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I have designed a very large deck and the client wanted to take 2' off in one direction and another 3' in the other. I have custom framed the deck framing per the engineer and don't want to change the framing. The problem is that I need to rebuild the deck in order to not show the decking from overhanging the framing. Is there a way to just rebuild the decking and not the framing of the deck itself. as you can from the rendering shown below you can see that the decking overhangs the decking. Everytime I rebuild it it changes the framing per CA.
I am having a difficult time with the framing of the rafters; in regards to birds mouth specifically. I am looking for assistance as I have tried many different options in aligning them to the beams. Please help me! I'd greatly appreciate it!
Ps, I only began to notice the difference, when I changed depth of hip rafters to 3.5".
I have created a number of different wall types to show proper dimensions (i.e. when one side of the wall is 5/8" Type X and the other side is 1/2" drywall) as well as to calculate the correct material counts and to show the proper information in the schedules. Unfortunately doing that seems to have a down side...it changes the framing as if they were separate walls instead of the same wall with different materials on them. I have seen the following side effects (colors refer to screenshots below):
(Green Arrow) In unfinished rooms such as an attic storage space which only has a subfloor but no drywall, the walls get pushed up into the rafters by what appears to be 3". (Red Arrows) The floor joists and top/bottom plates are cut in the middle when they should be continuous pieces of wood. In addition, you can see that the walls which are produced are not boxed at the end...the top & bottom plates stick out at the end. (Purple Arrow) Parts of the gable wall are not created. In this case you could argue that it is not needed, but if a builder makes a wall he is not going to leave a hole in it. (Blue Arrows) An extra stud is added to a room that has no drywall, and therefore doesn't need nailer studs. In addition, it looks like the other stud needed as a nailer for the finished room in the middle is missing from the plan view of the framing (see 2nd screenshot).
Am I doing this all wrong (creating separate wall types), or is there a way to use them and fix (any of) the issues I mentioned?
Thanks in advance for any help!
PS - I am a little surprised that the wall finish is not part of the room settings (like the floor & ceiling already are)...that would allow you to have continuous walls and still have different materials in each room (i.e. greenboard in the bath, 5/8" type X in a garage, unfinished in an attic, etc.
Example of Wall Issue.plan
After sending this plan to my engineer he has requested several things that are list in the pdf files.
I can not combine framing layer 4 and 2 that are basically the same wall but separated. With the headers that the engineer is suggesting I will have to raise the ceiling, roof and trusses. I also need to have a soffit retained over the entry for lighting but have the outside ends match with no boxed soffit. The are layers in the wall that appear as shapes in the drywall that I cannot seem to find or eliminate. The windows cannot be lowered since the closet ceiling and the closet roof limit the movement in the wall. I have drawn red lines for the framing that the engineer has requested but can't place the framing on the same layer. I would appreciate any insight on how to accomplish this so I can get it back to him for review and have accurate details for the layout and city plan review.
Megale Center Plan 2.7.20.zip
2nd Wall Layer 4 Megale Center Plan 2.7.20.pdf
Megale Center Plan 2 2.7.20.pdf
Megale Center Plan 2.7.20.pdf
Wall Layer 2 Megale Center Plan 2.7.20.pdf
Wall Layer 4 Megale Center Plan 2.7.20.pdf