SH_Canada

the computer's locale setting might change decimal to comma, without having to code it. @TriDiWorx, is it changing it automatically for you (assuming you have a locale which uses commas)?

We are in the land of so many different conventions. Given we do metric and imperial

My favorite

103M3 is thousands of cubic meters pronounced ten three m 3

MMCF thousands of cubic feet

Sorry I should have mentioned to put that in a named macr such as floor_area

Then  put %floor_area% in the plan's default room label.

But Eric's version is a simpler way

that is some impressive detail, even went to the effort of putting two painting vertically on the one wall.

At least I get to see what the cool kids design, a nice reprieve from floor plans, roofs and stairs that I seem to do all the time.

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9 hours ago, TriDiWorx said:

1. Can I change sq m of a room label to m2?

What you learn in CA is that a lot can be done in the defaults and then you really do not need to touch it. I just did a plan where M2 were specified for each room (where normally everything is sq ft). so I put a macro in the Room label in the default settings following some I found in the forum. If you then use that as your template, you are good forever. so not sure if you can configure it somewhere, but you can certainly write a macro for it

$floorarea="\n"

$temp=owner.internal_area.to_sq_m.round(2)

$floorarea= $floorarea+ $temp.to_s+" M2"

2 hours ago, GeneDavis said:

Are you well-trained in HVAC design?  Are you being paid by the hour to do this?

I dont do design, I do as builts. I sent them off to an HVAC engineer if they need something designed, and then they do their own drawing. It seems there is bit of a market for minor interior commercial renovations in this city, and drafting the HVAC is part of the City requirements. Apparently, in talking to an HVAC engineer, there is a bit of a grey zone in small square footage commercial, where there is not a requirement for professional design. Which explains why the City wants it, but does not require engineer stamp. ASHRAE is the standard, which I believe started in the US. Interesting price difference, $4k for the engineer or $500 for the draftsman, and with the engineer, the owner risks having to do more stuff.(I can already hear what people are saying "maybe more is required". But from the owner point of view, the only thing that changed from last week are 3 walls, if people were really not "safe" yesterday, then the govt should be mandating on existing buildings)

Interesting bit of regulation limbo. 

I charge an add on, yes by the hour to go inspect, measure and draw ductwork, I just dont like to do it with polylines.

sounds like I need to go find some premade 2D CAD blocks.

I've had a couple inquires the last few weeks from commercial people leasing a new space and wanting to change a few walls. The city is requiring HVAC plans, 2D only. I've now done a couple of these simply by drawing CAD lines. But I soon realized this is a bit of a slow boat to China, and granted I'm not a huge fan of just drawing lines either, so the tediousness of it all is wearing thin.

Chief has a video on spiral ducting, but that is basically for the 3D viewing. And there is a CA Q&A, which basically says yes CA does HVAC drawings, use CA CAD tools. Not much else in the forums, or at least not in the first 7 pages in a search for "HVAC"

So a question for those that might be doing this more often than I. Are you using a bunch of prebuilt or predownloaded CADs and simply put them all together? i.e. 4" 90s, 4" 45s, 6" 45s, 6" 90s, 12",16" rectangular, take offs, reducers, etc.

I ended up with this today below

but I started to get lazy and omit the takeoffs, and was not sure what to do for the flexible pipe representation.

Any ideas would be welcome...and hopefully I hear from someone who does these fairly often.

The curves were a PIA especially the one which goes to a wider duct. The curves were basically a guess as to what the radius of curvature is and I did not spend the time to measure or go to the local HD to measure. It's one of those things where I'm not sure people care, but it would be nice to get it right.

When I looked at a sample drawing, it looks like whomever did it just put a bunch of premade blocks together, as you can see the 90 deg offset lines where the pieces connect, like I have to the left of the reception, but to the right of the utility I actually spent the time to draw two lines and two curves (instead of the polyline rectangle)

thanks

yes I have noticed the SVP changing, shelf problem, and selection problem. I thought the latter two were just me

15 hours ago, rgardner said:

You can easily make a fully concrete stair set without the lines using the stair tool.

I think though(based on other responses), if you need a concrete landing connected to those stairs, there is no way to get rid of the line connecting the stairs to the landing?

13 hours ago, Alaskan_Son said:

 

https://rumble.com/vkxqjg-tips-on-modeling-concrete-stairs-in-chief-architect-x13.html

crafty way to get the riser angled an inch, and the use of the stretch plane is handy

most of exterior front entrance concrete stairs I do here are purely for regulatory compliance to show a "proper" elevation, as such, if it is close, it is good.

If I want the landing attached to the stairs, sounds like the way is the psolid converted to a symbol for reuse

merci

thanks,  for showing the psolid way. One reason I try and use the stair/landing tools is because I find things change, and then if I use the psolids, I'd have to go in and change again.

one to three concrete steps with a landing and no railings are everywhere here. I think if I created three of them as psolids and added to by library, that just might be the best solution, or at least close enough

I've looked around but have yet to find an elegant (quick) way to create a pre/cast concrete landing and steps. Are people storing  objects in their library (one for 2 steps, another one for three steps, etc)

The quickest way I've found is to create a landing and stairs(not open risers, close bottom) and then set material to concrete, but in elevation view, you see the joining lines.

Is there a quicker way which looks good?

(I forgot to take off the nosing below)

some further testing indicates another way is to ensure the landing does not "just move" is to ensure my wall distance to other wall is exactly 39" (width of stair)

ok If I change my lower wall beside the stairs to invisible as Eric suggests, then the landing does not move. I can then change it bac to not be invisoble and the landing does not move.

Thanks eric

so it looks like my normal wall below is causing this "landing just decides to move on its own when I draw the stairs" problem.

me thinks that needs to be documented

on a side note, eric, I can't seem to play past 2:36 in your video, not sure if it is me or not, tried a few times and my internet seems to be working fine. I will try again later

ok, so tried eric's way and then the landing just "moved"

any ideas on why?

thanks

ultimately my use case is: 

set the tread depth to 10"  and try to get the riser to between 7.5 and 7-7/8", and then alter that height/number of treads) until that lands somewhere near the landing.

In theory I could also then dajjalust the landing height if for instance the riser height cam it at 8". unfortunately it's all about the inches in these small backyard suites

but seems like the better way to do this  is to set the landing, draw the stairs up from it, and then adjust the riser height/treads, then go back to the landing, all while they are connected to each other

I'll try this

i figured out why it does not snap. I set the stair to lock to the to the top floor. Even though the landing is set to auto adjust, the stairs will not snap to it

1 minute ago, solver said:

Point to Point

that started to cross my mind :o)

just thought it would work like the videos, but they seem to be the other way around (stair to landing, not landing to stair). I did notice I can snap the landing to the stair, and then move them both back into the corner

anyone know why the bumping is not working on this level?

2 minutes ago, Dermot said:

Your stair is not connected to the landing because it is overlapping the landing by 1 11/16".

but how do I get the stairs to snap to the landing, I tried moving the stairs around, but it never seems to snap to it

I have a stair landing that I need to connect to stairs.

I first created the stairs , moved to outside wall, then created a landing. Then for some reason when I move the landing to the wall it does not stop/bump to the wall, any ideas why?

So I put it into position manually, and then tried to move the stairs back and forth to try and auto connect them to the landing. Am I missing something simple here? I noticed in the CA videos the are always connecting the TOP of the stairs automagically to a landing. Is there a way to do it when the landing is at the bottom, or am I missing something simple?

I also noticed toilets and vanities are not stopping at the wall on the lower level, even if I put in a normal interior wall. something weird going on...

thanks

Not sure it matters, but this landing will be sitting 3' above the floor as the grade is 3' above the floor

danny.plan

got it, if you put the paint layer as 0" on the exterior layer, you get that behaviour. Interestingly, if you put 0" paint on the interior layer you do not get that behaviour (but you also only get it on one side of the wall)

is there something special about that wall. I do these types of walls and have not seen that. I just tested one and it looks as it should

On 8/2/2021 at 11:10 AM, GeneDavis said:

Rainscreen's the new hotness

Bugs lobbied for this as it is their new home

12 minutes ago, rgardner said:

p2p is exactly that not snapping to anything but rather going to the point you indicate with your cursor.

it seems to snap to objects... and the dimension changes if I move the wall that I drew the p2p between. see attached video

i thought I read somewhere that if there was an object in the vicinity, it did snap, but if there is nothing, then it goes to wherever you click.

slick, thanks

for those that find this post, The "options" is not available if you put the unaltered exit sign on a wall in the plan and then open up the object from the plan, but there is an "open symbol" icon next to the open object icon, that then gets you the options tab

I copied it to my user catalog from the CA catalog, and then right clicked on it in my user catalog->open symbol,the options tab was there to change it to allow it to be put on the ceiling for the next time

I'm doing a commercial as built and have to identify the exit signs and emergency lighting. When I try and place the exit sign found in the catalog on th eplan, I get the error message that it must be placed on a wall or cabinet

I know in X13, CA added the ability to add a socket to a ceiling.

is there a workaround to add it to the ceiling (or floor for that matter if that works somehow)?

the one thing I tried is putting a cabinet in the room and then adding the exit sign to the cabinet, it works but it seems kind of crude

thanks