Michael_Gia

18 hours ago, Renerabbitt said:

I have the Gigabyte Aorus and it kicks much butt. So long as your macbook has thunderbolt 3 eq. to 40mb/s.

nice to gain additional connection options for monitors with G-sync as well

Doesn’t make that much of a difference according to this guy. 

Scrub to the 7th minute mark of the video....

As a builder I can tell you the only “real” way to know what a home will cost is to send plans out to each and every subtrade and get them to quote on the job. Then you can have a true cost analysis. After that you can study and understand how each trade charges and then use this info to populate a spreadsheet based on a multiple variables, like, square footage, quantities for concrete, sheet rock, plumbing and electrical fixtures etc. 

It’s a big job. 

There is no program in the world that will do that work for you in an accurate way that will apply to how you build in your area and at what local cost for materials are. 

4 hours ago, tommy1 said:

I'll call you. there's a little trick to make that work.

Thanks for keeping it a secret. 

For the Mac OS, “Twin Motion” is the closest you’ll get to Lumion. 

https://twinmotion.abvent.com/en/

Hi all. I think the upvote button is Chief’s subtle way of telling us how to best get their attention regarding suggestions and improvements. 

I don’t see a lot of upvoting going on in the forum. 

I’m assuming most of us see it as some kind of gimmick, but if I were a Chief executive occasionally looking into my disgruntled client base I would definitely be looking at the forum and sorting by most number of upvotes. 

I try to upvote or downvote almost every post I look at, when it’s important to me. Especially in the “suggestions” forum. 

Maybe we should stop wining and use this handy feature?...

No change for me when I upgraded to Mojave on my crappy old retina MacBook 2013. 

14 minutes ago, dshall said:

 

I see a room with molding.  I bet he has called that a room,  built a foundation below and then.....  put the garage doors in the room wall (not foundation wall) and then moved the garage doors down 12"???  

 

I just tried it...  that is how he built it.

 

By George, I think you’ve got it!

I don’t know about you all, but I see the floor level in the garage as clearly higher than the driveway and bottom of garage door. That’s the first issue. 

On 4/11/2016 at 4:52 PM, Northriver said:

I design my exterior doors (In swing)to sit off the subfloor 1/2" to 3/4" (obviously supporting the threshold) depending on finish floor material at the door interior to compensate for thicker interior floor mats or area rugs that do not get hung up on the door sweep.

We need to insulate under that door, so I raise the door 1-1/2” off the plywood. I also lower the concrete landing outside by 3” to give enough space for a stone sill under the door frame.  

Montreal snow and winter precautions. 

Archicad is what you’re looking for. 

It’s the fastest and most straight forward way of working with “repeatable” plans such as row housing and multi-family buildings. 

Check out this video...

On 2018-06-10 at 11:56 PM, Renerabbitt said:

Fav part:

You have a floor plan and electrical plan, you save each as a plan view. Send the floor plan to sheet 1. copy and paste(hold position) to sheet 2. open the sheet dbx and change to the electrical plan. PRESTO, now you have a floor plan and electrical plan perfectly lined up across the pages. 

This also works without plan views by changing the anno set of the plan view in the Layout Box Specification dialogue box. 

So what’s different?

Even underneath your roofing trusses? No strapping?

3/4” furring, 16” on centre. 

 I guess it’s a regional thing. 

 Price list from my supplier, behold… 

Pre-cut studs here come in 93-1/4” so with 3 plates = 97-3/4” for when you want an 8 foot ceiling.  

Or for 9’ ceiling we use pre-cut studs of 105-1/4” and then when you add 3 plates = 109-3/4” for a 9 foot ceiling. 

For 10 foot ceiling studs are cut at

117-1/4” from a 10’ stud, so ceilings are  121-3/4”. 

I thought this was standard across North America...

Isn't it?

I always try to place the “0” origin somewhere near the middle of my house/building. 

What is truly the best practice for this?

Or is it not that important so long as he origin is somewhere close by?

Seek out the one they call Scott Hall...

Youtube + search slab or foundation etc. 

Unfortunately you’ll find that you can’t control that level of detail with Chief. 

Just use auto detail and manipulate the fills to represent what you need. 

Thank you Glen. 

I blame the American and Canadian lumber industry for not switching to metric as the real culprit for keeping North America in the Middle Ages with regards to this subject. 

maybe one day...

This is true. I wish we worked in metric. So much cleaner and easier. Oh well...

They only ever use metres or millimeters on a plan, and you always know which is which at a glance. 

For example, you know by looking at a dimension if It’s metres because there is a comma separating the decimal portion and usually 2 or 3 decimal places, as in 10,34 for metres. 

When it’s in millimeters there is never a comma or decimal place and only a space for thousand separaters. Example 2 354 for millimeters. 

Such and elegant and precise way to operate that is universally understood and you get the level of precision of a millimeter (approx 1/32”) without messy decimals or fractions!

Yup, put one kitchen block on layer called “kitchen A” and the other kitchen on layer “kitchen B”, for example. 

Then you could switch them on and off as you like. 

Or save views with one on and the other off and show them side by side. 

Important to keep them as blocks though. 

10 hours ago, parkwest said:

 

Could you make symbol blocks of your different kitchen designs and save them in your user library?  Then you could just swap in and out the different designs until you get the one the client likes?

 

If you wanted to, you could draw one big room and set up a virtual kitchen design center and place all your kitchen design options in the big room and rotate around from kitchen design to kitchen design.

Why not just put each kitchen block on a different layer and turn them on and off? Keep them placed in the same kitchen. 

Ok so that’s the challenge then. 

Somenody post a simple “test” plan with a few lights. Save a “test” view and set the “test” raytrace settings and hit raytrace. 

The raytrace setting should be set to number of passes, maybe 10, only, so it’s not too long of an excercise. 

Someone should post a plan with a fixed view and raytaced scene and then we can all report back on how long it took to render 10 passes on our systems. 

Post screenshot of completed number of passes which also shows the Raytrace in question. 

Wouldn't this be the best bench mark comparison?

Of course post what system you used if it’s different from your profile description. 

...and be honest. 

Chief just has a hard time snapping to a lot of things. It’s random as well.

Sometimes it snaps sometimes it doesn’t, regardless of dimension defaults. 

It’s worse in elevation or cross section views.  Try snapping a dimension to a window height.... lots of aggravation and frustration. 

I’m forced to draw lines and set them at the height I need and snap to those lines. Although the story pole tool has helped greatly in this regard. 

Here’s a schedule....

(Oops, looks like I forgot one window label macro)