimension line is not going to that object...it's going to something else.

In Houston, if you're buying a house in a Historic District, it is disclosed and you know it. Here, the districts are usually several blocks. There are several Historical Districts. If you are at the end of one of the blocks in the district, then yes the houses on the other side of the street could very well be new modern houses. There have also been times when there is conflict with the Historic District and the City of Houston concerning city codes. It always gets worked out. I know this because I had this problem once when I was a contractor. After a long fight, the city field inspector told us how to get around it and make it all work. Some city codes don't apply in the Historical Districts.

Construction obviously varies in different areas as usual.

BTW, many of these houses were built using square nails that are slightly tapered. It's cool to find. I heard that the blacksmiths used to make them. Don't know for sure. These houses are very well built. Also, it's very hard to drive a nail into these shiplap walls with a hammer because wood gets very hard as it ages. I have shiplap walls on all my walls in my house and it's kind hard to drive a nail into them.

Decorationarts,

They have 1x12 shiplap (thicker than 3/4")

Yes. in the very old houses here, the old 1x12 ship lap is closer to 7/8" thick.

How do they have ship lap in the interior?

All of the houses here in the Historical district have shiplap on both sides on the interior and exterior walls.

What is thicker then 3/4" ? 

Already answered.

on both sides of the studs

Already answered. Yes.

How do they have shiplap in the inside? Should't be Lath and Plaster? 

No. The only areas that have lath and plaster are areas that have tile like in the bathrooms and some kitchens. Many rooms with wallpaper have a separate cloth backing.

and below the ceiling joists (sometimes on top too).

Would that be lath and plaster?

No lath and plaster. Shiplap like I said. We have seen some houses with shiplap above the ceiling joists too.

1/4" drywall on the inside

Yes.

Again, lath and plaster? Drywall was later, this is 1890

I can't be specific about the years. These houses in the "Heights" were the first houses built in Houston when Houston became a city.

and wood siding on the exterior.

how thick the wood siding?

Slightly over 3/4" but close enough. Cedar was thicker (in most cases).

2x4 rafters at 24" O.C. with 3/4 shiplap

Yes as stated.

Perry, we have to match the existing house as close as possible on the exterior. If you're making any additions or renovations in the Historical District, it has to go through the Houston Historical Society (District) review first. They want to maintain the old historical look. They could care less what you do to the interior. When submitting a plan to the Houston Historical Society (District), you have to submit a plan showing the existing house in 3D (or at least elevations) too. There are several different historical districts the greater downtown Houston area and some of them have slightly different rules. A couple of builders we do plans for are mainly doing work in the historical area. These plans take a lot longer to do due to the detailing. The Historical District has commented that some of our plans are the best they have seen. (Thanks Chief). We are very good at doing these kind of houses.

Eric, here in Houston, we do a lot of work in the historical district. Most of those houses have 2x4 walls and ceiling joists @ 24" O.C.. The 2x4s are a full 2x4 thick. They have 1x12 shiplap (thicker than 3/4") on both sides of the studs and below the ceiling joists (sometimes on top too). 1/4" drywall on the inside and wood siding on the exterior. 2x4 rafters at 24" O.C. with 3/4 shiplap. 

There are several approaches depending on what you are doing for the fireplace and chimney. I don't have access to V10 anymore. I can't get the hardware lock to work with Windows 8. Would be happy to do an online meeting with you and look at your computer though.

BTW, it comes with Chief and is already in the library. Here it is explained better. Unblock it. Edit it. Re-block it. Looks like yours.

Look in the library for room call-outs. They have the look you want.

Perry, did you look at the link? Apparently no one uses it like I do but it is very helpful.

Well, I happen to agree with Doug. Back then, the macro wasn't working right which was confirmed by Doug. Now it works. Everyone can do it as they wish.

Joey,

 

You can put the Label in the Plan (per Layerset) and just use the Layout Box Label for the Scale

Doug Park has already commented that using the layout box label is not the correct way to do this. See post #17 from this link.

https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/236-x6-layout-question/?hl=%2Bscale+%2Bmacro

Joey, when I do my meeting with you tomorrow, I'll show you a good way to do this. Fast and easy.

We see mistakes all the time in plans that are from Architects. Mistakes such as dimensions not adding up, roofs that don't work, elevations that don't match the plan, etc.. We don't really say anything to anyone except letting the homeowner know of some problems with the plans provided. We never say anything to the Architect for it's not our place to do that nor do we care. We just have to make it right. If we are just modeling the plan from the Architects plan for the homeowner and find that things are not right or don't work, then we just explain that to the homeowner. If dimensions don't add up right or elevations don't match the plans, we can simply tell the homeowner to look closer at the plans.