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About KnotSquare

  • Birthday 06/07/1967

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  • Location
    Butte, Montana
  • Interests
    Architecture and Construction

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  1. Not sure about this little gem here, but maybe that will straighten itself out once the cabinets are next to each other.
  2. Eric, Sorry, had to take my car in to get the snow tires off. Seems late, but this is Butte and it even snowed a bit yesterday. Thank you for pointing that out in Accessories. It was the front toe kick behind the feet that I could not locate. Mark
  3. On my train station project i am creating a bar where traffic will be heavy and spills in a commercial setting often. Adding feet to cabinets to add to the historic look of this design is easy, but reality dictates that I will want a toe kick behind those feet to ease the staff's cleaning efforts at the end of each day. I cannot find a setting, article or other that had addressed this in the past. This is the general idea of what i wish to accomplish. Is this a setting available in cabinets, or do I have to add a solid object for show?
  4. Gene, I have a little more work to do, but this is what I did as well as some great tips for those that like a challenge.
  5. Kbird, you are a good friend to take the time you did on this. I had to set this project down as I had a meeting at noon today with the owner of the Train Station. I am writing as I go through everyone's comments and applying what I am being shown on the other screen. I too try to design the entire roof in Autobuild if it is possible. I got a little rushed here and needed a product before I left the home that day. Going back, I had used the parallel/perpendicular tool, but I am still missing something. As you can see below, some items were fixed, but it is nice to know where to find this information. I had no clue this data was in this field and would have never thought to look into "Selected Line". Surprised to see that there are editable fields in there. Jason, I just now applied the parallel/perpendicular tool to the red 45degree CAD Default line. I love this in RED as it really shows up great during model building. It can always be changed to black for plotting of any lines are drawn as part of the CD set. When I applied these to the valleys I forgot that the roofs have slightly different pitches and it blew up in my face a bit. I still think it may be a step in the right direction however. As for the fishing pole, I used the technique I learned at the beginning of this reply and changed the 90.xxxxx side of the ridge to 90 degrees. The roof would not join, so I pulled each side apart a bit and rejoined them: Rob, What are "grid snaps"? I may have to look that one up. I was using the parallel/perpendicular tool in the ridges, but not the valleys. Likely this was due to the face that I was in the moment and had not stepped away for a few days. Now I have done so to the valleys and with intersecting ridges of roofs with different pitches, it made things worse, but I am learning along the way. All, First, I am now a bit gun shy to turn autobuild roofs back on as I know it will screw up my Sunroom roof. Ideas? I truly try to stick with autobuild roofs 'til the bitter end. I just turned them off on that really fun Train Station job I am working on. Now I have to add a Crow's Nest/Cuploa and a shed roof nest to it into the model. The client meeting went very well and she is so pleased to see this historic building in 3D. Second, any tips on the best practice to get my fascia heights the same? I can do this, but I may go into the specifications of the Sunroom and copy/paste them into OneNote for this project so I can turn on autobuild roofs and hopefully restore the Sunroom without too much pain. I may record that and post it to my YouTube channel. There is some good stuff on there if you also use AutoCAD and ReCap to build models in Chief. I combine all 3 softwares to get things done. Keep in mind that I have no time to edit, so some is slow or I may forget for a minute to switch the screen in OBS Studio. I try to hit pause often and may record my steps to try to repair this roof. OneNote is a dream software, so if anyone would like me to do a video on how to power-use this software just make that request and I will do so to return the favor for all the help I receive here. David, Figured out how to turn off grid snaps. Thanks for letting me know that was an option. This may have been useful in the Train Station Project, but I would have to set the increment. All, I prefer that nothing in my plans is fractioned less than 1/8". This is from framing days. Over the buzz of tools we had a system to call out measurements for the cut man on the ground. If you wanted a board cut to 8'-6 3/4" you would call out "Eight foot, six and six". Like rebar it was all in eighths. Six Eighths = three quarter. If you need 8'-6 5/16" for stain grade molding or cabinetry work, it would be "Eight foot, six and three minus" or "eight foot, six and two plus". Also, for the guys in the field, use 1/8", 1/4" or 1/2" scales whenever possible. Carpenters do not carry around a scale and use their tape measure to scale off of drawings. Time to get to it and see if I can fix this mess. I will record it for the humor if nothing else. Thanks to everyone that chimed in on this topic. You, as always, are a wealth of knowledge. Mark Farrar Certified Professional Building Designer Knot Square Design, LLC (DOT "US") or you will either get the furniture maker on the east coast or the strange website that I did not build, but they sure want to sell it to me!
  6. My goodness that is a beautiful ceiling in your drawing Kbird1!
  7. I have been using AutoCAD since 1988, so I am quite comfortable there and on a small project where I am not having a lidar scan done, will run over with a laser tape measure and quickly nab a floor plan in seconds, return home, trace it in Chief and see what I get for a roof. That pasted funky... Autodesk has AutoCAD, super slow for 3D of any consequence and Architecture, made up of flat images that would never make a client say, geez, I with to build that! The use of the two together gives a brilliant result for me and when I can get autobuild roofs to work to the bitter end, I feel I can produce a pretty good materials list. Put in the Lat/Long and a good north arrow and the results are spectacular. Check out this as-built: The client cares little about the trim where the addition is NOT going, but I am concerned about some artifacts and a crack down the middle of the roof where I am going to add onto, the gable where the single hung is in the pictures above. Zooming in, I cannot get these roofs to close: Oddly, no error message appears when I try to correct what appears to be an error to me. Just go around to the back of the house and I seem to have a house that is going fishing: I uploaded the video on my YouTube Channel from this site visit when tried to work out the roofs. 2 warnings, it is long as I do not have time to edit videos and secondly, it is the first time I have placed my ugly mug in a video. I do give up a lot of my methodology. There is plenty of work for all and hoping to build interest from youngsters in my home mining town. I also uploaded the model for anyone wanting to see the guts of this project. Mark Farrar Certified Professional Building Designer Knot Square Design, LLC Longtin C1.plan
  8. First let me say that I am working with this guy: Short on words, long on talent. No phones allowed in his shop, but what a craftsman. We are building a timber frame home in Butte, Montana and he said he would do the shop drawings by hand. I have this great tool, so I though I would see if I could create a dimensioned cut list for him, right down to the overlap at the peak where the tenons will go through the mortises. Chief seems weak in its truss editing capabilities. I am unable to place a decorative post below the bottom chord, although I can trace it out in CAD lines (shown in red). This will not convert to a polyline solid to even represent what I am after. More frustrating is the ends can only be brought in, not squared off. If I move those red cad lines in from each end to the appropriate location I cannot cut them vertically. Any suggestions aside from creating a completely fake truss with polyline solids alone or primitives. I know how to create that, but honestly, I would be better off to create that in AutoCAD and import it. Thanks for any help. I uploaded the plan at this stage in case anyone was interested in investigating it further. Just getting started with general layout and setting the grid. Wall design is based upon "The Perfect Wall" and we are going for Passive House standards. Fisher Concept 1.plan
  9. Thank you all for terrific input. I have started with a first sheet that worked with some of your suggestions, thank you. I will find out more as I develop further sheets. Mark
  10. That sounds like a solid solution. One extra template per category, but it will keep me with a method a PE I went to school with have developed since going out on my own in 1996. He is exclusively AutoCAD. I don't want to ask him to rewrite his macros to meet Chief's deficiencies. They are getting better. Loving X14 so far.
  11. Ooh, Ooh! Closer yet. Do you know how to control the first number? I am getting A1.1 instead of A1.0 - Coversheet, then A1.1 - Architectural Notes, A1.2 - who knows. Then I will create a set of A2.# for plans and elevations. Another template for Structural Sheets e.g. S1.0 and on as above. Then another for MEP and another for schedules, etc. depending on if it is a home or a business. So far my record is a building at 130 North Main St, Butte, MT 59701. It is the old Hennessy Building, original plans printed in 1895. 6 stories at 16,000 sf per floor plus a basement and 7 levels of underground parking. If there is one thing we know how to do in Butte, it is dig holes. Thanks for the terrific help. I will continue to get to where the digit after the decimal point can start with zero. You have been great and Karma shall solve your digital issues. Mark Farrar Knot Square Design, LLC
  12. I tried this: A%page%.%#% and got this: (see attachment) Close, but no cigar. Getting there.
  13. This is my first time using layouts. I still produce my working drawings in AutoCAD, importing more and more from CA. You lost me a bit. I inserted the macro: A%page%. Where would I insert the ".#"? Am I using the wrong macro for this? Too simple? Appreciate your input. If you prefer, please call at 406.497.3666. Mark
  14. Inevitably I need to squeeze in a page. Having decimal point followed by a single digit is a great solution. Framing pages for instance can be S3.0, S3.1, S3.4 and when I need another page for my unknown number of wall framing details I can easily add s3.5 without much work to the Sheet Index. Is this possible? S1.0 is the GSN and S2.- are for foundations. Love to find an answer. Thanks ahead, Mark
  15. Mick, I was actually point you to the one that I found that has no issues that I have found so far. Check out that link. Mark