Ridge_Runner

Thanks, Dermot. Like Justin, I am a long time user of Chief and did not know this method.

Don't mean to hijack this thread, but I have a design I am almost finished with and have done a framing detail on a window similar to this. Mine is not a full-height bay as the client wanted it raised up at the bottom - meaning I cannot use the floor joists to support the outside wall and roof. I was wondering how you guys design the framing to support this window. Do you use a vertical shear panel on the sides of the bay attached to the wall studs (the way I did it)? Or do you use some other method?

Thanks, and my apologies to the OP.

Mike

Merry Christmas to all and a Happy, Prosperous New Year. May you have more work than you can handle.  I'm thankful the tornados missed our house last night; went within a couple of miles. Many were not so blessed. Please pray for the families that lost loved ones.

Mike

I use it ALL THE TIME...but mostly to get a general layout of rooms (similar to a bubble diagram).

 

I then manually draw all of my interior walls...

 

I agree 100% that you should be able to break and do different shaped rooms.

What Jonathan said - this is the way I do it also. I use it for a large number of my projects. I like the simplicity of the bubble diagrams (the way I use it) but don't like the fact that they automatically attach themselves together - I am not going to build straight walls from them. I, too, don't like the fact that their shapes are not editable like other polylines. But it is a tool I use all the time.

Mike

Just frame the main roof rafters down to the supporting stud walls and do a "California overbuild framing" method, letting the porch rafters frame over the main rafters. I do it all the time.

Mike

If I'm reading it right, that pricing is on 'Upgrades', not 'renewals'.  So, no additional discount for current/active SSA subscriptions.  Let me know if I'm reading it wrong.

That's how I read it, Ben.

Mike

Nice work, Jintu. I love your portfolio on your website - tremendous versatility in your designs.

Mike

Thanks, Michael. I have struggled with this same thing for years! And thanks, Barry, for asking the question. Never thought about the layer painter. Just assumed there was no other way than "one at a time" since nothing else I tried worked.

Mike

Rich_Winsor

 

So what color is the car? It’s red, but it isn’t. It’s no color or any color. It’s basically like a chameleon; it takes on the color of its surroundings. Hope this isn't TMI.

 

Well, I stand corrected! Who would have thought "Red?"

 

Mike

Thanks, mattyt12. They look great. When I downloaded them some of the textures didn't make it. Both cars are white so I guess it was the exterior paint color. Also, on the BMW, the rear tag shows about 48" above the bumper; the texture for the tag didn't make it either. Not complaining - I appreciate the effort.

Thanks, Mike

Looks good, Charlie.

Mike

blue with gray reflections from the road

I'm with Dennis on this one.

"mattyt12" - where did you get those? 3D Warehouse? Would you mind sharing? I have an upscale mountain home in the works that those would look great in front of.

Thanks, Mike

Nice one, Jintu. I would not have thought of that method.

Mike

Rich, did you ever think about selling used cars?

OT Rich, but I wonder if the neighbors' dogs fight over who gets to claim the tree?   Good job.

Mike

Never knew that even existed; I thought it was just a break between the dbx sections for some reason. Like Wendy said, I have used a white line for years but often had to go back and edit position because it obscured another line I wanted to see. Cool.

Mike

Just like you - trial and error. I know we've had a few forum posts discussing UV mapping in Chief; this conundrum is another example of how we need better controls.

Or better visual feedback while you are still in the dbx as to what the change is going to look like without having to close all the dbx's only to find that was not what you wanted. The little teapot is a start but will not tell what it is "really" going to look like on a wall, solid, material region, etc.

Mike

Mike

Like Perry and Kevin said, "That's how I do it" for elevations.

I have much better control with a white angle hatch-filled polyline(s) on sections thru the house than any thing else. That makes the foundation show up hatched for areas I want that way when printed. And yes, I sometimes have to use the edit layout line tool, but nothing like years ago.

Mike

I don't want to open a Pandora's Box and the preference war between Apple vs. everyone else. However, my cell phone is in the process of dying and I have to replace it. In trying to think ahead, I am considering both the iPhone 6s Plus (5.5" screen) and the Galaxy S6 (5.7" screen).

My primary concern is the practical use of Room Planner on a cell phone and interfacing with a Bluetooth laser, especially the E7100i that I just recently bought for this purpose. Will they communicate effectively?

Second question is, will Room Planner functionally work on a cell phone for as-builts with its smaller screen? Is it a waste of time and should I go the tablet route (more money of course since I still have to upgrade my cell phone)?

Any input would be appreciated. I posted this on the Room Planner forum also.

Thanks, Mike

It really doesn't matter how it's done - the reality is that the Stem Wall portion of the foundation is almost never as wide as the footing..

 

Joe is correct. In my area, block is the typical stem wall choice due to the forming required for a concrete wall. This example was used because of the existing grade for this project. We do not have a frost line in Florida. The footing is designed for the psf required for the perimeter based on the soil load capacity. Same would apply for a mono-slab.

From an engineering standpoint, Jim has mentioned the key. I am one of the ones who has never seen this type of footing used. Here in southern Middle Tennessee we see all kinds of soil conditions but only have a 12" frost line. Every builder I know will use the (I call it) standard "T" spread footing with either block or formed concrete; most of our foundation walls will be block. That gives us a wider bearing area without making the stem wall thicker for less-than desirable soil conditions.

Mike

[edit] - We almost never use slabs here for Residential; crawlspace or basement areas with slab for garage poured over block or inside notched top block.

I do it like Joey's 2nd example of the turnback stairs, even on the straight ones. I take the break symbol, copy it, draw the 2-extra lines on the ends to turn it into a closed polyline, add fill, good to go. You could, of course, edit a rectangle - same end result. This method looks much more professional to me.

Mike

Some of my slow down is probably due to my video card; good for its day but it's not the fastest by any means now - 5-years old, which is a "dinosaur" by today's standards. Will upgrade at some point, but may wait and just replace workstation.

[edit] If any of you guys have a better nVidia card than mine just lying around collecting dust let me know.

I did the transparent  cross hatching  at one time,  but now I leave the OBB white fill   (I think that might be NKB norm),  but I give the white fill a semi transparent fill.....  I like it  better than the crosshatching .

I will try this method just to see how it looks and prints. I notice on my machine that when I do several solid white fills, especially for polyline shading, it begins to slow down my zooms and pans noticeably. I wouldn't call it "sluggish" so much as "annoying."

I'm not quite sure where I saw this method; I think Joey Martin. It uses a transparent hatch fill for the upper, which shows whatever is below. Much better for presentations and condocs IMO.

Mike

BIll, why exactly do you not use the stylus, is it because of lack of mouse button functionality?

That was my first thought, too. How is a stylus going to work without my familiar 6-buttons?

Mike