-
Posts
1249 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Everything posted by Michael_Gia
-
Setting Stem Wall Height in Build Foundation dbx...?
Michael_Gia replied to HumbleChief's topic in General Q & A
You we’re violating that dumb “minimum stemwall height” in the foundation wall default. Not sure why they even have this. Everyone seems to want to enter their stemwall height there and that’s not the place to do it. Did i find the fly in the ointment? -
Setting Stem Wall Height in Build Foundation dbx...?
Michael_Gia replied to HumbleChief's topic in General Q & A
1) First go into your foundation wall defaults and set the minimum stemwall height to 0. 2) In the 0 floor level default set your rough ceiling height that you would like. For the stemwall all you have to do is add your rough ceiling height plus your floor thickness to give you the exact stem wall height that you’re looking for. With no space underneath. -
Setting Stem Wall Height in Build Foundation dbx...?
Michael_Gia replied to HumbleChief's topic in General Q & A
I didn’t open your plan so probably shouldn’t be commenting but whenever I have this kind of situation the culprit is almost always a dumb minimum stemwall height that I had set in the foundation wall default. Check that first. Also check your floor structure on the foundation and make sure there aren’t varying floor elevations and/or ceiling elevations. -
That was a pretty lame demonstration. I usually enjoy Chief's video demonstrations and watch all of them. Even though they’re intended for new users I always pick up a new trick or two. This one seemed rushed and sparse in content.
-
I use: Go to floor 1 (doesn’t really matter witch floor) Make sure “All On Set” Layers is selected (and make sure everything is “on” in the layer settings). Edit -> Edit Area all floors Zoom extant to see all Make sure to have “Select Intersected Objects” selection tool (just in case) Draw a marquee around everything Select Reflect About Object tool Reflect about a cad line that you have already placed at the point on the plan that you consider the center. I also create mirrored copies of plans when I do Appartment blocks or Semidetached homes so I can copy and past in place a mirror of a completed unit. I find this easier than trying to mirror within the same plan. Not sure if anyone else does this. This is especially important for stairs because mirroring a staircase with winders or several different landings is not so easy. I find it more straight forward to have both plans open at the same time in a split screen and past back and forth between the plan and its mirrored version.
-
Ah!
-
What’s the cad block you assigned?
-
alternating post to beam post to rail railing
Michael_Gia replied to DianeP's topic in General Q & A
Couldn’t you just make one complete section, post-rail-Column, save as symbol? -
Best bang for the buck is online training with one of the gurus on this forum. If you are already somewhat proficient with the basics, that is, you’ve already completed your first project. The guys on this forum are in your shoes, they see things from your perspective and have had to come up with work arounds for the several Chief quirks. Quirks that a Chief trainer won’t really mention. This is the one problem I have with Chief training videos in general, and that is everything always goes according to plan...no pun intended.
-
Here’s a video of a dude doing a lot more with P-Solids. More complex than what you’re trying to accomplish but it will teach you about rotating symbols and stretch planes and the effect they have. Look up creating symbols in Chief Architect on YouTube, there’s a lot on there.
-
Convert to symbol. Look up how to add stretch planes where you need them. Add to library.
-
Generating roof pitch and window dimensions
Michael_Gia replied to akabuilder's topic in General Q & A
If you have a window schedule placed then your windows will show the window label and not the default size as label anymore. Maybe this is what OP is referring to? Of course you can always uncheck "Use Callout for Label" in the Schedule DBX, but then the Schedule would kind of be meaningless. -
Dont mean to hijack the thread but yet another reason to have the option to create construction documents from the plan file.
-
Export as Collada. Import to Sketchup and select merge coplaner surfaces.
-
Where is the fireplace tool now in X11?
Michael_Gia replied to DavidJPotter's topic in General Q & A
We’re not even allowed to build those fireplaces here in Montreal anymore. Against code. -
I’m surprised that textures are not as taxing as I thought they would be. This is probably why the Standard View is even snappier than Vector View. Puzzling since most other softwares of this type tend to bog down when you add bitmap textures to the model.
-
These issues are almost always because you have varying ceiling heights lurking somewhere. A closet, hallway, or some weird forgotten inadvertently created room from stray invisible walls. First go through and check your floor and ceiling height defaults. Check your foundation and minimum stemwall height default. Use the Match Properties tool to ensure uniform ceiling heights everywhere. Of course you are allowed to have varying heights in a plan, but if you do, you need to match those rooms areas above and below with invisible walls so they can be adjusted independently from the rest of the rooms on a given floor, otherwise you will get the kind of results you got here.
-
How To Use and Customize Windows In Chief
Michael_Gia replied to HumbleChief's topic in General Q & A
Love that niche tool. -
I think Chief’s “Standard” View with shadows, reflections and “edge smoothing when idling” is the way to go for construction documents. Or even the water colour with line drawing on top. Fast, not fuss, automatically updateable. Set and forget. If you really want to have something to impress clients you need to export out to programs like Lumion or Twin Motion. Cheesy Raytraces are too time consuming for what they produce compared to these other rendering dedicated softwares, why bother? My two cents.
-
Gaps in Boxed eaves and between double fascias
Michael_Gia replied to Michael_Gia's topic in General Q & A
Perfect! Thanks a million. I guess I’ll simply set the roof overhang back the thickness of the shadow board so that the dimensions to the front of the shadow board indicates my desired overhang. Credit to Chief for even having this many features attached to a roof. -
Gaps in Boxed eaves and between double fascias
Michael_Gia replied to Michael_Gia's topic in General Q & A
Hey thanks for the exploratory video. That’s right the gap I’m trying to fill is the front boxed eaves on those gables. I don’t have a problem with closing them and maintaining the double facia on the front of the Gables but then I lose the double facia on the side just adjacent to those boxed eves. You did make me rethink how I’m using the shadow board. If you notice I have it set back with a negative value. That’s because this is how we build them up here in Montreal. When we build a double facia we always leave the main facia where it is as it comes in from the truss manufacturer and then we tack on a second 2 x 6 to the back of that facia. This is why I have my shadow board behind the facia in Chief Architect -
Gaps in Boxed eaves and between double fascias
Michael_Gia replied to Michael_Gia's topic in General Q & A
If I do that then I loose my double fascia on the front of the gables. I can't seem to get the double fascia and a nicely closed up boxed eave on the front. P-solids to the rescue. Unless there's a smarter way to use a frieze instead? Maybe reverse the order of the shadow board? That is, a shadow board and offset it to act as the fascia. -
Gaps in Boxed eaves and between double fascias
Michael_Gia replied to Michael_Gia's topic in General Q & A
If I set my eave fascia to 11" (2x5.5") then this closes up the boxed eave nicely but then I loose my shadow board. -
Gaps in Boxed eaves and between double fascias
Michael_Gia replied to Michael_Gia's topic in General Q & A
Yeah, I was able to close the gap between the Shadow board and the fascia as well by changing the vertical offset to 5.5". I had mistakenly set it at 6.25" for some reason. The boxed eave gap on the front gables is still a mystery. I've tried quite a few setting changes with no success. I can always slap a p-solid on them, no big deal, but I'd like to understand if these boxed eaves are controlled somewhere. -
Hi again, What controls the boxed eave construction? I created a double fascia by adding a shadow board. Now my boxed eave doesn't come all the way down leaving a gap. Also there is a space between the fascia and shadow board. How can I close this up?