brinkbart

I'd like to pick your brains on bulk symbol editing... I need to adjust the Y position (among other things) of 160+ symbols I made, and my mouse hand still hurts from editing the description for EACH ONE INDIVIDUALLY. I have exported the symbols and opened the .CALIB file in an SQLite browser, but the data for each symbol is some sort of binary. I don't even know what kind of binary it is. I have tried everything I could to convert it / figure it out. I am fully aware it may be proprietary, but does anyone know a little something about it? If I knew what kind of data it was, I could probably put together some SQLite code to modify just the values I need. Wouldn't it be great if Chief had a dedicated symbol editor? Wow, I wonder if someone could write one.... Thanks for reading all this, hope to hear your thoughts!

Sorry I'm late. If you still need this, I created one a long time ago. Edit: Just saw you said heat and fan only, no light. Whoops!

Okay I must be doing something wrong here. This all started with X10 as far as I can tell. I always manually draw/break/join my own roof planes. But now, it automatically creates extra breaks as I'm working, and I often don't notice the new grab handles until the roof doesn't join or doesn't do something I'm used to/expecting. Is there a setting for this that I'm missing? HAAALP!!!! P.S. — Bonus question: Is there a way to turn on "No Special Snapping" as a default for all new roof planes?

It was just a default Chief template. I drew a square room and placed a default door and default window. This was only for testing. As someone else said, I may have to build a foundation under it as well. It's fine, I'll just revisit ray-tracing/photon mapping when it is easy and just works all the time. And when it's faster.

I have light leakage no mater what I do. From doors, around cabinets (even on interior walls), around window frames, etc. I always thought it was because I am still using custom templates I made years ago with custom materials, custom wall types, etc., but after reading your post, I tried the default template that comes with Chief, and there's still light leaking around the doors and cabinets. I simply cannot use photon mapping.

The Scroll Doors library that Chief charges $3 for wasn't the greatest. They were only 80" H., no stretch planes, and most of the frames were too narrow for a doorknob to comfortably fit. Oh, and the "panels" were barely panels. So, I have updated them with one and two-panel options, stretch planes where possible, and duplicate versions for 80 and 96" H. where not. I won't link the .CALIB here since they do charge for it, but drop me a DM, and maybe if you can prove you own the library or something, then I can share. (Would be happy for Chief to weigh-in on this). Thanks! B

I am pumped that you guys are still getting mileage out of this package / post after three years. I feel eel like I should address the fireplace. I use it all the time. The actual firebox came from 3D Warehouse, as did the mantle. The brick course around the face is a door with thick molding (Include in Schedule is unchecked, thank you very much). The brick course (and quarter round) around the hearth are molding polylines. The hearth is a polyline solid. The walls are walls. This doesn't exactly play well with the Materials List feature, but otherwise it's legit. I keep a few fireplace setups like this in a plan file, to be copied/pasted with CAD lines for positioning. Funny thing is, with all the different object types, you (still) can't make an architectural block out of it, and you can't rotate this beast. But you can flip it. So I had to make two of each type of fireplace, one up and down and one left and right. Depending on my needs, I would just choose one and reflect it. Would be happy to share, but buyer beware, I have my own wall types, and layer names. But maybe you could find something useful in the plan!

Trying to sign up for that was the most bull I've ever had to go through. And I still don't have it. Can someone just please post the PDF here?

Wow. Haha. That is ridiculous. Any other users know exactly which buttons are the right buttons? Side note: I highly suggest, to anyone, use FireFox or Chrome if just for the AdBlock Plus plug-in alone. Totally worth it. Side benefit: no YouTube ads!

I am very sorry that has happened to everyone. I was unaware that site was malicious. Sometimes these sites show lots of "fake" download buttons to trick users into clicking them. I use AdBlock Plus, so I don't see the fake download buttons; AdBlock sees them as "ads" and removes them. Attached is a screenshot of what the site looks like for me. Completely spam-free. The real download button is the big green one that you see in my screenshot. Hope this info helps! PS. - It's just too big to host here, or even e-mail to anyone. I am planning to work on a website to display/host my offerings which will be completely spam-free. Until then, I'm afraid, we'll have to stick with MediaFire.

211 topic views. 7 poll results.

Glad you like them. If you use them, please tell me how they work for you.

Wouldn't they look the same? Just change the list entries in your materials lists. Just a suggestion.

Roscoe, will this pattern do? PREVIEW PATTERN LIBRARY ATTACHED! I've included the library so you and everyone can try it out. There are some important things to note. I know this seems like a lot, but I'm really trying to cover all the bases. If you have any questions, please PM me. GENERAL NOTES: Because the staircase treats balusters differently than rails do, sometimes there are separate symbols for balustrades and stairs. Each symbol has a suggested width and suggested spacing. Those are in the symbol name in (parenthesis) for width and [brackets] for spacing. Depending on the length of rail between newels, slight adjustments to the widths can be made. Alternating patterns include more than one baluster per symbol. Because of this, the Width and Spacing values that you will enter in the fields will not always correspond with the actual baluster or symbol width. However, the materials list will have correct baluster count and size. Symbols including more than one baluster will stretch between the balusters. They will not distort the balusters themselves when adjusting widths. Symbols including more than one baluster have a higher poly-count. Depending on your hardware, this could cause a slow elevation-to-layout. In the other libraries, there are many lower-poly alternatives than these. ALTERNATING PATTERNS ON STAIRS ARE TRICKY! Because alternating patterns include more than one baluster per symbol, these symbols were adjusted to be positioned accurately on the treads, and to fit properly between newels on a staircuase. To avoid unexpected results at first treads, the Newels at First Tread check box must be checked. If you do not actually want a newel at the first tread, set the Newel Width to 0". Normally, staircases will either cut the tops or bottoms of balusters depending on your preference. Because of this, balusters with shoes cannot use the Cut Baluster Top feature. Alternating patterns, and balusters with shoes, cannot be used successfully on landings. In the other libraries, there are many single-baluster symbols without shoes when your project requires landings. Single-Baluster symbols will work on a curved staircase, but alternating patterns will either not work, or only work (with adjustments) on one side of a curved staircase. This staircase pattern was created using an 11" tread depth. If you use a smaller tread depth, you may want to adjust the Baluster Width a few fractions to keep the spacing perfect, though it is not necessary. PLEASE PROVIDE FEEDBACK: I know I should have chosen a less advanced pattern for the preview, but I wanted to show what's possible when we think outside the box. Have you ever seen an alternating baluster pattern in Chief?? Have you ever seen shoes on a baluster in Chief? Angled shoes on a staircase baluster??? It's all doable! So now you see why I'm also writing extensive documentation to go with it! I encourage you to try this pattern in your older projects to see how well they work for what you do. Bang on them a bit. Try to come up with scenarios I haven't yet thought up. Tell me what works well and what needs improvement. I would love to know how I can improve these symbols! wrought_iron_baluster_preview.calibz

Um, these won't even touch that. Giminy Christmas, I hope that was a good collection!

Yes, I will definitely offer them. I just have to finish up first. . . Not really sure when that'll be.

I'm a symbol hoarder myself!

This is actually what I'm most interested in. I would like to open the floor to a fair price discussion. Anyone is welcome to PM me if they're feeling gauche about discussing money in the open. Also, those of you who sell symbols, any tips or advice would be highly appreciated. I am open to comradery if you are! I've never actually sold an intangible good like this before. But I'm quite proud of this one, and I sincerely hope it's useful to my friends here. Might go into business, you never know!

Great point! I am actually making sure a 4" sphere could not fit between the balusters when I do the suggested symbol spacing**. However, you can set the spacing manually, as per usual. They also stretch with rail height, so you're fine there. ** The obvious exception is the corner of the bowed baluster pictured above... but I wanted to include them, as they would be great for straight runs with walls on both sides.

Hi, guys, I am trying something new. For months, I've been working on a very extensive, high-quality library of wrought iron balusters. It includes baskets, knuckles, scrolls, bowed balusters, and twists—all in various styles and sizes. I'm even including a few wrought iron newels in popular styles. There are many alternating pattern variations, and the symbols have paintable components where applicable. The symbols have keywords attached to them for easy searching, and components for each symbol for accurate materials lists, down to the newel mounts. I've mimicked popular styles found on manufacturers' websites, but there is no manufacturer information attached to the symbols. These symbols were made from scratch to be relatively low-poly, while still providing photo-realistic renders. I've worked hard to remove all "stray lines" so that they look phenomenal in elevation view. This, in itself, is brain-wracking. I am also working on very thorough documentation, which will provide symbol and pattern specifications, symbol polygon count, and instructions for use. This started as an innocent project, and has absolutely exploded in scope to be as exhaustive as possible while still maintaining my sanity. It has taken up so much of my time, and it is so detailed that I am going to offer it for sale. I would like to get a feel for the community's need for something like this, and what you think is a fair price point. Disclaimer: When I realized I would have to offer it for sale as opposed to sharing it as a freebie, I had to ditch the symbols I got from 3D warehouse, and began creating my own. In doing so, I was able to achieve lower poly-count and paintable components. I am not very good at creating realistic material textures, so those will not be included, or, will be included as a "bonus", since I did not create them. So, if you would, please do me the honor and courtesy of responding to the poll, and please tell me how much you would be willing to pay for a library of this caliber. I have included a few screenshots of what you might expect to accomplish with the symbols in this library, and a mockup of the documentation I'm working on. P.S. - I have other great ideas in mind for useful, photo-realistic symbols that one cannot find anywhere else. I'm not talking about furnishings... Not really good at those, and there's plenty to be found online for free. I mean more like "building helpers". They would include cabinet/entertainment center surrounds, true breadboard arched cabinet doors, handrail fittings for railings (think pin-top newel under a quarter-turn cap or volute), and face-mounted aluminum/glass handrail panels. Your response here will help me gauge whether I should take on these projects![/size]

Hey, I'm not just a pretty face, Scott!

Wow. This community never ceases to amaze me. So.... that worked. Thanks, ArchiJef2000!

I am proud to present to you a set of ceiling-mounted HVAC registers, for those of you in the south without basements and crawl spaces. There are three sizes: • 4x8 (3-way louvers) • 4x12 (4-way and 3-way louvers) • 12x12 (4-way and 3-way louvers) There are two types of 2D symbols for each, depending on your drawing style: • diffuser-type symbol with arrows indicating louver direction • box-type symbol with shading indicating louver direction These registers include a box and inlet duct that reside above the ceiling. Only the register grille will be visible from within the room. For that super-realistic look when rendering, add a ceiling hole on top of each register so that the you can see the inside of the register box through the louvers. I find the result really adds a lot to a render. Known issues: • The program will not let you make a ceiling hole small enough for the 4x8 vent. Apparently ceiling holes can't be smaller than a certain size. EDIT: The program will not let you make a square ceiling hole small enough for the 4x8 vent... But you can do two triangle-shaped ceiling holes to make a square. (Thanks, ArchiJef2000!) • These registers will work on a vaulted ceiling. However, if you place a ceiling hole above them, they will no longer sit flush on the vaulted ceiling surface. If it is very important to you, you can accomplish this by setting the symbol to not be ceiling-mounted, and adjusting the rotation manually (see screenshot below for results). Any questions? Ask! Enjoy! hvac_registers.calibz

Perfect forum to ask. 1. The first thing you'll do is move your molding polyline to the back of the cabinet in plan view. 2. Next, set the height of the molding polyline to whatever height suits your cabinet setup. For me it was 85" (as shown in screenshot). 3. If the beadboard sticks out of the top of the cabinet, simply reduce the Height of the beadboard in the Moldings tab of the dialog box. 4. If the beadboard is not "thick" enough to be fully seen inside the cabinet, move the molding polyline about a half inch away from the wall. Remember to make an Architectural Block so that when you move the cabinet, the beadboard will go with it. Hope this helps! Bart

I used Sketchup to make it. My tutorial video would be like two hours long because I have no idea what I'm doing, lol.