DzinEye

5 minutes ago, kwhitt said:

I just ordered a new computer with the RTX 3090 card

What?!?!?... I thought I read in one of your posts several weeks ago that it turned out your current card was good?  I guess I missed something there?

I have been using X13 for just practice stuff, but a little afraid yet to bring over my X12 projects.  It's good to hear you haven't had many issues...but then you also have a pretty powerful machine already even without the 3090 card.  

On 8/1/2021 at 11:17 PM, AmritMa said:

How can I create slopped parquet as shown in the figure..I have tried using roof plane but no success.

You are not using the correct terminology, as there are no parapets visible in your picture, so it makes it difficult to help.
You can make roofs like what you circled using the roof tools in Chief.  Look for how to build a HIP roof.

If you wish to get the hip roof caps to stand out more like in your picture, adjust their thickness in the RIDGE CAP panel of the roof dbx

3 hours ago, kwhitt said:

I'm tempted to stick with X12 for now, but there are so many cool new features in X13

Boy you hit the nail on the head with that comment.  I've been sticking with X12 because of all the issues I'm seeing reported.  I don't recall ever seeing this many issues at a new release ...but man after going through the list of new features it's driving me nuts to not be able to take advantage of them yet. I don't yet have a machine that'll take advantage of RTRT so I can hold off for a few more months... hopefully some of these hiccups will get ironed out soon.

1 hour ago, Petjungb said:

While adding the frieze, parts of it are showing up inside the house, the outside looks as it should. Any ideas about why is it doing this?

 I just gave the room a type.... currently you have 'unspecified'... I changed it to 'bedroom' and the frieze moldings disappeared.   Probably should follow through with reporting this though, with the info that room type changes it.

29 minutes ago, Alaskan_Son said:

It seems like you moved the goalpost a little.  In your original post you said....

Hmmm?... Did the goalpost move?  I read Steve's post (goalpost?) with the emphasis on FOOTING.  If he said FOUNDATION, then he'd of moved the goalpost..

8 minutes ago, Alaskan_Son said:

I have no problem snapping to the footing and don’t need to futz around with snap settings to do it either.  

Seriously?...You can snap to the footing on the original dimension pull??   We need video proof  
Tape measure tool snaps to all parts of the footing, but dimension tool only snaps to the stemwall on the original pull... need to manually move it to the footing after placement.

Send it to a Cad Detail page... put that in your layout

27 minutes ago, robdyck said:

I can only imagine how many more can fit in there compared to vinyl siding gaps, for instance! Footings might need to be larger to carry the additional weight.

This is the future hotness... it's a food source...  just need to set up a little dispenser, kinda like the old five&dime store candy dispensers.... turn the crank... out comes the days protein... get the veg from the roof garden 

1 hour ago, KevinCochran said:

I'd like to add a limestone crown moulding and wall cap at the top of the parapet wall.  Not sure if that's something you could help with?  I opened one of the wall spec boxes and couldn't figure out how to do it that way.

Look for 'wall cap'

11 hours ago, Alaskan_Son said:

You can keep everything in a single plan and on a single floor even by just copying and pasting any given portion of your plan (can be done rather quickly using edit area).

Great run down on the different methods for options.  This ^^^ is my usual go-to method when walls and windows/doors are involved.  Reminds me too of another benefit to that manual floor area polyline we discussed elsewhere... if you copy that off to the side with the walls you want to use in the alternative option(s) you can use the polyline to precisely point-to-point move things back into the main plan you want to keep.  Of course with the floor level alternative you can do copy-hold position which is nice but if you want to work with exterior 3D views at the same time then it's not very suitable

6 hours ago, Kbird1 said:

Nice OOB thinking Mark....

Thanks Mick!   I've done that at times without the color change to make 3D plants look bushier.

May or may not do the trick for you, but might be worth playing with.  I got this by overlapping two plants.  One copy is rotated with the color modified with the rainbow tool to use a brighter green.

1 minute ago, Alaskan_Son said:

With an Open Below room there is no floor platform.  You should see in my example plan above that if you turn Auto Framing on, all the exterior chase walls automatically balloon frame anyway.  Its only the partition wall between the house and chase that needs to be specified as balloon framed.

oh yeah... I know that it doesn't build the platform with open below, I was simply referring to why it didn't come to me to do it this way... the mindset of first having to create the floor for it but then basically undo the platform using open below and balloon frame options.       

2 minutes ago, Alaskan_Son said:

 

You can still use the same method if balloon framing.  At worst, you might have to check Balloon Through Ceiling Above for the partition wall. 

Ahh...  yes, of course!...yet another option.  I'll have to give that one a try.  I've used the balloon through checkbox many a time for different walls before but I guess it didn't come to me as it seems counter-intuitive to go out of the way to build the chase with a floor platform and then tell it to ignore the platform and balloon frame it. 

14 hours ago, jasonN said:

but any idea how to get rid of this look:

This is an unfortunate limitation on how Chief joins dissimilar walls where that 'Roof splits' option is used.  I usually have corner boards to hide that when using this method, but when I have a stucco wall then I skip the 'Roof splits' option and use exterior walls all around with a wall material region on the inside.   I should point out that I only use this method when it's a chimney that will likely be balloon framed.  It looked like you had a sidewall chimney on a one-story house with a lower pitched roof so I guessed it would probably be balloon framed.  As Michael points out, any taller non-balloon framed chase would have a plate and the method he describes with an open below floor platform is the way to go.

5 hours ago, Alaskan_Son said:

NOTE:  You can also take this one step further and create an "All Layers On and LOCKED" layer set and do the same thing.  This main difference is that you use the lock toggle instead of the display toggle.  This approach has 2 advantages in that it will allow you to select objects like windows and doors that will not display if the wall layer is turned off, and it will also allow you to see other objects and use various snaps without even switching layer sets. Again, you just have to remember to re-lock all the layers when you're done so that its ready for you next time.

Great alternative!  Thanks

12 hours ago, jasonN said:

otherwise it looks like this with the studs showing:

Not really how it's usually built though.  Usually the main wall would continue up.  Alternatively to your solution you can break the house wall at the connections with the side walls of the chimney, then open that wall section, select the roof panel, then select 'lower wall split by butting roof' and apply the proper wall types to the upper and lower sections.

1 hour ago, MarkMc said:

Need to specify a new door/drawer for it. You can just rename them in library. Then they will allow different materials.

Thank you Mark!!

I've got to believe this is possible, but apparently I'm not coming up with the right search criteria.   I would like to change the material of only certain drawers and doors from the default material without changing the material on the rest of the doors/drawer faces on the same cabinet.

On 7/23/2021 at 5:19 PM, Alaskan_Son said:

I don't personally think this is a downside at all.  I can't speak to Joe's system specifically, but I recommend a polyline based system to most users as well.

Wow...I've never noticed you recommend this method to anyone before, but was surprised to see this because over the years I've seen what seems like hundreds of questions about getting plan areas and every time it comes up seems like there are grumbling responses about the 'workaround' that we have to make a polyline.  I've been doing polyline outlines since I began with Chief and have never had reason to gripe about it.  Not only do I know exactly what area is being calculated and can easily include or exclude areas which may or may not count as floor area depending on the projects jurisdiction but I frequently use the polyline outline with and without fills to display on different site plan based pages.

On 7/22/2021 at 6:48 AM, DianeP said:

Does anyone see something else that I could do?

Is it limited to decorative attachments?  Can you add on?... perhaps a covered porch along the front?  
What is behind that blank 2nd story wall right in the middle?  Could a window go there?
Need more info... 

Nope

36 minutes ago, Alaskan_Son said:

A few notes on this subject:

1. In X13, they made it super easy to change these blocks.  Simply select your symbol and click on the Edit CAD Block tool right there in your Edit toolbar.
2. That text may or may not be set to be controlled By Layer, so sometimes you can simply change the Layer text Style.  You would have to figure out which layer is controlling the text though.
3. Bonus Tip:  Chief also added a Change to GFCI/Change to 110V Outlet tool to the Edit toolbar so you can quickly change the outlet type.

1 hour ago, Adam_Gibson said:

Can someone point me to where to change the text on electrical symbols?

Oh... nice to see these new features...thanks for noting that Michael.  Haven't delved into X13 yet as I don't have the card to take advantage of the premium feature, and it seemed like there were some issues yet to be ironed out which in my current overloaded state with projects can't afford time to be monkeying with fixes.  

I just wanted to point out to the OP an alternative to using the specific electrical blocks that I have been doing.  I just use the labels on a standard switch and receptacle block, which can be changed, moved and rotated as desired.   

This could be an issue if you use materials lists for electrical, but I do not. If you do though, you could remove the tag from the blocks and just use the labels.

19 minutes ago, Alaskan_Son said:

Ya,  that’s really a different thing.  That’s the point of my first post.  Standard flattening is one thing.  It sounds like some jurisdictions might be looking for a step further though.  The results can look and print pretty crappy when everything is converted to an image though.  

It's an interesting topic.  I just did a little digging and it seems there's a whole lot of opinions and misconceptions etc..  I guess standard flattening will supposedly prevent text in 'fill in the blank' type pdf forms from being edited...but some say even that is not necessarily the case.   

Personally  I never really thought that the watermarks I've splashed across preliminary drawings could be easily deleted in seconds.  That seems like a major shortcoming to me.

6 minutes ago, Alaskan_Son said:

Pretty sure almost (if not) every PDF editor leaves text as text during the flattening process.

Hmm...I don't think so... I believe that's the whole point of flattening, so that text or other such things can't be edited in the PDF.
Per my original response above, with PDF-Xchange I have the option to select Print as Image and then text is not editable.