KnotSquare

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Everything posted by KnotSquare

  1. David, Fences and Railings is missing from my Materials Library. See the images in my initial message. I do not have this... I had to search fences to get it to show up in my Materials Library, but if you look at the other images, it does not show up in the Library when I try to select it as a railing default. It used to be there. Seems an update has made it dissappear. Going to do a full reboot and see if now that I have made it appear in the Library Browser if it will follow through in other parts of the software. Mark
  2. Watching the video "Adding Glass or Cable Rail Panels to Stairs" on YouTube because I thought I was doing something wrong. When I type "cable" into the search, cable railings did not come up. There was no "Fences and Railings" category in my Library. I searched for "fence" and got the image below, first attachment. Now, I wanted to set this up as my default for the project. Again, there is no "Fences and Railings" listed in the folders. As you can see, searching the word fence did not help here as shown in the attachment "Fence Search in Defaults". I did update my libraries before doing all this. Any suggestions?
  3. Got it. It was the Ceiling Below setting when looking at the Structure tab for the 2nd Level.
  4. Not understanding the Garage Ceiling height. The client asked me to extend the garage out 10' to create a covered Balcony for her Office. I am unable to figure out why the ceiling dropped under the balcony. I have messed with heights in the structure tab, but they seem correct. In the Garage I intend to support the Office with 11-7/8" wood I-joists. I do not understand where it is getting the 5 1/2" setting for the Ceiling Structure. So, I went into the default settings and set the roof members to 11 7/8" depth. I did an auto rebuild and got this error message: Adams C6.zip
  5. Color worked, thank you. Attached is a compressed file of the model reduced to the Garage. Adams C6 Garage Issue.zip
  6. I reduced my model to just the garage and it remains 29MB, so can't offer the model up. Here are screen shots: Upper Level Plan View Lower Level Plan with Section at ridge Perspective View
  7. I am not sure how to turn color off or on. Colors do show in a back clipped cross section. Mark
  8. Both my reference layers and my CAD Default layer come out black even though I set them to red. Ideas?
  9. Eric, No worries. I have been plating with this roof for so long and setting rediculous heights, when I turned Auto back on it is a tower! If you want to see the intention, in the floor plan, double click on S1 by the window wall in the Great Room. It has an AutoCAD overlay. If not, thanks for pointing out what should have been obvious. Mark
  10. Eric, Not sure how it turned off, but it was AutoRebuild being off the entire time. Can't believe I missed that one. Mark
  11. Something definitely screwy is going on. I did as you said and the entry roof and the wings went up, leaving the only roof I wanted to change in place.
  12. If I use tranform/replicate, will it turn off my automatic roof build? I try not to do that until I am as far along in design as I can get.
  13. I got there easy enough. I was just asking if I can select only the center section that is 12:12 and leave the wings at 8:12 alone. In this case, erasing the wings is a non-issue as I have not done any design work there yet. If I learn how to just change the center section I will know something new for when I am further along in design.
  14. and Baseline Height was locked. the main roof is 12:12. The wings are 8:12. Easier to just delete the wings, fix the Cathedral and bring the wings back in (that have no design to them yet at all) or how would I just change the center section?
  15. +Under Edit, do not see this. Please direct me to where I can find this function. Thank you, Mark
  16. Under Edit, do not see this. Please direct me to where I can find this function. Thank you, Mark
  17. I seem unable to change the roof height, ceiling, etc. I have tried defaults, by room, etc. I need to raise it. If you open the model and see S1, GRID 5-6 WINDOW WALL INT, open that view and there is an block created in AutoCAD to help me determine where I needed the heights to end up being I am not using conventional framing or insulation techniques on this home. The walls are 2x6 @ 16" OC, but inside of that is a true timber frame that will carry the roof. I did put together a video that explains a lot if you find you have the time and to want to know my goal. It is at this address: (ok, it embedded it) The arched timber frame trusses in the video where not what the client wanted and where removed in case they were blocking movement. If you look at S1, the new style is shown as well as explained in this video. Just cannot get the roof to move and do not understand why. Mark Farrar Fisher Concept 2.plan
  18. Not sure about this little gem here, but maybe that will straighten itself out once the cabinets are next to each other.
  19. Eric, Sorry, had to take my car in to get the snow tires off. Seems late, but this is Butte and it even snowed a bit yesterday. Thank you for pointing that out in Accessories. It was the front toe kick behind the feet that I could not locate. Mark
  20. On my train station project i am creating a bar where traffic will be heavy and spills in a commercial setting often. Adding feet to cabinets to add to the historic look of this design is easy, but reality dictates that I will want a toe kick behind those feet to ease the staff's cleaning efforts at the end of each day. I cannot find a setting, article or other that had addressed this in the past. This is the general idea of what i wish to accomplish. Is this a setting available in cabinets, or do I have to add a solid object for show?
  21. Gene, I have a little more work to do, but this is what I did as well as some great tips for those that like a challenge.
  22. Kbird, you are a good friend to take the time you did on this. I had to set this project down as I had a meeting at noon today with the owner of the Train Station. I am writing as I go through everyone's comments and applying what I am being shown on the other screen. I too try to design the entire roof in Autobuild if it is possible. I got a little rushed here and needed a product before I left the home that day. Going back, I had used the parallel/perpendicular tool, but I am still missing something. As you can see below, some items were fixed, but it is nice to know where to find this information. I had no clue this data was in this field and would have never thought to look into "Selected Line". Surprised to see that there are editable fields in there. Jason, I just now applied the parallel/perpendicular tool to the red 45degree CAD Default line. I love this in RED as it really shows up great during model building. It can always be changed to black for plotting of any lines are drawn as part of the CD set. When I applied these to the valleys I forgot that the roofs have slightly different pitches and it blew up in my face a bit. I still think it may be a step in the right direction however. As for the fishing pole, I used the technique I learned at the beginning of this reply and changed the 90.xxxxx side of the ridge to 90 degrees. The roof would not join, so I pulled each side apart a bit and rejoined them: Rob, What are "grid snaps"? I may have to look that one up. I was using the parallel/perpendicular tool in the ridges, but not the valleys. Likely this was due to the face that I was in the moment and had not stepped away for a few days. Now I have done so to the valleys and with intersecting ridges of roofs with different pitches, it made things worse, but I am learning along the way. All, First, I am now a bit gun shy to turn autobuild roofs back on as I know it will screw up my Sunroom roof. Ideas? I truly try to stick with autobuild roofs 'til the bitter end. I just turned them off on that really fun Train Station job I am working on. Now I have to add a Crow's Nest/Cuploa and a shed roof nest to it into the model. The client meeting went very well and she is so pleased to see this historic building in 3D. Second, any tips on the best practice to get my fascia heights the same? I can do this, but I may go into the specifications of the Sunroom and copy/paste them into OneNote for this project so I can turn on autobuild roofs and hopefully restore the Sunroom without too much pain. I may record that and post it to my YouTube channel. There is some good stuff on there if you also use AutoCAD and ReCap to build models in Chief. I combine all 3 softwares to get things done. Keep in mind that I have no time to edit, so some is slow or I may forget for a minute to switch the screen in OBS Studio. I try to hit pause often and may record my steps to try to repair this roof. OneNote is a dream software, so if anyone would like me to do a video on how to power-use this software just make that request and I will do so to return the favor for all the help I receive here. David, Figured out how to turn off grid snaps. Thanks for letting me know that was an option. This may have been useful in the Train Station Project, but I would have to set the increment. All, I prefer that nothing in my plans is fractioned less than 1/8". This is from framing days. Over the buzz of tools we had a system to call out measurements for the cut man on the ground. If you wanted a board cut to 8'-6 3/4" you would call out "Eight foot, six and six". Like rebar it was all in eighths. Six Eighths = three quarter. If you need 8'-6 5/16" for stain grade molding or cabinetry work, it would be "Eight foot, six and three minus" or "eight foot, six and two plus". Also, for the guys in the field, use 1/8", 1/4" or 1/2" scales whenever possible. Carpenters do not carry around a scale and use their tape measure to scale off of drawings. Time to get to it and see if I can fix this mess. I will record it for the humor if nothing else. Thanks to everyone that chimed in on this topic. You, as always, are a wealth of knowledge. Mark Farrar Certified Professional Building Designer Knot Square Design, LLC www.knotsquare.us (DOT "US") or you will either get the furniture maker on the east coast or the strange website that I did not build, but they sure want to sell it to me!