DBCooper

What and how are you changing things?  Are you editing your elevation lines or are you trying to add new stuff? Lot's of different things you could be doing that can have different effects.

Do you have auto rebuild terrain turned on?  If not, then you will need to manually rebuild the terrain any time you make any changes.

I don't think you can make a pocket window without making a pocket door.  It is very easy to make it show up in the window schedule though.  Just open your pocket door, go to the schedule page, and change the "include in schedule as" to be a window type.

Always best to post pictures instead of pdfs because pdfs have to be downloaded first to view them.

Assuming that your window is set to exactly 1/2" less than the nominal size (as in 31.5" instead of 32"), and your dimensions are rounding to the nearest 1/16", and your dimensions are actually locating the sides of the window (instead of accidently locating something else), I can't come up with a case where that might happen.  Even if your window is at some random distance along the wall, the window size should always be spot on. 

Probably best to post the plan files so that people can look into them to see what is going on.  Just an FYI, plan files usually need to be made smaller to post on the forum or posted somewhere else online with a link to them.  If you are trying to make a plan smaller, you can try making a zip file and if that is not small enough you can make a copy and delete things that have nothing to do with the problems.

I have no problem opening plans posted here.  I always use "file open" from within the program and avoid using double-click on downloaded files though.  I have never heard of anyone posting any plans with viruses here so I am not even sure if that is possible.

The width of your polyline is exactly 4 2/3".  I assume that you set it this way on purpose just to play with the dimensions.

You can't represent 2/3 exactly as a decimal number because it repeats forever which is why you will see "66667" as the last numbers.  

If you round your dimensions to the nearest 1/16, 1/32, 1/64, or even 1/128, then it won't be exact because none of these numbers are divisible by 3.  This is why you will get things like 11/16 or 21/32 because those are the closest values you can get to 2/3.

When you click on a dimension value to edit it, I think the program will always try and show you the most accurate number it can.  Personally, I think this is a good thing and I wish dialog boxes would do this too.  I sometimes use the "number style" button to change the display to decimal inches just so that I can see the "real" values instead of the rounded ones.

It is interesting that sometimes it shows you the exact fraction and sometimes the nearest decimal value but I don't think that is something to worry much about.  I would be far more worried about what the dimension displays as in the plan view and if you want it to be accurate then you will need to change the 4 2/3" to something that can be represented accurately for however you want to display them.

Lot's of things might be going on.  Should probably post the plan so someone can poke around in it.

You will probably need to make a compressed zip file to post it and might even need to delete things that have nothing to do with the problems (like fixtures and furniture).  If it is still too big, you can always post it online somewhere we can download it.

That was going to be my first guess.  Doors will always use the higher floor of the two rooms.

FYI, you don't actually need to resend the view.  You can open the layout box dialog and change the view type there.

Assuming that those cabinets are the same width, then it looks to me like the only problem is that they are just not aligned with each other.  Some times you can get them to snap together by moving one of them farther away first, letting go of it, and then when you move it back look for the object snaps to get them back aligned.  Another thing that can help is to use the point-to-point move tool or maybe even the center object tool.  Another way that can work is to drag one of the cabinet corners using the middle mouse button to snap to the other cabinet corner.  

Are you in a camera view when you are trying to toggle it?

You might get better answers on the Home Designer forum here:

https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com

Not sure if you mean V10 (which is really, really old now) or X10 (which is still old), but you might be able to do it with the transform/replicate dialog.  You can place a current point at the center of the arc and then set the number of copies, using a relative rotate angle, and then select "about current point".

The other way you could do this is use a distributed path.  This in my opinion might be better because then you could adjust them much easier later if needed and a path could be an arc, spline, or any other shape you need.

Did you send the view as "plot lines"?  You can only edit plot lines.

Are you using the latest update for X17?  I saw something in the update notes that was about light position indicators that wouldn't always go away. If you aren't using the latest update, then you probably want to get it.  If turning them off using the update doesn't make them go away, then you should post your plan.

Try placing them on the ceiling inside a room on the first floor and then dragging them outside under the overhang.  You might also need to adjust the height offset so that they sit where you want them.

I think Mark's comments are still solid.  I haven't heard of 2020 making any changes to make the programs more compatible and I don't think Chief has either.  @MarkMc might want to chime in if he has any new info.

This all begs the question though, why do you want them to be compatible? 

Are you trying to work with both 2020 and Chief?  And if so, you might be able to do everything you need in Chief making compatibility a moot point.

Are you using Chief but want to work with others that are still using 2020?  Probably not much you can do to get around this but you might be able to streamline the process of going from Chief to 2020 to make this slightly less painful.

Have you tried just using a cross section of the door by itself?  If you need to make edits to the profile, you could always use the "cad detail from view" tool.

You can move floors up using the "insert new floor" tool.

As for posting plans, sometimes you can make the file smaller by removing all of things that are not part of the problem, like all of the fixtures and furniture.  When this doesn't work, then you need to post it on an online location, like dropbox.

Did you ever send Chief a feature request on this?

You might want to check out these:

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/281/creating-sun-study-animations.html

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-01001/using-the-sun-angle-tool.html

Don't change the setting in the wall dialog.  If you already did, then go and set them all back to "use default".  Then you can change the setting in the saved plan view dialog.

Probably really easy to figure out with a plan.   

Without, I would look for anything that can cause a floor/ceiling change, such as floor/ceiling heights or structure changes.  This causes the program to build them separately and the tray ceiling doesn't like to span these breaks.  One thing I like to try is to select all of the rooms involved and then look for anything that is marked as "no change" in the room dialog.  Another thing you can do is use the match properties tool to see if all the rooms next to you actually have the same properties.

Quote

 

I assumed the purpose of locking a wall was to prevent any changes to that wall, including its position in the plan

 

I think your assumption is wrong.  The only way to "lock" a wall is to lock the layer.  All this does is prevent you from accidently selecting it and moving it yourself.  As far as I know, there is nothing you can do to keep the program from changing a wall when it thinks it needs to.  People have been asking for this for as long as I can remember but personally I have run into very few cases where I have ever wished I had this.  Most of the time it's just a matter of learning how to use the program and all of its complicated (and sometimes weird) rules.

I did not look at your plan (because you did not post one) but if you drag a wall on top of another one, the program can replace the existing wall with the one you moved.  In many cases this can be really handy but sometimes it is not what you want.  In your case, it sounds like you are trying to bump an interior wall up against a foundation wall.  Like the others have said, you might want to make sure you have the "furred wall" option turned on.

You might also want to make sure you are working with bumping turned on as well.  If your bumping is off, it is really easy to put one wall on top of another one which can cause it to replace the other one.

You might also want to fix the problem with warning sign.  If one of your walls is off angle, this can lead to all kinds of strange problems.  Your picture is too small to see the details but I can't imagine that what you have done is what you really want.

It might be because Chief thinks it is too deep.  See this recent post:

Try turning off "flatten pad" and then lower the terrain to about -10'.

That tile picture probably won't look very good unless you first edit it in an image editor (like photoshop).  The pattern doesn't repeat correctly and it doesn't have even shading which is going to show a subtle seam.  You might be able to make it look a lot better by just cropping the top/bottom so it at least repeats better.

You might also want to look for something in the material libraries that looks close enough.

Not sure if you can make one using the new "material builder" but it might be worth looking into.

Here are some videos that might help:

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/10145/creating-custom-tile-materials.html

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/10301/custom-tile-materials-new-material-builder.html

Gene's solution is how you had to do it in older versions.  You don't need to mess with the 3D data anymore.  Under "options", you already have "inserts into countertop", now all you need to do is set the "vertical offset" to something more appropriate, like -3".  You have it set to float 2" above the countertop currently.