HumbleChief

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Posts posted by HumbleChief

  1. I thought the OP was referring to a 'flat' (looking) roof, not a roof with a visible or perceptible slope.

     

    If he was referring to a sloped roof, or a mono slope roof, then of course just slope it and be done with it.

     

    If he wants it to look flat (not be flat as that's some guaranteed future pain) then I'm not sure how to build it other than what was suggested above.

     

    I'm thinking that a monoslope roof is indeed flat - it's just not level. I think the OP wanted a FLAT AND LEVEL roof - could be wrong.

  2. From the attached picture it's really hard to say what's going on behind the fascia of the flat roof. If I were designing/building it and it truly was a flat roof or at least designed to look like a flat roof, there would actually be small parapet walls around the flat interior roof area and that flat interior roof would be filled with crickets that would channel the water to either exposed scuppers or an in-wall drain system. 

     

    The crickets would be hidden by the small parapet walls and the actual roof would not be flat at all as where I live it would not pass code as we need a minimum of 1/4" per foot fall. That's probably why the picture shows such a large fascia.

     

    If you really want a truly flat roof check to see if you can build one in your area then be ready to waterproof the heck out of it and await a call in a couple years when it starts to leak.

     

    Oh, and as Michael says you can build out of any building material you choose.

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  3. Very helpful you guys. Didn't know that Chief could build those automatically Dan.

     

    Thanks for the video Scott - that's the way I ended up building them pretty much step for step other than not really needing to set up the 45 as joining roof planes creates that 45 join automagically.

  4. Not sure what it's called and I can get it done with arbitrary base line heights and some serious customization of each little roof plane but was wondering if there was a technique out there that will make it easier/quicker?

     

    It's the little eye brow like plane on top and this plan has 7 or 8.

     

    post-302-0-25043800-1404919296_thumb.png 

  5. You can create a new material by duplicating the color of the texture directly.

     

    Go Tools...Color Chooser.

    Select the eyedropper in the bottom left hand corner of the Color Chooser dbx.

    Click on the green siding that you want to match.

    Click Create Material.

    This will save a new material to your library named with the RGB values.

     

    You can now use this for your windows.

     

    I had no problem creating a material with the same RGB values (your method is easier) but the same RGB values don't match colors without the same texture as the siding. Just tried your idea Glenn and ran into the same problem as in the OP. Joe's suggestion with the texture snip cured the problem. Thanks very much for the faster method to match RGB values - I'll use it again.

  6. Yes the siding has a texture file. I'll see if I can apply that same texture to the trim.

     

    Of course that's not going to work - siding and all that.

     

    Was wondering what others do in this situation? Just adjust the color? Raytrace colors will be different? I'll check.

     

    RT colors slightly different as well. I don't have much occasion here the trim color and the siding color are the same and it seems quite the challenge to get those colors the same.

  7. Can't remember where to save my custom glass panel railing symbol so I can access it through the 'panel' dbx for a custom railing. Defaults to fixture(interior) when saving symbol but can't get to it via the railing 'panel' library browser from there. I thought there was a directory to save it to but can't seem to get the brain to locate it this morning.

  8. You can select the roof plane and using transform/replicate raise or lower the roof plane using the z axis under the 'Move" radio button. It won't change the room height, which determines the ceiling height, but your roof will be where you want it.

     

    Or you should be able to lower the ceiling height of the affected room and redraw the roof at its new baseline height.

  9. Another short note. A lot of users (not so much on the forum) have no idea of the power underlying things like Anno Sets and Layer Sets and it's easy to forego learning those features to get going with the software. My advice is don't ignore those types of features when first learning. They are SO powerful that getting into the habit early will add immensely to your productivity.

     

    And also don't forget tech support. I rely on the forum for many many things but in a pinch the tech support is absolutely fantastic. They've helped me out of a couple of jambs when I needed quick fixes or techniques. Highly recommended.

  10. Don't know your name gwheckendorn but if you are considering the move to CA go to www.Chieftutor.com NOW.

     

    Do not pass go. Do not collect $200. Do not think this program will come easily (it doesn't seem like you're deluding yourself in this regard) and

    start studying videos now. The paradigm that CA uses is unlike any other ad you need to learn how CA does things and the sooner the better to avoid frustration.

     
    Next, bookmark this page because you will be here a LOT learning Chief's idiosyncrasies of which there are many. The help here on this forum is phenomenal and one of the things that makes CA such a value as a product.
     
    I think a lot of long time users (myself included started with CA 7) might forget what it took to learn this program and truly be proficient at it, Still waiting after many years but once you get the hang of it and re-learn your CAD chops using CA's tools it is truly a great tool for residential design.
     
    I never learned any 'other CAD' so I had nothing to unlearn but seeing through the eyes of the developers to understand why they approach certain aspects of the program the way they do took a long time for me to understand. You may be a very quick study, and I may be slow but it's not an easy program and will take some pretty diligent study but the rewards are worth it IMO.
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  11. I went back and tried to find the setting(s) that had the most effect and I couldn't get the shadow view to slow back down no matter which setting I changed. NOT complaining was just hoping I could find the culprit to help someone else out. Thanks again for the help everyone.

  12. AWESOME! Followed all the advice and all the setting and threads and it works fantastic. I don't know which setting was the culprit as it seemed most of the setting were already set to default values. I'l try a couple of setting reverted and see what cause the major speed-up.

     

    Thanks so much for taking the time to help.

  13. You could try playing with the hardware edge smoothing setting.  I think this affects some cards more then others.

     

    If that doesn't help, you might want to checkout the settings on your card itself.  There should be some kind of advanced video card dialog that lets you play with it's settings.  Also, I've seen more then one person on this forum discover that they were not actually using their good video card because it was not setup correctly.

     

    Thank KT, I'll explore when I get back to the office.