country

I have all my schedules as CAD details. I send them to layout, place and size. They never change after that other than updating.

I have also used Dropbox for years. Even if my internet server is down, the files are still available and they just sync when everything is back running. I do have to open Dropbox on my laptop to get it to sync the cloud storage files created on the desktop so they are stored there too.

Thank you very much Mike.  I seem to be doing more and more small commercial so I'd better find more of these items on my own but it does seem to be a challenge sometimes.

Is there anything like this available or do I have to bring something in from sketchup?  I have hunted through the library and chieftalk but I find my idea of proper wording is not what works in search.

Just thought I would ask before having to import something.

I do not copy and paste the actual garage plan. I make a copy of the garage plan and then turn the garage into a "symbol". You can then place that symbol anywhere on your site with the house. If the site is properly drawn for the house you simply adjust a level area for the garage and move it on the z axis to the exact height.

I find this works real easy for me on city lots that require a separate permit. The entire garage plan is a seperate plan & layout.

I know how to add the garage to the actual house plan but I find this works so much easier that it has become my go-to method.

BTW. Keep both plans in the same folder and you can copy the site from the house drawing and use it with the garage layout for Con. Docs.

Because all of my detached garages are a seperate permit, I do a seperate plan. You can then copy it, create a symbol and put that with the existing house for a visual and the site plan. Very simple and easy for the permit drawing.

As Michael said, a very good suggestion Alan. A few of my layersets are getting revised at the start of the week.

I'm not even sure at this point what I need...... This upper set of stairs is over another set going down to the basement. They are mounted between walls and I am only having a problem with the section closest to the entry that will be extended out over a sloped wall to finish underneath and have a railing that extends up and stops at the 2x6 bearing wall. I will have a look at all of these posts and try to work it out. Too many jobs and not enough time right now!!!

Thanks very much for all the great input.

This plan is my afternoon project so I will try the landing method and see how that goes. This is a pretty standard set of stairs so I am surprised it is not easily modelled.

I'll try that Richard. I cannot get the winder method to work and have some time on this job to try fixing this on my own.

Thank you.  I'll give that a try.

Is there something simple that I am missing? I have a 2x4 wall under the stairs to close off the basement level but I would like the 2x6 wall to continue right through with the handrail stopping at it.  I have tried reshaping the wall but the stairs still cut it.  i will post the plan later if necessary but am hoping someone can point me to a video or thread that I cannot find.

Sherin Stairs.pdf

Sherin Stairs2.pdf

Sherin Stairs3.pdf

If you have the view as "live" turned on and then move the camera for the next view the first one will update and have the same view as the latest one. You need to do seperate camera views if they are live.

Or you can change the floor level that you draw the terrain on.

You will only get the terrain clipping if the terrain is drawn on the same floor as the overhang.

This option is not always possible though - because you may want the terrain drawn on the same floor as the overhang.

But keep in mind that the floor you draw the terrain on has no bearing on the height of the terrain.

You can draw the terrain on level 4 but have it display in 3D so that sits at the same height as level 1 floor.

Thank you Glenn. What a simple solution to something that was a major irritation with my exterior renderings.

It would be nice if we had some label options then for each section instead of a length that isn't a dimension☹️

It would appear I have to put them in manually (with an invisible line dimension as Chopsaw suggested) if I want them on the outside of the property lines. Side setbacks and existing tree locations are just too tight and the dimensions on the right side and bottom get in the way. I thought there would have been an ability to move/locate those dimensions just like regular dimensioning.

My preliminary site was very simple on this job so I just used a closed poly and coverted it to a plot plan.  I see that polys also dimension on the inside and top of line at the right and bottom, so that must be the issue.  I will just redo using the site plan method but would have thought a plot plan would have all exterior dimensions.

Is there some way to get the plot plan dimensions to display on the exterior of all sides? When I turn on display length, the right and bottom dimensions always default to the inside and they do not have handles to move them.

It probably means there are too many lights on or you have a symbol with a high surface count. I always turn all lights off and the just turn on the ones in the scene.

I will also give that a try for the side walls. I really thought the back wall should work right across with the split wall (abutting roof) because I'm sure I have done it before in a similar situation.

Every 2 years is it for my budget.

Thanks Eric. I may have to do all those sections that way but it never looks quite right for the corners. I still do not know why the split wall doesn't work so I'll send it in for support to look at. I was wondering if I should do an attic wall for those 2 side sections. May give it a go and see if I can get that to work.

Perry.  Maybe I'm an exception but I absolutely hate shopping   I'd rather go fishing

I would like the upper walls on the back false dormer to be shingle and the lower section siding.  The back wall worked on one side and then didn't on the other.  I selected the option in the wall "roof section" to have a siding wall below if cut by roof but ???  I have tried dragging portions and moving the roof too.

I will also need the side sections of this upper wall (false dormer) to be the same.  I have tried a couple options but nothing seems to work.  I considered a pony wall but that will not work on the side walls.

Sherin 1.zip