CV-reno

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Posts posted by CV-reno

  1. 12 hours ago, Chopsaw said:

    It would likely be easier to use a molding or even an offset room molding if the structure is a single room.  However there is something else that I can't really explain the logic of.  You can create a pony wall that is the same as the main wall but slightly shorter and then apply your wall cap and use the offsets to position it and it seems to work. :wacko:

     

    image.thumb.png.03fd61c1d73e9820d38a0d8274e27735.png

    Great advice, as usual, thanks!

     

    Edit: Tried the pony & cap.  The cap extended over the garage door, but not enough to join the adjoining caps, leaving an important and visible gap.  I finally resorted to the traditional patch: P-solid box:

     

    Final.thumb.png.1963f3fcdd5eed0a600dcdf638d6b0fd.png

     

    But that brought some other issues in camera view using sun angles (adjust sunlight):

    • Morning sun

    1645124388_9a.m..thumb.png.5027cdfb76542c64b806ec552c4c2fb1.png

     

    • Mid-afternoon sun:

    1741431760_3p.m..thumb.png.85521929c75534c320d30f778b2003ed.png

     

    The P-solid and the regular wall caps on either sides have the same material properties:

     

    1129389460_Materialproperties.thumb.png.79de50e48dc28b0cbd3ace7049db40d6.png

     

    Go figer.  Doable, but not easy.  Why so much pain when this was reported before?

  2. See attached test plan.  It seems whenever a door is introduced in a wall with a cap, the cap will be removed over the door.  Not so if a window is introduced.  I even tried converting the garage door into a window symbol, but CA knew better and still removed the cap over it.  What's the magic parameter?

     

    I went through parameters, help and forum search, no explanation.

    snip_20220205024625.thumb.png.f0e9af98f765e19405241bb357d76dca.png

     

    X13 Test.plan

  3. 5 hours ago, solver said:

    @CV-reno

     

    Your comment above is what is called hijacking. You find a thread that is very slightly related to your question, then add it to that already existing thread, when it's best to start a new Topic and ask your question there.

     

    Doing so helps keep the forum organized, and helps when people are searching for answers.

     

    Comments may be deleted via the 3 dots to the top right.

    I'm really sorry to have apparently hijacked a thread where the OP asked about a screen door and I posted about issues around a sliding screen door, hoping Joey might have some suggestions.

    • Upvote 1
    • Downvote 1
  4. Gets complicated when adding a sliding screen door to the outside an existing sliding patio door.  Need a wall offset (2.5" in my case), panels 0 left 1 right, no casing, no lintel, no jamb.  If you adjust any door parameter, panels get reset so you need to go set again.  And you need to show the screen door closed or else the glass door exterior casing adjusts to the screen door.  I may be missing something here, help me out.

     

    Just wish screen doors would be an option for sliding doors and let CA adjust everything.

  5. On 1/7/2021 at 5:19 PM, AvoyeDesign said:

    I just discovered today that a 60KB PDF file I've imported into a layout causes the PDF file I print FROM the layout to be 17,000KB larger than if the imported PDF file is not included!  What gives? 

    Not the ideal solution, but have you tried 'optimizing' the resulting PDF from layout?  Post that file and I'll see how much it can be reduced in size.

  6. For what it's worth, I have had two instances where I got the OP's message.  Both times I thought it was time to reboot, just in case, only to see when I restarted that I had some pending Microsoft updates.  Once restarted, those same plans let me open camera views without problem.  So I suspect some updates temporarily interfere with programs that make heavy use of the video cards.

  7. Hi Eric,

     

    Signature updated.  The PDF was not meant to be, was aiming for the image of, but screwed up.  BTW, thanks for always being here; do you ever sleep?

     

    Not sure I understand your suggestion.  Increasing the 'wall width' will not shift the railing on the stairway or balcony base, which is what I'm after; and BTW, how to you get to that DBX for a staircase?.  I may have missed the essence of your message, it is late, sorry.

     

    • Like 1
  8. I have a balcony I need to reproduce where the railings (platform & stairs) need to be centered on the posts supporting the roof.  See attached.  I can offset the newels, but the railing won't follow.  I can shift the railings but the balcony and stairs will shrink/expand (BTW, what's the use of offsetting newels?).  I've looked at all the options, but dead end.

     

    I know I can 'fudge' this by 'constructing objects' to get the result, but should I need to do this?  Simple solution?

    X12 9 Kay-2 front balcony.pdf

  9. A few months ago, I would have replied that there is nothing more dependable than a hard wired CAT5/6.  That was before I personally experienced wireless 5Ghz at .4 GB/s from my cable/ethernet provider.  I now have no problem accepting wireless connectivity ... within a house.  Unless you have 4 simultaneous gaming teenagers, local wireless bandwidth should not be a problem with a .5 or 1 GB uplink to your provider.  If you do have 4 simultaneous gaming teenagers, you'll probably need a 10GB/s uplink.  But that is beyond what is needed in terms of connectivity within a house.

     

    I now find that the cost of adding hard-wired receptacles plus the wiring and terminating (time & material) in a new build has a financial impact.  My experience is that AV can add up to 5-10 devices needing ethernet connectivity: placing a switch/router downstream to your cable/ethernet provider coax/fiber handles the local load just find in general.

     

    We've already seen the disappearance of RJ11 outlets everywhere because of wireless telephone systems.

     

    Wireless is catching up.