SH_Canada

I noticed I can add/alter the dimension(I used the auto exterior below) to dimension to the footing but only if the "walls, foundation" is displayed in ALDO. If you do not display it, it does not work as it will not snap. The 3'10 wall below is p2p and not adjusted when the wall is extended (bit that is probably more my ignorance of how to dimension probably), the 11'6 changes if I move the foundation walls, or the 3'10 wall)

8 minutes ago, Kbird1 said:

Center > Point to Point  ( A-B Tool)  didn't work ?

yes that did work, thanks, I did not know that fuctionality, 

yet another great tidbit to know.might be useful for windows as well

nevrmind, i see it now when i click the dimension, 

thanks alot, been at this for awhile now and it was getting frustrting.

that little window does not show. I also created p2p dimensions from the centers, but after I click on the piles (slabs/polyline/deck footing (although the "footing" is not checked in the object properties) the p2p does not "engage" to allow me to type a dimension to move it (but maybe that is by design)

@glennw

also a good setting to know to call out the casement in a mulled unit, might be a little confusing as it then shows as three separate line items. Showing comments would then be crucial, otherwise a schedule given to the window guy would result in 3 different windows, I would speculate

I build a deck, but CA put in too many piles. So I deleted one and tried to move the other to be centered, but when I change the temp dimension to be what I want, the pile changes shape instead of moving. I tried locking center, arc, chord, same effect. I tried just bumping with the arrow keys but it stays in the 16ths. I also tried using the tab key and entering an amount, but then I would have to start doing 16ths math.

I noticed the temp dimensions picked up the edge of the pile instead of the middle, but I do not see any paramters to set for this in the temp dim defaults

I also tried to use the center tool but it does not pick up centering between the piles

Any ideas on how to do this easily?

Thanks

1 hour ago, joey_martin said:

Nope, just hit the TAB key to get to individual units.

ah thanks for that tidbit

its all about the the little things

30 minutes ago, GeneDavis said:

Usually text in the comments can do it.

yeah thats what I've been doing for the rakes

3 hours ago, rgardner said:

This is a 5026 Fixed on top set to level 1, a 2626 Fixed left side bottom set to level 0, and a 2626C on the right set to level 0 as well.  Mull the lower two together first then mull that and the top one together second.

i was actually thinking the lower would be a double casement with one side as opening, and then mull top (which would be fixed) 

22 hours ago, Alaskan_Son said:

I'm curious why the hesitation to do something that could literally be done in a matter of seconds.

well I have to go search on how to do this type of unit, I assume a top fixed window and a lower casement window, and then mull the two together.

and the customer has been altering the window sizes 3 times in the last two days, and if I recall correctly from past experience, to alter the mulled unit you have to unmull.

once he finally. really finally, no really finally decides, then perhaps. the project has been going on since april, so a bit of a long haul.  

The lite option above looks like a good for now approach, but I would have to change the description to show casement on the schedule to avoid an accidental interpretation from the window guy if he gets confused on what the customer really wants and what the plans say

I'll play with it some more tomorrow, I think I may have done the "build floor" instead of insert, but I will check

thanks all

well rebuilding the attic wall did not work, but deleting it did, to fix the siding on top of each other

well two side effects so far:

I suppose I could always move the windows back down if that is the only side effect, but not sure how to fix the other one with the siding..maybe I'll see if I can rebuild the attic wall...tommorow

1 minute ago, Alaskan_Son said:

whatever reason Chief just places one of the cricket planes up on the 2nd floor

one can only chuckle this late in the night

1 minute ago, Alaskan_Son said:

Stop doing it that way and try my suggestion.

yes examining your file now

@Alaskan_Son

your plan has one of the roof planes on the chimney floor, but not the accompanying one. Was this by design?

so i think I know why I have that ugly look on the stud on the wall I lifted up, but I cannot seem to fix the wall, it keeps springing back to landing half way in the other wall. any suggestions

2 minutes ago, mtldesigns said:

Instead of adding floors, can you just increase the ceiling height of the fireplace "room"?

thats what I did but that only gets you the three walls, as the fourth wall needs to be above the actual exterior wall, in real life

true true, but half the time I think things work, do some other things and then find out other issues related to when I did the thing which I thought worked, and then have to go back and redo on the plan before the save as

keep saving different files I suppose is the answer, but then the layout has to be checked for the right file .....

1 minute ago, Alaskan_Son said:

Build an extra blank floor for the upper part of your chimney/chase and define those chimney/chase rooms and define those rooms as Open Below

I'll admit, I'm scared to do this as the house is already done, and the customer just added this chimney at the very last minute.

wont adding a floor to a floor which already has a roof screw things up?

that(referring the breaking of the atic wall into its own wall)  worked really well (except problem at the end), just had to remember to reverse the layers.

@Alaskan_Son and I were writing at the same time

For those that find this post,

looks like this before doing 4

but any idea how to get rid of this look:

11 hours ago, ChiefUserBigRob said:

I do mine similar to this and use the caps provided in the library......

hmm how? In this post it says you cannot specify a room in an attic, and I tried as well and could not.  or were you doing a different one of the options?

12 hours ago, DzinEye said:

Not really how it's usually built though.  Usually the main wall would continue up.  Alternatively to your solution you can break the house wall at the connections with the side walls of the chimney, then open that wall section, select the roof panel, then select 'lower wall split by butting roof' and apply the proper wall types to the upper and lower sections.

so yes discovered that as well when I was doing the cross section.  I ended up removing the inner wall, and because the chimney is lower than the peak of the roof, the elevation never actually showed the now missing wall. I was going to try and put in a psolid. But your solution sounds much easier. thanks

customer initially volunteered to leave as is and he would specify when ordering, so I took him up on that offer after finding out I had to put together a mulled unit

On 6/20/2014 at 6:00 PM, Kbird1 said:

If you build the Chimney as you Build the House it is pretty painless though whether brick or ??? , didn't try too hard with this example when I tried it out a while back but you should be able to add slopes etc with "Shapes" too . No doubt someone has a better method too ?, but I could see how a "tool" would b quicker though and there'd be no need to build it as you build the house..... you could however "pull" the walls up in elevation if you forgot, using this method from the basement too I think.

 

 

here is the X5 plan which includes my "how to" to myself.

 

Brick Chimney Example_X5.plan

thanks @Kbird1 . It worked well, just have to make sure the sides walls of the chimney are not actually connected to the main wall and the no locate wall has the outside layer to the outside(i.e. follow your instruction carefully and this problem does not occur as you make the room and then move it). otherwise it looks like this with the studs showing:

and done correctly:

played around with the settings and searched the forum but did not seem to find how to create this type of window:

______________________

!                                          !

!                                          !

!                                          !

!                                          !

!====================!

!                   !                      !

!                   !                      !

!                   !                      !

!                   !                      !

______________________

Upper is fixed glass, and casement is one of the lowers, other lower is fixed

thanks

ok, forget it, found the setting for the attic wall "roof cuts wall at bottom".

But I also had to break the other perpendicular autogenerated attic wall, and then draw this attic wall through that one. Otherwise there was 4.5" of stud showing on the elevation

looks good now

I have a 4' bump out with a vaulted ceiling. Customer wants the upper gable to be on the same plane as the non bump out. So I built the bump out then added a half gable roof to create the lower gable, and then extended the little new half gable back into the house. All good, except there is no wall above the roof. I tried adding a atttic wall just inside the roof but...nothing, except it shows on the inside and stops at what looks like is the ceiling plane. Essentially I want the opposite behaviour where it draws the wall above the ceiling and not below. Anyone know what I am missing? I'm thinking this must be fairly common

thanks