Jay_on_Cape
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Posts posted by Jay_on_Cape
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Anyone else have the privilege of experiencing the old "truncating text" phenomenon in X10? I'm using X10 with the Chief Blueprint font. I lucked out and it went away for a few versions but it's baccckkkkkkkkkkkkkk......................
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One of a litany of framing complaints I have. I am absolutely mind boggled when I hear people on this forum who say they "set everything up correctly and it's perfect for the auto framing"....said all who have never framed a mailbox never mind a house.
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On 3/27/2018 at 10:02 AM, anvl369 said:
How do I edit the post title..???
If you're the post originator click and hold the title then it will let you change it.
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9 hours ago, solver said:
Group select the windows on each floor. Make the change. Click the window icon, shift select.
Mulled windows are a problem -- they need to be unmulled.
They don't need to be unmulled.... Just select each individual window and change then do the other one. It saves typing in all the info for the whole block again.
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I trace a line around the outside of the frame of all living area and assign it to a layer I created called - "A hidden lines". I put an A in front of all layers I create so they're on top of the list. If you select the line it will give you the square footage. For the 2nd floor that "polyline" doesn't include any attic eaves area, open to below area or the stair opening. When I'm done putting the numbers from the living area to my title page on the layout I turn off that layer.
I do this with garage area, covered porches and decks. I charge all at different rates.
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20 hours ago, audioresearch said:
I've created a floorplan in a jpg file plus an extensive .txt file describing a residential home.
I'm looking for someone to put these into Chief Architect & have it output a set of construction docs. The house will be built in Massachusetts, probably in the general area of Plymouth.
I've designed a bunch of plans that were built in Plymouth. A word to the wise. The Plymouth inspector has a bug up his...........and requires all garage doors to have a seal on the "design"............Specify an APA portal wall design and provide detail from said APA??? Nope, not good enough. He wants that page sealed because it's so rare to see garage doors.........sorry, can you tell I'm a little annoyed?
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4 hours ago, dshall said:
Plymouth..... I will be driving through Plymouth October 8th on our two week New England Road Trip to see the colours change. I doubt I will have time to finish up those plans for you but there are plenty of folks around here that can probably help you out.
If you have a moment when near Plymouth chime in. I'll buy you a coffee, or drink on the bay!
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Biggest advantage of I-joists is warranty call backs. I-joists don't shrink. The lumber yard most of my builders use pre-cuts the entire floor package. Everything is cut and labeled. The framers just have to cut rimboard.
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Most of the building departments in my area require either PDF files you upload or 11 x 17 paper plans.....I haven't owned a plotter in 9 years.
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Hi Greg! I see you're a fellow Massachusetts Irish lad...... I'm fairly local to you in Fairhaven about an hour from Waltham. Talk to you soon.
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Jim, He posted in the services section himself a week or two ago. It's almost impossible to find someone in this area willing to work for someone else that is worth anything at all. The ones available are freelancers and don't want to be tied to a 9-5.....
I can name 1/2 dozen companies on the Cape and south shore that have a perennial ad looking for the same.....
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We always use PT plates in contact with steel as the steel will induce condensation. I'd run the plate flush with the edge of flange and run an "L" up the face of the PT and under the steel flange. Whatever siding you use attache it to the flashing in a bed of sealant.
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Set ceiling height to 980mm and build roofs. Then change ceiling height to 2700mm and ceiling will show the correct height. They call it a "story and a half" in my neighborhood....
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Gary,
You might want to edit the title specifying Massachusetts. Otherwise you'll get a bunch of people with slab on grade / roof truss with stucco experience replying. Yes, I did read you put Boston in your paragraph but they usually don't read that........
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Thanks Michael and Mike!!! That's exactly what I did a little while ago. Seems to be holding out for now. I'll have to keep that in mind in the future. It hasn't worked that way in X7 or before. I wonder which version that started popping up in??
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Maybe someone wiser than me can explain a workaround but why would you want to do that? To badly paraphrase Bobby Fuller......if you fight Chief the Chief will win....
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They both should be full height walls. Neither side of the roof is cutting off the walls but something is making the walls stop below the adjacent to it. It's kicking my butt. I never spend this much time on something simple like this but absolutely nothing is working. I even replaced the roof that seems like it was cutting the walls but shortly after the new roof was cutting the walls as well even though the roof is NOT over the walls........
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Hello All,
I'm migrating from X7 to X10. This is my first plan in X10. Could someone tell me what I'm setting up wrong in X10 as far as the two 2nd floor dormer walls getting cut off. In all other versions of the program they wouldn't. I think I've tried every combination of setting including trying to manually drag up the wall but still nothing......Is there something obvious I'm missing that needs to be set up implemented in the last few version? Thanks.
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On 6/19/2018 at 6:56 PM, joey_martin said:
I don't think I have manually framed a floor in years.
Really? I couldn't ever imagine drawing something that was set up without manually moving items. I move joists for tub drains, toilet drains, under plumbing stack walls, LVL's at stair opening, all flush beams.....too many more to mention.....
I set the o.c. spacing at 96" (in CA you can't set it higher) then autobuild so it will build the sill plates and rimboard. Then I delete all joists (less joists to delete @ 96") and put them where they will be framed in the field.
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On 5/26/2018 at 7:00 PM, craboulas said:
It just seems silly that the default behavior doesn't subtract flooring, where you would never lay flooring.
Depends on where you live. In my area (Massachusetts) I have never seen anyone put in the cabinets before the hardwood. Tile yes, hardwood no. I installed kitchens for 5 years as a sub-contractor and I never installed a kitchen over sub-floor before hardwood.
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I've been using Time Stamp for about 15 years.
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Cough, cough......control freak who is looking for reason to stiff you final payment but first must satisfy their ego by dragging you through the mud to show their "superiority"......cough, cough.........
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Which version of Home Designer did you purchase? It wouldn't hurt to post a copy of the plan file so people can get an idea of what they're up against. How far from Boston are you?
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4 hours ago, ericepv said:
Here's a project I just finished. With the exception of 2 imported materials (grass & mulch), everything was modeled and rendered in X10.
Eric, Where did you import those textures from?
Truncated Text (X10) redux........
in General Q & A
Posted
What especially annoys me about this is the following..........You get a plan the way you want it. Hit save then close plan. It should open in the same state it was closed in. Open it up and your text is 1/2 gone......... BTW this plan wasn't brought forward but the profile plan was from X8 and completely blank with no text so it's any profile / or plan brought forward this could happen to. I don't need help looking amateurish.....I can do that quite well by myself....