-
Posts
1196 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Posts posted by stevenyhof
-
-
See the video for more details. My front elevation moved off to the side - but it used to be in the center.
https://www.loom.com/share/3c664f67494c447da453fd60a1a0c23a
Thank you,
Steve
-
Hello,
How do others deal with this issue of showing only the main wall layer, and also show the pony wall details?
https://www.loom.com/share/065ec43bccca444189befa2716629d75
Thank you,
Steve
-
13 minutes ago, Gr8trim4u said:
We are using wolf polyash trims for our lintel. Made of 4 pieces. Grab the pdf from wolf trace over them in cad add them to your library and you can stack them up how you need them.
Pm me I will send what I have sketched up.
Thank you - I know how to make the molding now so I'm all set. But other may want them.
-
Thank you, Steve!
-
29 minutes ago, Dermot said:
I believe the thickness of the lintel is always determined by the profile you are using. You can only specify the width in the dialog. If you choose a profile that is pretty small, and then stretch it to the width, then I would expect to see the results you are seeing. Try selecting some of the various crown moldings that are in the core libraries, and you should see this.
My best guess is that the profile you are using is not actually 4"x6" but something much smaller. It is then getting stretched for the width in the one direction only. Without the plan and profile, I am only guessing.
Ah yes! You are right, the profile is probably only an inch thick (deep) - so I understand now. So I want to make my profile as close to the actual size to maintain the right perspective. Thank you!
-
-
1 hour ago, SNestor said:
@stevenyhof - sounds like the “Chief wiggle” (my tech term) as I’ve suggested to you a few times is the solution.
Yes, the SNester Wiggle! Works great! But I was hoping that bringing this to their attention they would take it to heart and look at their code and filter in the idea of other objects below the roof and fix this. Until that happen, I will continue using the "SNester Wiggle" Pronounced Snester
Steve, I ran into another gable end siding and roof issues. I managed to make it work, but with lines that show in the 2D elevations. I may reach out to you on this so we can work through this together.
Thank you,
Steve
-
1
-
-
So I submitted this topic to support and got this reply. So maybe windows or other objects need to be readjusted to help fix the roof...
- Support Answer -
Connor H
Wednesday, Dec 16, 2020 - 02:54 PM PSTHi Steve,
Thank you for attaching your plan and linking us to ChiefTalk.
I found that one of the roofs was fixed after moving some of the windows. Anytime there is an object coming into conflict or intersection with the roof plane, the roof plane will automatically try to compensate for the object and build around it, so moving the windows to a new location (then back) and allowing the roof to automatically adjust seems to fix the problem.
I also saw the issue with the auto roof return. If the option for auto roof returns is deselected or if it was drawn in manually and it is not going away as you want it to, sometimes adjusting it and readjusting it back will force some of the automatic features to readjust and fix the issue.
Sometimes the software requires things to be manipulated a small amount and then manipulated back to the prior state manually to force the automatic features to readjust. Let me know if this helps. -
39 minutes ago, rgardner said:
Just curious how you are going to waterproof that toilet flange...?
I think the best be would to use some caulk
-
1 hour ago, robdyck said:
It seems that the problem boxed eave in the back of the house doesn't work because there is a roof plane below it.
It seems you have run into this before. So I wanted to test some things to see the results... Very interesting!!
-
1 minute ago, robdyck said:
You'll never win trying to get flush eaves to work correctly. It seems that the problem boxed eave in the back of the house doesn't work because there is a roof plane below it. No logic to that, that's just what I've noticed in my own experience. I must admit, I've taken a plan that I wanted to use flush eaves, and after crying and swearing, I just designed it with boxed eaves all around. The answer to consistent flush eaves is that you'll need to uncheck boxed eaves and make all the parts manually.
Good to know the roof below issue. It is things like that in time we begin to notice, and hopefully Chief does too.
I actually just thought of manually filling in the soffit, maybe make some block/symbol I can put in place and stretch.
I do draw a lot of boxed eaves but lately it seems clients and builders are moving to this more modern farm house which do not have boxed eaves - however, they they don't have much of an eave so I get away with it then.
Thank you for the info!
-
Here is a new one I am running into the same issue. This house has a 16" eave and 12" gable.
Check out the video to see the issue...
https://www.loom.com/share/e907158541e142a197edb72584fb9faa
Download planhttps://drive.google.com/file/d/1fFiIMsKISNQZSR2_ORjyvleKpxK_Kwv7/view?usp=sharing
-
On 12/11/2020 at 3:48 PM, ShaneK said:
your fascia were different heights,, only 3/8" of and back roof plane was corrupt so I deleted and made new. It was a very quick repair and you have a nice project. We both Michganders!!!!!
Thank you.
-
24 minutes ago, stevenyhof said:
Thank you! You win the contest that is going on below. I'm not trying to win a contest on this thing, I just wanted the roofs fixed. Mind you I would love to know what you did to fix it, but I know time is money and so not pushing.
Steve
4 hours ago, ShaneK said:I spoke too soon. Sorry Charly, no cigar! I still gave you a +1 for trying
-
Just now, robdyck said:
That's the beauty of it...you need to consider their budget. I have no constraints!
Like they say, beauty is in the eye of the beh..... um, the client
-
1
-
-
2 hours ago, robdyck said:
I assume this design was led by toilet paper hoarding? Or perhaps the client is doubling down on the green smoothies for breakfast?
What can I say, this made me chuckle!
However if they need to strip down to use the can, then perhaps the shower heads need to be reoriented so the client has room to practice their ski-jumping form!
I think of it more as a car wash... in one side and out the other.
-
2
-
-
1 minute ago, robdyck said:
For sure! It's easy to just toss out ideas from here, you know?!
I totally understand! And I will happily admit what you propose is much better looking. But adds cost.
-
4 hours ago, ShaneK said:
Thank you! You win the contest that is going on below. I'm not trying to win a contest on this thing, I just wanted the roofs fixed. Mind you I would love to know what you did to fix it, but I know time is money and so not pushing.
Steve
-
3 hours ago, robdyck said:
A few simple thoughts:
- the hip roof on the right could extend further to reduce the height of the gable behind it. That proportion doesn't feel quite right.
- I'd add similar gable siding treatments to both gables. Some decoration at the forward gable will help reduce the visual impact of the larger gable
- Add a timber truss to the gable ends mounted behind the sub-fascia.
- increase the height of the garage door on the right by 12". If it's 7', try using 8'....if it's 8' try using 9'. Again the proportion is off a bit IMO.
- Colors...tans are drab and they don't help it look better.
hahaha... I appreciate the ideas Sir! The front is a new remodel, and while on a lake, are not looking to spend money on exterior things. I added the garages to give it some life, but that too will most likely just be steel solid panels.
I did make the garage door 8' now because I had 8' top plates and the client wanted 10' now, so was in the middle of working with the roof...
Thank you,
Steve -
-
Hello,
I am struggling with the roofs on this house - which is kind of funny because it is like the first simple roof I have drawn.
I have run into this before and so remade roofs, mirrored good roofs over, moved my eave widths around and tried different options, and I just cannot figure this out.
SND1862 Tom and Stacie Doolittle.plan
https://www.loom.com/share/26172b2b24ec4471b4df534d6a4d696b
Thank you
-
5 minutes ago, Dermot said:
Chief will create either an interior or exterior door based on the room types on each side of it.
If the door is between an exterior room type and an interior room type, it will be an exterior door. If it is in between two interior room types, it will be an interior door.
If the door is between two porches, like it is in your plan, the program considers this an interior door. I really can't say why, but my guess is that it has always been this way and that this is not very common.
The good news is that you can still specify all of the settings (such as the casing and materials) just like you can for an exterior door. All you need to do is check the "Separate Trim and Materials on Each Side" option that Michael was hinting at.
The other solution is to change the room type of the fully enclosed room to some interior room type.
Very good. Thank you! Now I know that I can address this when I run into it again.
-
1 minute ago, Alaskan_Son said:
Yes. On that panel.
I changed my room back to porch so I could get that door.
I checked the option for Interior Doors, and it changed to an exterior door. hmmm - it must be for something else also as that did not catch my eye.
Thank you Michael! -
Just now, DzinEye said:
You could make either of those two joined porches a garage and it works.
Thank you Mark! I'm on my way again
Elevations not sitting on page correctly
in General Q & A
Posted
Steve Nestor helped me the answer... It was as simple as grabbing the paper grips and moving it into the center![:P :P](//forums-cdn.chiefarchitect.com/chieftalk/emoticons/default_tongue.png)