DBCooper

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Posts posted by DBCooper

  1. Are the section view and the perspective view from the same plan?  Or is the section just a detail?  Normally, they should match so that doesn't make sense to me.

     

    Is it 7" to the top of the rafter?  Maybe Chief it trimming it automatically so it won't poke through the roofing?  These are just guesses.  You could try posting the plan for someone to take a look at.

  2. Did you build the framing?  Framing will only show up in framing overviews after you build it and it doesn't get built with the walls/floors/ceilings.  It is possible to setup the program to build the framing automatically but the default OOB settings have this turned off.  Turning on auto rebuild framing can also cause some lag if you have a complicated plan so personally I only build it when I need it.

     

  3. It looks like if you pull the mullion in too far you will get a hole in your wall when you don't have any casing.  You could try doing something lame like turning the casing back on and making it only 1/16" wide but this might give you a double line that you may not like.  Others may know some better work-arounds but you might want to post the plan for them to play with though.

     

  4. When you block windows, Chief will put in an extra piece between them that it calls a "mullion".  You can control how much it sticks out (or recesses) by opening the mulled unit dialog and changing the "mullion depth".  I *think* it will always use the same material as the casing.

     

     

     

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  5. I am guessing that you are using a cross section slider.  As far as I can tell, any labels outside of the cutting plane will also get cut out.  Could also be a problem with what side of the wall you are looking at.  I have noticed that window and door labels will only show up on one side of a wall by default.  Haven't played around with it enough yet to see if there is a way to control this though.

     

    image.thumb.png.808e1c5da7ccd560c06d75f5cacd0399.png

     

  6. Quote

    So, I have reading up and experimenting with 3d molding polylines instead of building exterior trim (circled below) manually with 3d solids. When you draw the outline of the home exterior, make it a 3d molding polyline and attach the molding it does not cut in way of door bottoms. CA says add break lines and pull the line down to door bottoms. I did that and it offsets to the inside of home. Any tips or what I am doing wrong? It would be a much faster way of doing trim. We have a frieze board option on roof settings but nothing for house bottoms.

     

    If you do want to use moldings, you are probably doing it the hard way.  You don't need to "draw" the molding polyline.  Just select the exterior room first, and then use the "make room molding polyline" tool.  It should automatically add break points for any windows and doors (depending on the height used when you make the molding polyline).  It will also automatically mark these edges as "no molding on selected edge".  You can also add your own break points and mark any edges as having or not having moldings where needed.  You still need to set the molding profile you want and turn off "extrude inside polyline" setting to make it look right though.  You will also need to update it if you move any walls or doors.  Sure would be nice if you could add moldings to the exterior room the same way you can to interior rooms though.

     

     

    image.thumb.png.db980fa9bd8676fb460fcb496028b85c.png

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  7. Quote

    EDIT: If I go to a camera view, click on the library appliance, then on the tall cabinet, it works fine, but still can't get it to work from the diag box. I think its a bug.

     

    This has been an issue for many versions, just thought it would be fixed by now. ovens are from the core library

     

    It only works from the dialog if you change the cabinet width and depth to 30" first.  After you add the wall oven, you can then change the depth back to 24" if you want.

     

    @Gary-Doski @tpiendel You should probably report it to Chief if you ever want them to fix it.

     

  8. There is a "rope light" tool where you can draw your own rope light just like you can draw moldings.  You should find it with the rest of the electrical tools.

     

    As far as what's in the core libraries, I don't remember seeing anything that was called a rope light in the core libraries.  If you take a look under architectural>lighting>cabinet, I only have 5 different lights but that is all I think I had in the older versions as well.  Not sure what all is in the bonus libraries since I haven't bothered with most of them.  Maybe you could post a picture or plan of what you are looking for and someone might recognize it?

     

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  9. See this section in the help article:

    https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00521/troubleshooting-slowness-in-chief-architect-projects.html#3D


     

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    Avoid working with multiple 3D camera views open. Every time you make a change to the plan, the program will redraw the entire model. Depending on the complexity of the design, this may take a long time.

     

    So yes, having a bunch of 3D camera views open can cause lag.

     

     

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    Avoid importing 3D objects from outside sources that have a large number of complex surfaces, as these can significantly slow down camera views.

     

    So yes, importing symbols from outside sources that have high surface counts can cause lag.

     

    So my guess is that most of the lag you're seeing has to do with what you have in your plan.  If you want to see if upgrading your hardware will make a big enough difference to justify the cost, you could post a plan that is slow on your computer and other people can try it and let you know how long it takes on their machines.  

     

  10. Before you run out and buy new hardware, you might want to look here:

    https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00521/troubleshooting-slowness-in-chief-architect-projects.html

     

    If you do decide on a new machine, I would ignore the min system specs and I would shoot for something that is as good (if not better) than the "recommended" specs:

    https://www.chiefarchitect.com/products/sysreq.html

     

    You might also want to check out the Chief blog article here:

    https://www.chiefarchitect.com/blog/computer-for-design-and-gaming/

     

  11. Eric's solution will only give you 2 rails.  If you want more, you will probably have to use a "panel symbol" for your railing.  Panels will look terrible with the straight segments though since Chief can't seem to make them curve to follow the stair.  You might be able to get slightly better results by setting your newel spacing to be 2" and your newel height to 0" to fool the program into making 2" segments instead of 8' ones.

     

  12. Just to add to what Robert said...

     

    If you don't want to see them for one particular window/door, then you can open the dialog and turn them off on the "opening indicators" page.

     

    If you don't want to see them for one particular type of window/door, then you can turn them off in your window/door defaults.  There are also separate settings for hinged versus sliding windows.

     

    If you don't want to see them for one particular view, then you can turn them off in your layer display options.  This will also affect cabinets though.