CV-reno
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Posts posted by CV-reno
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11 hours ago, glennw said:
This is a bug that goes back to when wall caps were introduced.
I reported it as a bug way back then, but it still isn't fixed.
I will report it again.
Thanks.
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12 hours ago, Chopsaw said:
It would likely be easier to use a molding or even an offset room molding if the structure is a single room. However there is something else that I can't really explain the logic of. You can create a pony wall that is the same as the main wall but slightly shorter and then apply your wall cap and use the offsets to position it and it seems to work.
Great advice, as usual, thanks!
Edit: Tried the pony & cap. The cap extended over the garage door, but not enough to join the adjoining caps, leaving an important and visible gap. I finally resorted to the traditional patch: P-solid box:
But that brought some other issues in camera view using sun angles (adjust sunlight):
- Morning sun
- Mid-afternoon sun:
The P-solid and the regular wall caps on either sides have the same material properties:
Go figer. Doable, but not easy. Why so much pain when this was reported before?
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See attached test plan. It seems whenever a door is introduced in a wall with a cap, the cap will be removed over the door. Not so if a window is introduced. I even tried converting the garage door into a window symbol, but CA knew better and still removed the cap over it. What's the magic parameter?
I went through parameters, help and forum search, no explanation.
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5 hours ago, solver said:
Your comment above is what is called hijacking. You find a thread that is very slightly related to your question, then add it to that already existing thread, when it's best to start a new Topic and ask your question there.
Doing so helps keep the forum organized, and helps when people are searching for answers.
Comments may be deleted via the 3 dots to the top right.
I'm really sorry to have apparently hijacked a thread where the OP asked about a screen door and I posted about issues around a sliding screen door, hoping Joey might have some suggestions.
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Gets complicated when adding a sliding screen door to the outside an existing sliding patio door. Need a wall offset (2.5" in my case), panels 0 left 1 right, no casing, no lintel, no jamb. If you adjust any door parameter, panels get reset so you need to go set again. And you need to show the screen door closed or else the glass door exterior casing adjusts to the screen door. I may be missing something here, help me out.
Just wish screen doors would be an option for sliding doors and let CA adjust everything.
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9 hours ago, Alaskan_Son said:
This site (especially with a pro subscription) )has a pretty amazing and ridiculously extensive collection of both 2D and 3D stuff that would likely fit the bill for you.
The site seems to require a Pro account to d/l. How were you able to d/l without one?
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On 1/7/2021 at 5:19 PM, AvoyeDesign said:
I just discovered today that a 60KB PDF file I've imported into a layout causes the PDF file I print FROM the layout to be 17,000KB larger than if the imported PDF file is not included! What gives?
Not the ideal solution, but have you tried 'optimizing' the resulting PDF from layout? Post that file and I'll see how much it can be reduced in size.
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How many times have any of us had to save to a previous version? It comes down to probability of use -vs- effort to implement.
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Depends how fancy you want to get, but look into Cyberlink's Power Director here.
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For what it's worth, I have had two instances where I got the OP's message. Both times I thought it was time to reboot, just in case, only to see when I restarted that I had some pending Microsoft updates. Once restarted, those same plans let me open camera views without problem. So I suspect some updates temporarily interfere with programs that make heavy use of the video cards.
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Hi Eric,
Signature updated. The PDF was not meant to be, was aiming for the image of, but screwed up. BTW, thanks for always being here; do you ever sleep?
Not sure I understand your suggestion. Increasing the 'wall width' will not shift the railing on the stairway or balcony base, which is what I'm after; and BTW, how to you get to that DBX for a staircase?. I may have missed the essence of your message, it is late, sorry.
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I have a balcony I need to reproduce where the railings (platform & stairs) need to be centered on the posts supporting the roof. See attached. I can offset the newels, but the railing won't follow. I can shift the railings but the balcony and stairs will shrink/expand (BTW, what's the use of offsetting newels?). I've looked at all the options, but dead end.
I know I can 'fudge' this by 'constructing objects' to get the result, but should I need to do this? Simple solution?
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A few months ago, I would have replied that there is nothing more dependable than a hard wired CAT5/6. That was before I personally experienced wireless 5Ghz at .4 GB/s from my cable/ethernet provider. I now have no problem accepting wireless connectivity ... within a house. Unless you have 4 simultaneous gaming teenagers, local wireless bandwidth should not be a problem with a .5 or 1 GB uplink to your provider. If you do have 4 simultaneous gaming teenagers, you'll probably need a 10GB/s uplink. But that is beyond what is needed in terms of connectivity within a house.
I now find that the cost of adding hard-wired receptacles plus the wiring and terminating (time & material) in a new build has a financial impact. My experience is that AV can add up to 5-10 devices needing ethernet connectivity: placing a switch/router downstream to your cable/ethernet provider coax/fiber handles the local load just find in general.
We've already seen the disappearance of RJ11 outlets everywhere because of wireless telephone systems.
Wireless is catching up.
sliding window open direction
in General Q & A
Posted
I find I have to go through every kind of opening in the default settings to set that parameter. Would have been nice to have a 'global' value for this, still allowing an override on each opening, or maybe I missed it ?