DougDM

I typically frame it then change the material, like on the decks cause mine looks more like the treated lumber that we get than the default material.  Again thanks

Nailed it Glenn, (no pun intended)  I new it was something simple and a new pair of eyes would pick it up. Cheers mate, I'm having a cold one for ya.

Thank you,

Doug

Actually not framing, I have a house we're working on at the beach with an open crawl space elevated on pilings. We typically frame a 2x4 Pressure Treated wall that hangs from the rim joists above down to grade, and sheathed with Hardy Board panels or the like.   I created a lower level "0" as if building a foundation,  but with no floor, or footings. Just a framed wall and a crawl space with a height of about 3ft from grade to sub floor above.  I tried framing it by selecting the walls and expecting the typical framing tool. The framing tool does not appear to be available in the edit tool bar. ????    I have room definition, structure available when I open the room/crawlspace diag. box. I made a copy of the walls along side the house, copied them then pasted to floor level 1. The framing tool became available and the stubby walls framed as I would expect. I reversed the copy  / paste to move the walls back down to Level 0, and the framing disappeared. Yes framing layers were on. The framing tool also disappeared. I've done similar jobs with no issues. Any Idea what I'm missing? The last image is what I'm trying to accomplish, it's a new drawing using the same template as the previous images. I framed the walls of the crawl space from Level 0, the framing tool was available...It worked fine..but I can't get it to work in the actual job plan. It's probably staring me in the face, Sometimes a break or an extra pair of eyes goes a long way.

Thanks,

Doug

Sooooo I finally accomplished it.  Not worth the effort though. I think it turned into a " I'm not going to let it beat me type of thing"   Took about 1/2 hour to get it right and into position. Basically I did as I mentioned, First I made a poly line rectangle as as if were cutting an actual valley rafter (to get the correct angle) in the field on a pair of horses, (no I didn't draw the horses LOL) but without plum cuts or a birds mouth. Then made a solid 3/8" thick... Then in a elevation /section view I rotated it to match the 5 in 12 pitch, and nudged it into place. I had to keep it a bout 1/32" proud of the auto generated soffit otherwise it was consumed. Added the rotated Beadboard material. It was much easier for the straight runs up the gables where boxed eves were involved, No angles to contend with like in the attached picture.  Thanks for all the suggestions and hopefully this will get into next X14 upgrade as an option.  As I was doing this I kept thinking it could be an option in so many places, perhaps where outriggers are used for fly rafters if there is a way they can separate gables from eves. Anyway, on the my next query....

Thanks,

Doug

43 minutes ago, Michael_Gia said:

 

I stand corrected.  I never realized that this wouldn't work for a gable roof, only Hips. 

I spoke too soon.

No problem, it had hope. I tried and yes, works with hips only. , I think I have a solution which I’ll give it a shot tomorrow. I’ll post if I’m successful. Thanks again.

30 minutes ago, solver said:

I've suggested ceiling planes in the past. They come in at the correct slope and can be joined at a 45 in the corner.

 

Yeah that would work, but with a flat ceiling or even a vaulted ceiling, But will it run up a rafter with a flat ceiling?  Going to give it a try. Is the ceiling vaulted in your example??

1 hour ago, robdyck said:

I'm not sure if this is reasonable, but the simplest solution I've found (it still sucks) is to use a shadow board at gables. You can specify a molding and it's offsets so it just covers the existing soffit, and give it a copy of the soffit material, rotated 90 degrees. There will still be some issues almost cetainly.

Seems to move the Rake board (gable fascia board) with the offset. Sorry bout the quotes, everyone calls it something different across the country. Shadow board, I call it rake molding since it's going on the rake board/Gable Fascia  LOL

24 minutes ago, robdyck said:

Umm, I don't think this works...almost all gable roof planes also have an eave and this is where we want the soffit going in opposite directions, right? Or am I missing something Michael?

Yes sir, you are correct, all one plane. If the eve and gable were two separate surfaces in the same plane, then it would work.

13 minutes ago, robdyck said:

Umm, I don't think this works...almost all gable roof planes also have an eave and this is where we want the soffit going in opposite directions, right? Or am I missing something Michael?

1 hour ago, robdyck said:

A few other fairly quick options

1. use a molding polyline around the exterior of the house for eave soffits. These can turned off on an edge-by-edge basis
2. use a 3d molding at gables drawn in a section view that faces the gable end, but cuts the roof plane (for the snap points).

!. How will that give me the angle of the roof, that would work for a flat (Eve) soffit.  Just lift it up to the correct elevation. Doesn't do much for up in the gables where the problems come up.

2. Yeah I did that with a flat panel solid, remember this is not boxed eves, well not all of them that is. Your way works for square ends, Not a compound angle.  That's where the problems arises.  As I mentioned in another comment to Solver.  It's doable, just looking for an easier way.

Thanks,

9 minutes ago, solver said:

 

No, and it would make a good suggestion.

 

The problem with workarounds is the miter when you have a gable roof.

Yup, you hit the problem on the head, especially in this case where you have a sort of upside down hip roof where the plane is following the rafters, This isn't a boxed eve so all the intersection are in a sense an inverted hip roof.  Figuring the angle is easy, I was thinking while in plan view make a poly-line rectangle with and angle as if I were cutting a hip rafter, Then convert to a solid, then from a section view rotate it to match pitch of roof, then back in plan view, slide it into place and make it the new material Beadboard at 90° to original. A pain but it could work. Where there is a boxed eve it's just an extruded / rotated solid.  Maybe I will submit it, It could be something similar to the Shadow Board Eve Only, Gable Only or Both options. Eve Soffit, Gable soffit options, Perpendicular to rafters or parallel. Thanks for your input.

Doug

Good day all, hope your all keeping safe.    A soffit material issue,   Without duplicating a roof plane, using a solid, etc. etc. (i.e a work-around)  I know I have to make a copy of the material and change it's angle,  I can of coarse create a thin solid skin, move it into position and apply the correct material. Just wondering if there is a setting somewhere that will do this by default. in other words Perp. to rafters at the gable ends. Even with boxed eves it's wrong. Obviously if I change it for gable ends it's wrong at the eves.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.  It's primarily for rendering purposes, I see it, I know the customer will also and question it.  Believe it or not, I've actually have seen siding guys run it the way CA does. 

Thanks,

Doug

What ever that means.  It can be done with Roof Planes...so why not with framing, other than using the Reference Layer Set

I'm a passenger, My point was I 'm not in front  of my computer to try, otherwise I would.

Should be an option as to what floor the framing shows on. 

Tough while driving, thanks for your help. Have a Happy Easter.

Good Morning and Happy Easter.   I typically create my own Story Pole dims by just pulling lines off my model at points I choose.  I stopped using the Auto SPD's (Story Pole Dimensions) cause I think when trying to choose different objects in more than one elevation, it would change them all.   Has that changed.  I. E. If I have two elevations, one is an Exterior Front Elev. and I set the story pole dims to accommodate the object of that elevation,  Then when I want to change the defaults to pick other objects on for instance a rear elevation... will it screw up the first SPD's layed down for the front Elev..? Thanks for any insight.

Stay Safe,

Doug

Jeeeeeezzzzz, why I didn't think of that after how many year of using this program. At 70, I hope it's not a memory thing, LOL  Thank You, Thank you Joey....Have a Happy Easter and stay safe.

Thanks again,

Doug

Can a section be created from a cad line in Chief ?  Or for example, (see attached)  Is there a way to create a back clipped / section other than straight across model. I though it to be possible in CA, maybe I'm thinking Revit or AutoCad Architecture or Inventor. Hummm.

Thanks for any insight.

Such BS,  paying almost $600 bucks a year I should be able to make a simple hand rail the way they are made in the field...and to code. It's easier to make them in SketchUp. Make a cad detail of the rim joist and elevation of the stairs stringer (separate the two)  Export the deck rim joist and an elevation view of stringer as a dwg file. Import to SU, do your railings work, save as skp file, Import to CA and place in plan. This one took about 20 minutes to make. I already had parts in SU.

Sweet aye?

Just an FYI...if you're using any of the pool tables from the library, you may need to adjust the sizes if you're looking for an accurate representation. The sizes the table come into plan are

over-all sizes, Which is great for determining whether or not it will fit in a given space. However, pool table sizes are determined according to the actual playing surface. For instance, a pro (regulation) table called a 4-1/2 ft. X 9 ft  or just a 9 foot table  (50" x 100') from nosing to nosing of the cushions (playing surface).  If you require other sizes, you can check on https://billiards.colostate.edu/faq/table/sizes/ for table sizes and playing areas needed. For example, the 8' table in the library comes in at 4'-8" x 8'-3",  the playing surface is correct at 44" x 88".   Which is fine...  keep in mind not all rail widths are the same width. You should lookup the table actually being used and draw a rectangle based on the over all dimensions ant hen another to represent the playing surface. The room size is based on playing surface size plus 5'-4" clear area around the perimeter of the table.  I.E.add 10'-8" to playing surface lengths for room size, more if possible.  I've been playing pool for some 50 yrs.,  a semi pro player and a table mechanic. I know what it's like trying to explain to clients if a table will fit or not. Or what's a comfortable area. Hope this is of any help.

Thanks Gene, I'll take a look at it.

I do both, framed and frame-less.

On 1/14/2021 at 9:30 AM, MarkMc said:

Sides and back aren't too bad. Bottoms get challenging, drawers are easy.

Plan attached showing 1/2" sides and back a few symbols included. Open symbol to see how originas and stretch zones are set, also open ALL sides of the cabinet box configurations.

Bottom-if you specify it smaller than 3/4 you will get an extra line there.

 

You can cheat the bottom using a custom symbol for a shelf.

 BUT in all of these shelves will not go all the way to the interior side unless you make a custom shelf with a locked width per each cabinet width.

 

Personally for most of these situations, at least for frameless cabinets, I would just specify the desired thickness and put up with the extra lines. Then use a CAD detail from view to clean them up right in Chief-no need to go to ACAD. Framed cabinets I might do as the included (forgot to add the face frame at the bottom or top though

 

Drawers- Just make a custom drawer with the box sides made the width you want. Jut be sure to set stretch planes of zones inside of the drawer sides. I've posted drawers and pull out inserts in the past if you do a search for them. Those should give you an idea how to set the symbols.

Cabinet side thicknesses.zip

On 1/14/2021 at 9:30 AM, MarkMc said:

Thanks Marc, I think I'll stick to what I know best, AutoCad and SketchUp Pro, By the sound of it I can draw a cabinet from scratch in the time it takes me to open a symbol. LOL. For clients I like to show materials / thicknesses being used, for actual building in the shop, it's a no brainer.

On 1/14/2021 at 10:36 AM, GeneDavis said: