justmejerry

Members
  • Posts

    437
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by justmejerry

  1. Plate is better , in that it gives you more structural stability for nailing the rafter to and less deflection if rafter isn't over framing below. The 5/8" or 3/4" sub-floor doesn't. The rafters will not line up over  existing framing below in all cases so the plate gives you that extra piece of mind.

  2. If you use deck room to create ceiling joists for first floor and another floor above that set to whatever you want to use for new 2nd floor

    space, it will let you manipulate joist direction. You would need to use 0" thickness for for deck planking layer for it to work and set deck room height to whatever thickness materials to be used for lifting new floor assembly up.

     

    3 hours ago, Alaskan_Son said:

    I HAVEN'T been able to quickly sort out is how to get a single plate to automatically framing for my 1-1/2" tall floor.

    Michael,

    I believe the wall would need to be at least twice the thickness of a plate for it to be considered a wall to be able to be drawn.

    deck for ceiling.jpg

  3. You can set up dimensions to your liking in the defaults for unit of measure and number of decimal places.Just double click the dimension button and it will take you to the default dbx. You should start with a metric template for your plan as well. Profile M is the default metric template.

  4. Not sure what is going on with that. I copied and pasted the roof over to side and the rafters show. No matter what you do with that roof it will not show in that area...almost like something is over-riding the roof plane. I copied rafters from one I moved to side and the rafters show then. This is one for tech support I think. Unless Michael or Glenn figure it out.

    P.S The link under the pictures in your post download a corrupted file at 10mb but dropbox link above the pics is good.