DBCooper

Like Mark said, you can always turn it off if you prefer to do it the old way:

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-03210/enabling-or-disabling-project-management.html

If you actually want to learn how to use it, maybe start here:

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/10299/x17-file-project-management.html

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-03217/working-with-the-project-browser-using-project-management.html

In order to create the drawer box, you probably won't be able to use just one polyline.  You could start with one for the outside shape, create another one for the inside shape, and use the subtraction tools to remove the inside area.  You will also need a bottom but you may be able to use the inside shape to create that. There are lots of ways to create this box though and this is just one way.  Another way that might be good would be to use a molding polyline but you would still need a separate polyline for the bottom.

Once you have the basic drawer box, you will need to convert it into a symbol object so that you can use it in the cabinet.

Here is a tech article that starts with some of the basics:

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00761/modeling-custom-3d-objects.html

Here is one that covers converting into a symbol:

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00809/converting-an-object-into-a-symbol.html

As for using a custom symbol for a drawer box, this tech article might help:

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-03142/replacing-a-cabinet-s-standard-shelves-with-rollout-shelves-or-drawers.html

Custom counters will always try to find a base cabinet to use for their settings (such as height, thickness, material, and backsplash).  The problem is that you can't always tell which base cabinet it will find first.  It might be the first one, or the last one, or one in the middle somewhere. 

If the one it finds has the backsplash turned on, then it will put a backsplash along all edges that are against a wall.  I don't think the "side" setting does anything in this case.  I don't know that I would call this a bug or not but it seems to be the way it has always worked (and it took me waaay too long to figure this out).  The easy fix is to just make sure all of the base cabinets have the backsplash turned off.

In Doug's case above, I didn't get the same results as him.  It looks like it might be a problem with the counter edge not always being against the wall.  I think it has to be right up against the wall and not have too big of a gap or any overlap.  I think it is easier to snap it against a wall while working in plan views instead of in 3D.  It might also be an update issue.  Every so often I run into things that magically get fixed by either doing a "rebuild 3D" or "rebuild floors/ceilings".  I would call that a bug and report it to Chief if it gets fixed just by hitting F12.

Now what I really wish we had was the ability to manually turn on/off the backsplash and/or the edge molding on any counter edge instead.

Yes.  If you use the toolbar search, it pops right up when you type "find".

One of the base cabinets under the custom counter is still set to have a backsplash.  Just select them all and turn off the backsplash and it should go away.

Not sure why the copy didn't work.  You might want to post the plan so that someone can take a look at it.

Since your ceiling heights are different, you stairs will probably be a different length so even if you are able to copy them, you will still have to modify them after the fact.

Are you using the latest update for X17?  If so, my best guess would be a video card or driver problem.

This tech support article might help:

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00106/troubleshooting-3d-camera-view-display-problems-in-chief-architect.html

I think all you need to do is draw your stairs going from floor 1-2 the same as you drew your stairs going from 0-1.  If you have the same ceiling heights, you might be able to use copy, change floors, and then paste hold position.  If this doesn't help, then you will need to give us more info about what you want and what you are having problems with.

This video might help as well:

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/392/aligning-stairs-across-floors.html?playlist=89

I *think* you will get point markers added automatically anytime the dimension line loses the original object it was dimensioning to.  For example, if your dimension is attached to a cross section line, and the program regenerates the cross section line, then it will get replaced with a point marker.  This is why you don't really want to dimension to cross section lines.

My guess is that the dimension lines in your gun rack detail aren't actually locating what you want them to.  You might want to post your plan and someone might be able to give you a better answer as to why it is happening.

As far as this happening more often in X17, I hadn't really noticed it myself.  I would suggest that you report it to Chief though if you ever want them to change it.

You could try using something like this in the label:

%width.to_m.round(2)% x %height.to_m.round(2)%

Do you have "use active window size" checked in the export picture dialog box?  If you don't and you are using some other image size, then I think the program will always need to create the image again at the size you set.  If you are using the active window, then it shouldn't need to.

Try "Flush Eave" for the boxed eave.

You could probably make a new wall type without the drywall on one side.

Instead of splitting the face to get two false drawers, just make it double false drawer.

I don't know of any way to get Chief to generate that spiral railing (or volute) automatically.  Your best bet is to find a symbol for it and then manually place it and the balusters under it.  You might be able to get Chief to generate the curved steps but this can also be tricky so you might need to give up and just model them with landings or maybe even polyline solids.  The curved and sloped wainscotting can also be a bit tricky if you are trying to model it exactly as shown in the lower picture.

BTW, there is a bonus library with some stair parts here:

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/3d-library/index.php?r=site/detail/1296

This stair video might help some but I think it really only covers some of the basics:

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/271/adding-stair-fittings.html

And last thing to try is a search on this forum for "volute" which should show you some old posts that might still have some valuable tips.

I think if you draw your walls clockwise, then it should work out ok regardless of whether you have an inside or outside corner. 

The other thing you can do, is just draw your walls out fast and then go back and adjust them to get the dimensions correct.  This is kind of old-school Chief.  You just draw the shape of the room and then you move the walls by typing in the dimensions to force them to be accurate.  This also works best if you go around the room adjusting the walls in a clockwise direction.

And last bit of advice, if you have not watched the quick start videos, I highly recommend them:

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/playlists/138/quick-start-video-series.html

Are you only using the invisible walls to raise the ceiling to make a tray ceiling?  If so, then you might want to try using the tray ceiling tool instead.  Not really sure why you are getting holes though so you might want to post your plan so that someone can poke around and see if you did anything to cause that.

Take a look at the bonus library called "MEP No.06 Specialty Electrical".  There are a bunch of cool things in it.

You can also search for "pop-up" but you probably need to have "include web results" turned on and you will get a bunch of sprinkler heads.

This tech article talks about how to make a symbol:

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00344/modeling-a-subdivision-or-lot-with-multiple-structures.html

Personally, I like using referenced plans too but sometimes a symbol can have some advantages.  You can make the building symbol smaller by making sure you turn off things you don't need.  Of course you do similar things with the reference display layer set so it might not be that big of a deal.  The other thing you can do with symbols is quickly change cosmetic things like paint and materials and generate several symbols with having to make a bunch of plan copies.  No easy way to change materials using layer sets (although that might be cool).

It might just mean that you are not currently signed in while in the program.  Try going to "account" from the main program menu and signing in, or maybe even signing out and then back in.

It really depends on how you want your dimensions to work.  Some people, such as a remodeler, may want to layout the as-built based on interior measurements but then they will show normal dimensions in their construction docs.  If you are strictly doing interior work, then you might want all of your dimensions to always go to interior wall surfaces.  You can open your dimension defaults and change your walls to use "surfaces" instead of using the dimension layer (usually the framing) setup in the wall type.

Also, check to see if you have temporary dimensions turned on.  You won't get a wall length dimension while you are drawing a wall when they are turned off.

You can also just place the refer as a free standing appliance and build the cabinet(s) that go around it.  You will probably run into the same issue with dishwashers.

Try this:

Open up your "general wall defaults".

Change the "resize about" setting to "inner surface".

Now as you draw a wall and see the temp dimensions, they should show you the interior surface-to-surface  length.  Same if you open up the wall dialog and look at the length.

You may also want to change your dimension defaults so that they will locate wall surfaces as well.

Open the active dimension defaults.  You should get them when you double click on the dimension tool.

Assuming you want to use the manual dimension tool, look for the "locate manual" settings.

Look for the cabinet settings and turn on "openings".  I think this will give you want you are looking for.

You added a "break" instead of a "complete break".  They do different things.  You can use the "disconnect selected subsection" tool (like Greg suggested) and then pull the lower section out wider.  

You will need to add another "complete break" for the bottom part (or add another break and then disconnect it again).

To get rid of the extra newel post, just shift-select the middle section and then you can open the stair dialog and turn off the newel post.  Anytime you want to just change one stair section instead of all of them, you can use the shift-select trick to isolate it otherwise it will change all of the connected sections.

You may have some other minor issues with the railing having a break in it because the stair slopes are not all exactly the same (see my picture below).  This kind of depends on where you put the breaks.  If you make all of the stair sections have locked treads and make them the same, you can probably solve this problem. 

You may not be able to get things like the wall trim and railing end to be exactly how you want them though.  Chief doesn't really like it if you try to have a wall end at the middle of a stair tread and it seems to work better when the full tread is either all against the wall or none of it is.  There is no easy way to notch a tread to fit around the wall corner.