KnotSquare

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Everything posted by KnotSquare

  1. Glenn, I agree. With a saveas, can I just delete them all to let Auto Build Roofs take over based on room and wall information or are there special steps necessary to re-invoke those functions? Thank you, Mark
  2. Eric, I have read about them, but still find it confusing and do not know if adding them is what keeps me from changing a roof height by opening a floor how. See the Patio off the Sitting Room (Master Bedroom). It is pretty easy to spot that problem as the outdoor space does have a roof over it in the dialogue box only. I have been considering a SaveAs and deleting all the Roof, Baseline Polylines. Your thoughts. I have other designs with complex roofs that I have never used this feature on. It is 144 MB. I will upload it to my YouTube channel and send a link as soon as it is complete. Thank you.
  3. This explanation is brief as I made a quick video to better point out the issues attached below. I have had this close a few times, especially once I discovered "Roofs, Baseline Polylines". Using those I fixed a lot of uses, but then it seems that when I change a wall's Roof Options from Hip Wall to Full Gable Wall or visa-versa nothing happens. Easy case in point is the Full Gable Wall just to the right of the stairs on Level 1. I have it set to Hip Wall, but it needs to be a Hip Wall. Changing it had no effect and I am trying to get this at least back to where I had it before I turn off Auto Build Roofs. As mentioned in the video, what I did find while turning on and off layers is the Roofs, Overhang Area layer. I have not attempted to use this yet as I was hoping to hear back from someone that might put me on the correct path prior to messing things up further with newly discovered layers. Thank you, Mark Roof Help.mp4 Fisher Concept 9 (Auto) Stripped.zip
  4. Steve Nestor, Great information on the eaves, especially understanding how soffit works. I had already determined that using subfascia was not going to work and did just as you suggested. As for the furring or firring, not sure which is correct actually and I have been in this industry since 1994, the 1x4s hold the mineral wool in place. You run the bottom course and then attached 1x4s and slide in the remaining insulation behind them for a quick assembly and it saves you on buying Rockwool's plastic, large washer "buttons". I prefer (2) layers of 1.5" over a single layer of 3" so I can lap the seams for better air-tightness. Comfortboard 80 now comes with a slightly tapered edge, so they like to state that a single layer is plenty air tight. I guess it just depends on your client. On the house I have been trying to resolve in this thread, we are going for PassivHaus standards, so (2) layers is better. There are images on Rockwool's site, but you can see plenty of damaged edges either due to shipping or builders not handling with care. Thanks for your tips, Mark
  5. Michael Leach, Here is the full set of solutions as I have them so far. If you use AutoCAD, I would be happy to supply you with .dwg files. Anything for an attempt at solving my Chief problems. Hit me up at mark@knottystudios.com. I would like to talk Florida a bit with you. Considering Snowbird action. Thanks Michael Mineral Wool Perfect Wall ISO Det-Layout1.pdf Perfect Wall Common Truss @ Top Plate Connection-KS Calc Sheet.pdf Perfect Wall Rafter System @ Top Plate Connection-KS Calc Sheet.pdf Perfect Wall Rafter System + Applied Eave @ Top Plate Connection-KS Calc Sheet.pdf
  6. That message was four hours ago with to images in the text body and the detials were named, "Perfect Wall Rafter System + Applied Eave @ Top Plate Connection-KS Calc Sheet.pdf" and "Mineral Wool Perfect Wall ISO Det-Layout1.pdf" if you are interested in my method of doing this in the field. Now I just need to represent it in Chief, but I am close.
  7. Steve, If you view the attached details attached as PDFs you will see that the soffit will show. I do believe that if I want it dimensionally correct, and not directly connected to eliminate thermal bridging through the rafters I will have to model them independently and paste them on. The work around for presentation will be to fuss with depths on the overhang, height of the soffit, etc. to at least appear correct in the Perspective Full Overview for determining window heights, rendering, etc. to please the client. If you know any shortcuts, please share. Thanks, Mark
  8. Glenn, You nailed it, thank you! Teach me to always look in Defaults... Mark
  9. rgardener, That is now set, but the rafter tails are still pointy. Do you know why? Mark Fisher Roof & Timber Frame.plan
  10. This is getting closer. I am going to attach a couple of custom details developed for how I am managing the continuous insulation. I realize that Chief will never be able to model this automatically, but using enclosed soffits, I feel I should be able to achieve the look. See “Mineral Wool Perfect Wall ISO Det-Layout1.pdf” & “Perfect Wall Rafter System + Applied Eave @ Top Plate Connection.pdf”. So, I did as both Chopsaw and Steve suggested and whalla, I have the rafters in place. They Full length however and do not have a flat cut bottom. I do not know how to set this. See “Pointy Rafter Tails.png” and “Rafter & Timber Section.png”. To achieve the look I am after, to scale, the only thing I can think of is no overhang and build these manually to match the detail, but I feel this is good enough at this time unless someone knows a shortcut. Thanks everyone. Really appreciate the insight, Mark Perfect Wall Rafter System + Applied Eave @ Top Plate Connection-KS Calc Sheet.pdf Mineral Wool Perfect Wall ISO Det-Layout1.pdf
  11. Found it, thanks Chopsaw and Steve
  12. Can this be found in defaults, not just a single roof?
  13. Michael, No, I am happy with the plum cut. It is not trimmed at the bottom as the grey fascia is. I also do not have 2x14 rafters in the Perspective Framing Overview. It seems to be one solid block of wood, not framing members. I cannot tell if my timber frame beams is confusing the framing program or what is going on. I also expect a grey subfascia per my default settings. Thanks for the compliment on the Perfect Wall System. I have come up with my own method of continuing the insulation to the underside of the roof sheathing. It is nice to work on homes that are for folks that seem aware of the need to reduce fossil fuel consumption. Mark
  14. I have a home where we are building a timber frame inside of a conventionally framed home. I have created a small model to figure out how to get the Great Room roof to behave the way I want prior to transferring this data into the actual model. I am running into issues with the 2x14 rafters at 24" o.c. As can be seen in this view, they are turning into a solid block with the bottom outside edge coming to a point instead of flattening out as the fascia board (grey) does. I think I have the default settings correct, but I guess not... (See "Default Framing Settings.png") I created a custom layer set named Framing Layer Set + Post & Beams to show and duplicate the timber frame members. The timber frame outside the building is designed for the covered deck for the view side of the home with a deep overhang. See "Frmg + Post & Beam.png". I have also attached this small model for trouble shooting. Thanks for any insight. Mark Fisher Roof & Timber Frame.plan
  15. Solver, Stepped away for a bit. Somehow, maybe an undo, it did just become a CAD object again.
  16. Note my toolbar below does not have the "Convert Selected to Symbol" available.
  17. MarkMc, Using a cabinet seems to be out as the corner where this goes is at 45 degrees. I am unable to create corner cabinets in corners other than 90 degree corners.
  18. Regardner, I have created my solid as I am in X14, so polyline solid commands have really changed. When selected, the "create a symbol" icon does not appear.
  19. Is it possible to change the shape of a Shelf from a rectangle so it will still show up correctly in my Materials List, or is my only option to use a Polyline Solid?
  20. Thank you. I think when I was starting to lay out trusses I miss took the only invisible wall line for a truss. I do wish that Chief would change to the standards of drafting from the days of hand drafting. It is very clear. __________ . __________ <-- example of truss was a line dot line so you knew where each started and stopped. Similar with beams __________ ___ __________ Can't get AutoCAD to adopt it, but have a quick way to trick that program. Always appreciate your assistance. I was blinded by my own mistake. Mark
  21. This is very strange, but I noticed that my base building height was 109-1 1/8" and not the 97-1 1/8" specified by my client. When I go to select a room, it is broken up into several pieces as can be seen in this snipping. I have searched, but can not find any like cases. I have included the project file zipped. The one I made the clipping of is from C1 Final.zip. The other compressed file is a backup I made prior to discovering that I had a room height issue and has the intended roof design on it, just 12" too high. Thanks to anyone that can assist. Mark C1 w Trusses.zip C1 Final.zip
  22. I followed your video. It worked. In Newels/Balusters there is a Panels area with a Library.. button. The railing I wanted shows up there as it does in my Library Browser. It is supported! Sweet. Thank you. Mark
  23. Full reboot had no effect. I have searched for this, but cannot seem to find any similar issues except that Solver says he believes he may have seen it before. I have tried a few searches, changing terms, but cannot narrow down under 5,000 answers. I have the same inquiry into Chief Architect Support, but they are gone for the day. Will just have to replace them one at a time until I get a solution. What is alarming is what other folders might I be missing? Mark
  24. Not the issue. Notice my Library Browser on the far right has this item. When I try to set it as the panel default for my interior stairs it is not available. "Fences and Materials" is not available inside of the default Library Materials.