SH_Canada

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Posts posted by SH_Canada

  1. 2 hours ago, MoeGia said:

    Question 2-- Wouldn't that wall return to the foundation?  The sides have to be retained too? 

    good question, normally there is only one stair case and the one end wraps around. Fortunately the engineer caught it, it came back from the engineer with no wall either. but, he tied it in with the concrete steps which are then tied into the wall

     

    2 hours ago, Michael_Gia said:

    I don’t know what climate zone you’re in but I would have to extend my foundation walls another 54” below the bottom riser of your exterior staircase (a frost pit), and a drain.

     

    This is an interesting thing which is done here. it is technically not a foundation wall, but a retaining wall. The other thing is the basement frost wall ends at the bottom of the stair, but no one seems to require it get extended down (as now the frost wall is only 8 inches below the open air) when adding these types of entrances. 

     

     

  2. Fire rules require a roof over an exit staircase where there is a window above. For the attached, this means I need a roof over part of my "room" (not the landing, and not the left hand side staircase

     

    currently these two staircases are in one midget room, where the room height is the height of the retaining wall. so i cant just put a roof on

     

    So if I want to put a shed roof on the right hand staircase, what do you think is the best option? split the room and then do a pony wall with a railing, and I should be able to get the railing post at each end automagically?

     

    other option, put a roof on manually and raise the Z, put in two posts and a beam manually

    Is there anyway that the roof would just autobuild with a beam, or is that the responsibility of the wall? Maybe put in a wide window and hide the window layer, using the header as a beam?

     

    I also need the 4x4 posts (that hold up the roof) to sit on the inside of the retaining wall to ensure setbacks can be met. (It will be really tight) .so if this can be done automatgically that would be preferred

     

     

    I cant be the first to be doing this. I did a caport a few months ago which was similar, but there was a lot of manual work.

     

    As a bonus question, if you looks at the second screenshot below the footing stops short of the foundation wall where the stair is, is there a setting to get it to stop at the same place and/or extend past the foundation x inches?

     

    Thanks

     

    image.thumb.png.0bab7aa23a455b1bcd64ec56767f6bc3.png

     

     

    image.thumb.png.3f0446fd6211730b92cfcd3bb63966a1.png

  3. 14 hours ago, Michael_Gia said:

    Dimensioning to lumber is careless design. 

     

    I would suggest that is only the case where there is an alternate structural component not taken into consideration by the design. For instance here there are rules for masonry finishes which are not supported by the foundation. I do not see how it could be careless to follow those rules.

     

    In general here engineers care about how it gets built, and here if the engineer says it is OK, that is the last word. And pretty much anything can be engineered outside if the foundation wall

  4. 46 minutes ago, Christina_Girerd said:

    This image shows Chief's "Grass 7" which is one I often use with minor adjustments.  It is in the core catalogs/ materials/ landscaping/ grass.   I enlarged the grass area around the house to show an area more similar to the size you are working on, and then set the x/y scale in the Define Materials dbx under the Texture tab, at 200 each.  The rectangle of grass to the right is the same Grass 7 material, but at the library default of x/y scale at 56 and no blended color.  Depending on how zoomed in or out the view is, it can be helpful to adjust the x/y scale.  More zoomed out, the larger the scale. 

     

    Then the second thing I change, which you can see in the second image, is to adjust the Material Color by blending in a slightly darker shade of green.  I find the darker green adds to the realism. This view does not have any bump maps.  Those can help too, but you might first try adjusting the scaling and material color. 

    thanks. this is an improvement

  5. 28 minutes ago, Michael_Gia said:

    You should learn about the “distribute plant” feature in the Garden Bed tool. 

    yeah i watched a few videos this afternoon on it, thats what I figure the finalist may have used. created a region and then carpet bombed it with minishrubs via distribute region

  6. doing a mini subdivision and well the grass leaves something to be desired

     

    Looking through the forums I saw something a few years ago on bump maps but no details and nothing in  the doc

     

    I see one of the finmalists has some fairly good looking terrain. I think maybe he/she spread lots of short shrubs or something

    2021 Chief Architect Design of the Year Contest Finalists | ChiefBlog

     

    this is what I have so far ...needs some work

     

    image.thumb.png.dda8f4cce4db00b931a583b06d3abb12.png

     

     

  7. 2 hours ago, 152431 said:

    My materials list calculator feature only wants to calculate deck members for some reason....As if it can't even see the foundation, walls, framing, windows, or anything else that I have built.  Has anybody ran into this problem.  I am working with premier 12.  It appears as though all of the correct boxes are checked.  It's super mysterious.

     i tried the materials list for the first time last month for a covered deck, and it included everything. I used a polyline to identify the area (as it was an addition), and then created the materials list from it.