Jay_on_Cape
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Posts posted by Jay_on_Cape
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Errrrr..........WOW.
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Hello Capehouse,
I'm tied up for a week or so but if you get in a real jam and it's still open after then let me know. I'm now in Fairhaven but am down in the mid-cape area quite frequently.
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See if this helps. I changed the main wall layer on one of the walls.... I really don't know what I did, but it looks better.
Do I get a cookie or dog biscuit for posting the plan with a picture without being asked?......
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See if this helps. I changed the main wall layer on one of the walls.... I really don't know what I did, but it looks better.
Scott,
Thanks for looking at it! I couldn't open it because I'm still in X7 but I'm sure I'll get X8 running this weekend. Your comments made me look at main layers and on the SIP wall I didn't have an exterior layer so I bumped the siding to the exterior layer and it works. Thanks again!!!
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Hello All,
I've never run into this problem before. I'm drawing a post and beam with sip panel barn. It has a dormer which will not have sip panels so the dormer wall at the corner where it meets the sip panel gable has an issue with the siding meeting at the corner. I originally defined the posts layer as an exterior layer but moved it to an inside layer but that did not help.
Does anyone have a suggestion?
Thank you.
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I never had this happen til X8. Now I can't use this feature any longer or every time I do, it looks like that. Need to send in a bug report. I will as soon as I get a chance as well.
Joey,
This is actually X7 and I've had this happen for way more than 1/2 dozen versions. I was just wondering if there is a cheat method short of cad lines like I used to use.
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Hello All,
I know this has going on for quite a few versions but has the maximum contraction setting been fixed so it only jumps the set amount? I have in this picture winders checked with maximum contraction set to 4" so it will only jump to inside of the wall not across the hall. Is there a trick to get this correct short of getting rid of wall on left or doing stairs with cad blocks?
Thanks.
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Stu, I'm down the road from you in Fairhaven if you can't find anyone.
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I'm in MA. Fairhaven to be exact.
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Whole house energy calculations. Runs through a state agency for approval before getting approved by the local jurisdiction.
Sounds like Rescheck.......
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What is T24? Is it a more stringent type of Rescheck?
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Okay thanks.
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Hello All,
I don't have access to the beta forum but I have a question. Has anyone tried to copy a wall definition and tried to rename it and have the new name stick?
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Sapphire is more than a viewer. It is a whole house design program. I'll ask our lumberyard who uses Sapphire on Monday if they can export something.
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The rough opening setting is for each side. If you want a 1/2" bigger RO make it 1/4".
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Where are you located? You probably want someone located in your general vicinity so they know local construction techniques.
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Pitch of the shed roofs should be raised to hit the main ridge. I would model it as a 2 story and the fly rafters on the gable ends make it appear to be a 1 story w/ shed dormers.
I did run across one the other day that looked like yours and it was 2 story framed and the steeper roof was framed separately above resting on strongbacks over the ceiling joists.
like this -
I wouldn't frame it to the ceiling joists. You are then adding dead and live load to the ceiling. If you stop the upper roof and leave it on a plate on the lower pitch roof you are just adding a slight dead load to the roof and no extra live load as the lower roof would have the live load there already whether or not there is an upper roof....
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In this area (see signature) this is somewhat typical. The somewhat would be that the roof overhang you have on the gable would extend across the back in lieu of the flared shingles. The roof would also have a 4" pitch or greater which would be accomplished by dropping the eave on the roof so that the window trim would touch or actually be a part of the frieze. I suppose technically it isn't a dormer but in my area (home of the Cape Cod style) no one would correct you if you called it a Cape.
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I'm located south of Boston. I've been using CA for about 18 years now.
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Well unfortunately I haven't downloaded X7 yet so I couldn't open it up. Looking at your picture and what you state I take it you want the rafters on the 1st floor wall (1st picture) not on a plate on the 2nd floor system (which is typical around here - Cape Cod). Just multiple select all of the roof sections you want dropped and drop them the correct amount until the birdsmouth rests on the 1st floor plate.
Keep in mind if you do this you're moving the headroom in from the outside wall about 9"-12" inches (depending on pitch) each side affecting full height ceiling square footage. Also it looks like you have a door going between sections? Will it still fit if you drop the roof system to the 1st floor plate?
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Glenn,
Even though I couldn't imagine doing so, why would you prefer starting from the top if you build the model from the bottom? Since I've never done it this way you may be able to shed some light on this.
No, as I am located near Cape Cod most of my homes are Cape Cod style or a gambrel / beach style home. The levels are usually simple (rarely more than one floor height per floor). I couldn't even guess the year of the last plan I drew with a split level entry.
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Me thinks there are numerous ways to do almost any single chore in CA but sometimes some users outsmart themselves. I always "try" to nail down ceiling heights with the customer before I even start a project and with my structural background I usually know the depth of the floor system so those surprises are usually rare.
If changing the floor height of a second floor I would always change the ceiling height of the first floor not the 2nd floor floor. If changing the depth of a floor system on a 2 or more story I would change the framing depths / floor structure and group select all roofs above 2nd floor subfloor and raise them whatever depth increase. To me this method is very easy. Everything moves but roofs above 2nd floor subfloor.............
Whenever any change regarding ceiling / floor heights or floor system depths if you follow this rule you'll eliminate a lot of thinking and even more repetition of work.
Start any modification as close to positive 0"(top of 1st floor sub-floor) as possible.
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I've been seeing the "top down" comment thrown around a lot lately.......... Scott help me out here as I've only been using the program since version 4.....What are they talking about???? CA is just like you frame. 1st floor first, 2nd floor (or roof) second, etc.
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I use 2d lines rarely in plan view. In cross sections I use them quite a bit to make the CA model look like it will be built.
Best way to learn the business?
in General Q & A
Posted
When I became concerned about structure and starting drafting a lot of engineered wood floor systems I took week long classes put on by some of the EWP manufacturers. Most are online now. Look at the APA website they offer "Wood University".
http://www.apawood.org/
When you can calculate loads and load paths you can calculate your projects so there are hopefully no surprises when you send it off to an engineer "if needed". The only time I send anything to an engineer for gravity loads is if a specific building inspector requires it.
The drafting part will probably be the easiest to learn, the structural stuff is the next easiest. Lastly is the design talent. That takes a little more natural born talent.