kMoquin

Here that are as separate sketchup files.

1st zip file

Bakery_1.zip

You'll need to break out the pieces you need in SketchUp.

Chief imports the entire sketchup model and it is not editable except for materials.

17 hours ago, Ridge_Runner said:

Kevin, is this an "old school" detail you came up with somewhere or one you created? It certainly brought back some old memories from drafting classes.

Mike, I grabbed the image online.

It is really well described in the book "Get Your House Right"

The crown on the rake and the crown on the eave must be different profiles for them to miter cleanly (unless your pitch is 12:12, then they can be the same)

I don't host many remote meetings, but recently I've been using freeconferencecall.com

Awesome

Thanks Rene !

Those windows will be one of many things we tackle in this renovation / addition.

They don't build them like they used to (thank goodness)

I'm modeling an existing house for renovation and I can't for the life of me figure out how to keep this strip of siding siding from appearing on the interior wall. If anyone can offer tips or tricks I would appreciate it.

Thanks !

Existing Plan.zip

14 hours ago, DavidJPotter said:

...he wanted to pay my fee in advance but with a credit card and then I was to pay his "Surveyor" for him (this sounded totally scammy to me.)

DJP

This is 100% a scam.

The way the scam works is they pay you in advance with a forged cashiers check. You bank cashes the check. You pay the "surveyor" or other third party who is actually the scammer. Your bank discovers the forgery and deducts the funds from your account. You are out the amount you sent the "surveyor".

I had a similar interaction with someone renting an apartment we had.  I was supposed to send the balance of an over-payment to the "travel agent". It seemed fishy to me and someone at my bank explained the scam.

I voted for floor structure with the assumption that the beams wont necessarily fit Chief's automatic spacing and you'll likely manually place them.

If the beams will work auto framed I'd go with door number 2.

Good videos Eric

In the 2nd one-  another option would be to use the header settings for the doorway instead of manually drawing the beam.

Maine uses 2015 IRC

7 3/4" max. riser, 10" min. tread

I think I would model the SIP panel as part of the "Roof Surface Definition" and create a material for the framing, or place the framing manually.

On 4/15/2019 at 5:44 PM, JPBDesign said:

I talked to a Window Company today and I believe the Structural Engineer is just putting in the max numbers to get rid of the project. 

You already have one building professional whose expertise is trumped by the window supplier.

Will your architect fare any differently?

I have a layer set for operations like this - moving a house on the site or raising / lowering / rotating a house. I like to keep the building near the origin an the first subfloor at 0 elevation, so I move the terrain. The layerset makes visible all the terrain layers and hides all the building layers.

It's not misleading, it controls the representation of the top edge, the line you see is at the bottom.

If you try again with an interior door it will be clear to you.

24 minutes ago, Doug_N said:

The command to show or to hide the top edge may be a bit misleading.  It only affects the edge on the swing side of the door.  Here are some examples. 

Doug,

Your example is an exterior door. The line you are seeing is not overhead, it is below.

open door dialog box

Options Tab

Plan Display line

select "Hide Top Edge"

Here you go.

I just went in to the dbx for the room and deleted all entries for the ceiling finish and ceiling structure.

LEO PLAN 5J junk FOR CT A.plan

I use this simplified one that I made. You are welcome to it.

Fireplace Wall Cap.calibz

I did it with a shadow board and fiddled with the offsets on the shadow board tab.

I had to adjust the depth of the rake to make the gable end work.

Rake Bed.zip

1 hour ago, rockyshepheard said:

So the perpendicularity of the slope arrows is a way to check if the baseline is angled correctly?

Just make sure your "Roof, Baselines" layer is on.

I had to turn that layer on in your file to make my "diagnosis"

I'm on my second ASUS with zero issues.

Your baselines are all at odd angles.

They should be parallel to the exterior walls if you intend the eaves to be parallel to the walls.

Once you fix the baselines the roof planes should join as expected.

Have a look at this thread:

I upload them to youtube and send my clients a link.