DBCooper

Sounds like a bug to me.  Post your plan or report it to Chief.

My guess is that 90% of your problems are because you expect Chief to work like Revit.  Chief is different.  Although I think it is "easy to use", it is also pretty "hard to master".  Give yourself lots of time to get over the learning curve.  Try to forget everything you thought you knew about cad software and start from the beginning with the training videos:  https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/  There are also a bunch of other training resources available, including personal tutors.

Here are some thoughts and suggestions that might help you for now though.

- Temporary dimensions don't always work the same in plan views as they do in elevation views.  They have been "evolving" over the last couple of versions and I think they are getting more powerful but I still don't think they have all of the glitches worked out.  When you run into problems you should report them to Chief, either as a bug report or as a feature request depending on the type of problem you are having.

- Group selecting windows in an elevation view won't give you the distance from the next object like they do in plan view.  This is exactly the kind of thing you should ask Chief to add.  For now, I would probably just position them in a plan view.

- Temporary dimensions will normally be different depending on which side of an object you select.  I don't think this works when group selecting though.  Would be nice if we had the same ability or even a different way of controlling this.  This also is the kind of thing you should ask Chief to add. 

- I think the normal size of the temporary dimensions is going to be the same size as a manual dimension in whatever view you are working in.  This means that if your temporary dimensions are too big, then your manual dimensions are probably going to be too big as well.  That can also be a problem with the arrows.  The defaults can be setup a lot of different ways but chances are your temporary dimensions are getting the text size from the text style that the layer is using.  The arrows are going to be controlled by your current dimension defaults.

-  Temporary dimensions can automatically shrink to try and fit better on the screen.  Normally, this isn't really a problem since they are not going to be printed.  If they are getting too small to read on the screen, you can change the "minimum display size" for them in your preferences.

- When all else fails, just draw a manual dimension and when you are done with it you can delete it.  You can also keep it around and put it on a layer to manage your own "working" dimensions.

- There are lots of other tools that can sometimes work better then the temporary dimensions.  For example, align/distribute, transform/replicate, multiple copy, point-to-point move, etc.  Sometimes there is a much better way to move things than just using temporary dimensions.  When working with the sizes of objects, and not just the positions, it can sometimes be easier to just use the dialog. 

-  I see you have angle snaps turned off.  This can lead to all kinds of problems when you have things on strange angles.  Do yourself a favor and keep them turned on.  You can change the angle increments in your general plan defaults if you don't like the default 15 degrees.

Hopefully, this info helps.  Keep asking questions as you run into problems.  People on this forum are almost always around to help.

First, it's better to put pictures directly into your posts instead of making people download a pdf.  Second, your picture is too small to be able to see many details.

There are at least two ways to model a window like that.  One way is to make a double hung window and then set the "component size" so that the lower portion is bigger than the upper portion.  The other way is to model two separate windows stacked on top of each other and then block them into a mulled unit.  In the picture below, the window on left is using the component size and the window on the right is a mulled unit.  I would use the technique that matches the real world one the closest.

You can turn it off for the whole roof plane in the dialog "roof size" table under "structure".  I don't know if there is anyway to turn it off for just one side.

You can use any door panel symbol you want and then just raise the bottom (by setting the bottom offset) and lower the top (by setting the panel height) so that the panel is smaller than the opening.  I couldn't find a door panel that looked like your picture but it should be pretty easy to make one using poly solids or whatever.

Instead of deleting your post, you could always add the answer for the next person that runs into this.

Are your doors actually low enough to make a cutout in the foundation walls?  If they are, then you should probably post your plan.

On that note, camera callouts don't have all the same controls that normal callouts have.  Would be nice if they did though.

@LukeMathew12 I am going to assume that you are just a clanker.  If not, then I apologize for the mistake but it really doesn't make sense to make a post where you just repeat what has already been said.

I am guessing that you were using X10 or maybe Version 10 since there was no C10 that I know of.  In either case, the older the plan, the more problems you will see when you bring it into the latest version.  At some point, it might be less frustrating to just draw it over using all of the new defaults.

It is possible to change your wall type so that you can extend the siding down to cover the floor trusses (look under layer properties in the wall type dialog) but normally you should not need to do this.  Not sure what would cause this problem in an old plan though.

Might be best to post your plan so someone can poke around in it.  

The text used by the callout is controlled by the text style used by the layer it is on.

Go into the kitchen and bath view, select the camera.  Look at the ALDO (active layer display options).  It will tell you what layer the camera is using and what text style the layer is using.  Do the same thing in the working plan view.  If they are using different text styles, then the text will look different.  If you want them to look the same, you will need to set them to use the same text style.

It looks like you have turned off "automatic" for the callout size as well.  You might want to turn that back on because it looks pretty silly with the callout text outside of the callout.

Are you actually using the last update to X16 (26.3.0)?  I just took a look at the old update notes and it looks like they thought they fixed this. Seems a bit unfair to come back a year and a half later and complain about it now. 

You might want to see what it looks like in X17 and if you are still seeing the problems then you should probably report them to Chief (instead of just a forum rant).  I don't think there is much hope they are going to release any more updates to X16 but I would think that X17 updates are still possible since they just released one a couple of weeks ago.

Yes, that is definitely a tech support issue.

The arrowhead fill looks fine with line weights turned off.  Can't see the fill with the line weights turned on because the lines are too thick.

Even though the polyline is marked as having a line weight of 0, I think the arrow cad block is overriding the polyline settings for some reason. I didn't have much time to see if I could find a solution but maybe someone else can.

Try "tools->checks->referenced plans".  In theory, it should show you all of your external references.

What does the error message say?

They also have a video, not sure if it covers all of the same stuff as the tech article since it is only 2 minutes long:

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/videos/watch/248/creating-templates-from-existing-plans.html

Your new "bold" arrowhead just looks like a thick line.  Unless it is a closed polyline, with an open area inside of it, you can't use a fill style.  If it is a proper polyline that can have a fill, you might want to post your plan so someone can play with the settings.

I like to use the "save as template" tool.  Here is a tech article that might help:

https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-03094/creating-custom-templates-from-existing-projects.html

You can get pretty close using a "fixed door" by setting the bottom of the frame larger and making 2 vertical lites.  If you need it to look more accurate, you would need to use a door symbol.

You can either make the plan smaller or post it somewhere on the cloud and put a link to it here.  To make a plan smaller, you can try making a compressed archive (zip) of just the plan file (rather than the whole project which usually has stuff you don't need).  Need to make sure you do this when the plan is not open in the program otherwise it might not work.  If it is still too big, then make a copy of the plan and then delete the stuff that isn't part of the problem, especially things like fixtures, furniture, terrain, etc..  The "delete objects" tool is a good way of getting rid of things in a plan.  Sometimes when you delete things the problem goes aways which can give you a clue about what is causing the problem.

What and how are you changing things?  Are you editing your elevation lines or are you trying to add new stuff? Lot's of different things you could be doing that can have different effects.

Do you have auto rebuild terrain turned on?  If not, then you will need to manually rebuild the terrain any time you make any changes.

I don't think you can make a pocket window without making a pocket door.  It is very easy to make it show up in the window schedule though.  Just open your pocket door, go to the schedule page, and change the "include in schedule as" to be a window type.

Always best to post pictures instead of pdfs because pdfs have to be downloaded first to view them.

Assuming that your window is set to exactly 1/2" less than the nominal size (as in 31.5" instead of 32"), and your dimensions are rounding to the nearest 1/16", and your dimensions are actually locating the sides of the window (instead of accidently locating something else), I can't come up with a case where that might happen.  Even if your window is at some random distance along the wall, the window size should always be spot on. 

Probably best to post the plan files so that people can look into them to see what is going on.  Just an FYI, plan files usually need to be made smaller to post on the forum or posted somewhere else online with a link to them.  If you are trying to make a plan smaller, you can try making a zip file and if that is not small enough you can make a copy and delete things that have nothing to do with the problems.

I have no problem opening plans posted here.  I always use "file open" from within the program and avoid using double-click on downloaded files though.  I have never heard of anyone posting any plans with viruses here so I am not even sure if that is possible.

The width of your polyline is exactly 4 2/3".  I assume that you set it this way on purpose just to play with the dimensions.

You can't represent 2/3 exactly as a decimal number because it repeats forever which is why you will see "66667" as the last numbers.  

If you round your dimensions to the nearest 1/16, 1/32, 1/64, or even 1/128, then it won't be exact because none of these numbers are divisible by 3.  This is why you will get things like 11/16 or 21/32 because those are the closest values you can get to 2/3.

When you click on a dimension value to edit it, I think the program will always try and show you the most accurate number it can.  Personally, I think this is a good thing and I wish dialog boxes would do this too.  I sometimes use the "number style" button to change the display to decimal inches just so that I can see the "real" values instead of the rounded ones.

It is interesting that sometimes it shows you the exact fraction and sometimes the nearest decimal value but I don't think that is something to worry much about.  I would be far more worried about what the dimension displays as in the plan view and if you want it to be accurate then you will need to change the 4 2/3" to something that can be represented accurately for however you want to display them.

Lot's of things might be going on.  Should probably post the plan so someone can poke around in it.

You will probably need to make a compressed zip file to post it and might even need to delete things that have nothing to do with the problems (like fixtures and furniture).  If it is still too big, you can always post it online somewhere we can download it.