richoffan

You can overlay a solid line or polyline and put it on the door layer

Pella Architect series is their "top of the line" windows and doors. Fairly recently Pella divided the Architect series into three subsets -Contemporary, Reserve and Traditional. Contemporary is a clean line, more minimalist look for modern design. Reserve has a more traditional look for a more historic feel in sizes, proportions, finishes hardware etc. The Traditional take Reserve to an even more historically accurate level and offer more detailing such as authentic divided lites, custom lite patterns etc. I've speced Pella (and Marvin, Andersen, Kolbe & Kolbe and others) for decades. Pella is a highly respectable company with a quality product for the money. If you have an Architect series in the correct size, finish and hardware I would wager you got your Reserve windows. Hope this helps

Oh... and as for bases, caps, recesses, flutes etc. build once and save....

The way I do it FWIW is draw the deck / porch / whatever with the deck edge tool. Then add all posts, newels, beams, brackets etc. where I want. Then draw railing detailed as I want with no newels or posts etc. and mark it no locate. Then either make deck edge invisible or put on isolated layer and turn off. Takes a little effort the first time but save elements in warehouse file or library. It does though give complete control of everything from newels to deck overhang @ rim board.

deck detail.pdf

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With nothing to go on....posted plan etc..... Just a stab in the X10 dark. Open edit saved plan view and in general lock your saved view to the relevant floor.

Agree with Scott and by extension Rene. I understand where Larry's coming from also. If the project doesn't warrant it or it's an adjacent space for context only I'm not going to waste time needlessly. If it's part of the project, especially a kitchen or millwork or some such then accuracy is critical to my designs (see pic). I've been getting highly accurate field measures long before these "tools" existed and don't feel the need to be the beta test. My laser measure is accurate to 1/16" over 20' - very good for over all room dims, ceiling heights etc. but basically worthless in a bright sun. Just don't see the value of the new toys...yet. Now, if I'm reading Ryan's post correctly, if the client's providing the field work I only care the info is usable. Standard clause when working that way:

The Client shall provide all field services required for the draftsman to perform his responsibilities including but not limited to dimensions, digital photographs, notation, and specification of existing conditions. Draftsman is entitled to rely on the accuracy and completeness of such information and is not responsible in any way for the accuracy and completeness of any reports, surveys, criteria, specification, or direction.

Don't know Gene. Many Chief "things" are a mystery to me! Some set to "0" some 1/16" and some more. I wonder if the dimension defaults for smallest fraction / decimal influence? Haven't played with that

How else would you calibrate the proposed structure is a 7 iron away from ______

I agree paper and PENCIL (old school) and of course eraser. Many tricks. Postit "flags" to catch laser beam etc. When sketched correctly, filled in with different colored ink. Different colors mean different things so picking info off the roughs to draw existing only requires a glance (after years of consistent use). Will use lasers with tape. Prefer Nikon ColorPix set to raw with date and time stamp - you can zoom in from ridiculous distances without pixilating. You can never have too many pictures and Irfanview makes sorting a breeze. Angle gauge is very helpful. Will use My Measures Pro especially if something is a pita to sketch (spiral stairs) Will input direct to laptop if conditions permit. Rare for a 4000sf highly accurate field documentation to take more than 5.5 hours ± - depends on site conditions and much less with an "assistant". No calibration included. Have a system and follow it!

Jacyna Bath Roughs 11.9.2016.pdf

Make the shapes out of fixed glass (much like making a trapezoid transom) and mull them all together. You could probably make that lower frame using a custom muntin. Or just make individual windows.

Reference Number: KB-03143

Typically, when two CAD objects share the same properties and Endpoint Snaps are enabled, they can be snapped end-to-end to form a polyline. Connect CAD Segments controls whether CAD objects with the same properties can be snapped together to form polylines. It also controls whether spline segments can be snapped together. In addition to CAD objects, Connect CAD Segments also affects stairs, ramps, and road objects. When Connect CAD Segments is disabled, CAD objects cannot connect to form polylines and the icon above will follow the mouse pointer. Select Edit> Edit Behaviors> Connect CAD Segments  to toggle this behavior on or off.

Many states have passed legislation to squash this ridiculousness. I guess the gas / oil - appliance lobby is stronger there. Try Colorado where you can't have a wood burning fireplace unless it conforms to unrealistic restrictions (EPA Phase II emissions - essentially a wood burning stove) or you are over a certain elevation, unless of course it's an exterior fireplace in which case anything goes. I've found it best to ask because the AHJ determination is SO different across the country. FAR for stairs, open below, 2.5 story foyers, porches with full foundations, interior balconies, elevator shafts, fireplaces...and impervious surface? Try getting a ruling on large pavers with grass between. Setbacks usually run to the foundation but with super insulated walls running 5 inches + past the foundation I've been surprised before even with Roxul, treated furring and thin stone veneer! I've worked on old (really old) structures where the mud sill overhangs by 2" to square up a frame over a crooked foundation. Oh and bay windows? 3 foot plus overhangs on prairie style? .....

Not much different from a timber frame layout. I use a CAD item convert to 3D solid (whether you need it or not, I think it reads better) then copy / paste and link to a custom schedule. As noted - no grouping 

001_20004 Construction Docs_Bid_21714 10012022.pdf

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Here ya go. Opened and saved for HD file in X13. Have 11 & 12 active on the working drive if you need earlier for compatibility. LMK

Fed Ave X13 comp 09132022.zip

White rock... for a rendering....for a house. You can play with the material settings, the ray trace settings, export to D5, PS Picassa ....You can contact the supplier and see if files are available. You could make and map your own material from pictures, internet etc. if the project warrants the effort

Mnf'r lib.> Eldorado Stone> Stone> Country Rubble> Select.... Plan Mat. > Scale> stretch> color> change to white

C:\ProgramData\Chief Architect Premier X14\Referenced Files\Coronado.zip#zip:SplitFieldstone_Lompoc_Normal.png ....Plan material fill pattern

I've done a lot of timber frame with Chief. It works really well but you essentially need to create the timber work. 3D solids, 3D mouldings, soffits etc. The roof beam tool in manual roof framing is your friend. For the SIPs set the roof thickness and overhang as you want and then either turn off the rafters or make them the size of your SIPs panel. Once a few basic timbers are created copy paste, copy reflect, equal spacing etc. make it fairly easy. just watch your grain direction as you will probably need to copy and rotate materialGRM timber 002.pdfPorch Timber Revised braces 4appl 9721.pdflStair Timber 001.pdf

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I have sent 3D DWG files for timber frame houses to the timber fabricator (Colorado Timber Frame) with excellent results. Related to what David said, their drafting / engineering department technical skills are first rate. 

Much less snow in Alabama than Idaho. Nice detail Gene.

Many details for this on the TJI website. If your keeping the full thickness for the overhangs you can use TJI's rim board for the sub-fascia and then build the fascia however you want. I'd shy away from wide thin boards in your neck of the woods

Clayton? Love Clayton! Used to cruise the thousand islands on vacation when I lived in the suburbs of NYC. Great place to relax. Is Boldt castle still open? Don't miss the antique boat museum. Oh and the specs on the new laptop look good too

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