SH_Canada

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Everything posted by SH_Canada

  1. I noticed I can add/alter the dimension(I used the auto exterior below) to dimension to the footing but only if the "walls, foundation" is displayed in ALDO. If you do not display it, it does not work as it will not snap. The 3'10 wall below is p2p and not adjusted when the wall is extended (bit that is probably more my ignorance of how to dimension probably), the 11'6 changes if I move the foundation walls, or the 3'10 wall)
  2. yes that did work, thanks, I did not know that fuctionality, yet another great tidbit to know.might be useful for windows as well
  3. nevrmind, i see it now when i click the dimension, thanks alot, been at this for awhile now and it was getting frustrting.
  4. that little window does not show. I also created p2p dimensions from the centers, but after I click on the piles (slabs/polyline/deck footing (although the "footing" is not checked in the object properties) the p2p does not "engage" to allow me to type a dimension to move it (but maybe that is by design)
  5. @glennw also a good setting to know to call out the casement in a mulled unit, might be a little confusing as it then shows as three separate line items. Showing comments would then be crucial, otherwise a schedule given to the window guy would result in 3 different windows, I would speculate
  6. I build a deck, but CA put in too many piles. So I deleted one and tried to move the other to be centered, but when I change the temp dimension to be what I want, the pile changes shape instead of moving. I tried locking center, arc, chord, same effect. I tried just bumping with the arrow keys but it stays in the 16ths. I also tried using the tab key and entering an amount, but then I would have to start doing 16ths math. I noticed the temp dimensions picked up the edge of the pile instead of the middle, but I do not see any paramters to set for this in the temp dim defaults I also tried to use the center tool but it does not pick up centering between the piles Any ideas on how to do this easily? Thanks bandicam 2021-08-01 13-53-35-594.mp4
  7. ah thanks for that tidbit its all about the the little things yeah thats what I've been doing for the rakes i was actually thinking the lower would be a double casement with one side as opening, and then mull top (which would be fixed)
  8. well I have to go search on how to do this type of unit, I assume a top fixed window and a lower casement window, and then mull the two together. and the customer has been altering the window sizes 3 times in the last two days, and if I recall correctly from past experience, to alter the mulled unit you have to unmull. once he finally. really finally, no really finally decides, then perhaps. the project has been going on since april, so a bit of a long haul. The lite option above looks like a good for now approach, but I would have to change the description to show casement on the schedule to avoid an accidental interpretation from the window guy if he gets confused on what the customer really wants and what the plans say
  9. I'll play with it some more tomorrow, I think I may have done the "build floor" instead of insert, but I will check thanks all
  10. well rebuilding the attic wall did not work, but deleting it did, to fix the siding on top of each other
  11. well two side effects so far: I suppose I could always move the windows back down if that is the only side effect, but not sure how to fix the other one with the siding..maybe I'll see if I can rebuild the attic wall...tommorow
  12. one can only chuckle this late in the night
  13. yes examining your file now
  14. @Alaskan_Son your plan has one of the roof planes on the chimney floor, but not the accompanying one. Was this by design?
  15. so i think I know why I have that ugly look on the stud on the wall I lifted up, but I cannot seem to fix the wall, it keeps springing back to landing half way in the other wall. any suggestions
  16. thats what I did but that only gets you the three walls, as the fourth wall needs to be above the actual exterior wall, in real life
  17. true true, but half the time I think things work, do some other things and then find out other issues related to when I did the thing which I thought worked, and then have to go back and redo on the plan before the save as keep saving different files I suppose is the answer, but then the layout has to be checked for the right file .....
  18. I'll admit, I'm scared to do this as the house is already done, and the customer just added this chimney at the very last minute. wont adding a floor to a floor which already has a roof screw things up?
  19. that(referring the breaking of the atic wall into its own wall) worked really well (except problem at the end), just had to remember to reverse the layers. @Alaskan_Son and I were writing at the same time For those that find this post, looks like this before doing 4 but any idea how to get rid of this look:
  20. hmm how? In this post it says you cannot specify a room in an attic, and I tried as well and could not. or were you doing a different one of the options? so yes discovered that as well when I was doing the cross section. I ended up removing the inner wall, and because the chimney is lower than the peak of the roof, the elevation never actually showed the now missing wall. I was going to try and put in a psolid. But your solution sounds much easier. thanks
  21. customer initially volunteered to leave as is and he would specify when ordering, so I took him up on that offer after finding out I had to put together a mulled unit
  22. thanks @Kbird1 . It worked well, just have to make sure the sides walls of the chimney are not actually connected to the main wall and the no locate wall has the outside layer to the outside(i.e. follow your instruction carefully and this problem does not occur as you make the room and then move it). otherwise it looks like this with the studs showing: and done correctly:
  23. played around with the settings and searched the forum but did not seem to find how to create this type of window: ______________________ ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !====================! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ______________________ Upper is fixed glass, and casement is one of the lowers, other lower is fixed thanks
  24. ok, forget it, found the setting for the attic wall "roof cuts wall at bottom". But I also had to break the other perpendicular autogenerated attic wall, and then draw this attic wall through that one. Otherwise there was 4.5" of stud showing on the elevation looks good now
  25. I have a 4' bump out with a vaulted ceiling. Customer wants the upper gable to be on the same plane as the non bump out. So I built the bump out then added a half gable roof to create the lower gable, and then extended the little new half gable back into the house. All good, except there is no wall above the roof. I tried adding a atttic wall just inside the roof but...nothing, except it shows on the inside and stops at what looks like is the ceiling plane. Essentially I want the opposite behaviour where it draws the wall above the ceiling and not below. Anyone know what I am missing? I'm thinking this must be fairly common thanks