ACADuser

I though I had too but could not find the article.

Oh,I was looking at the 850Pro for warranty info.

Product Capacity Product Warranty Policy (Period or TBW)

830 Series 64GB/128GB/256GB/512GB 3 years

840 Series 120GB/250GB/500GB 3 years

840 PRO Series 128GB/256GB/512GB 5 years (73 TBW for enterprise applications)

840 EVO Series 120GB/250GB/500GB 3 years

850 PRO Series 128GB/256GB/512GB/1TB 10 Years or 150TBW

Must have miss read the life span thing.

You give up some longevity in Rapid mode but with a 10 year warranty who cares.

Perry,

Did you read the article Steve posted. Bottom of 1 page talks about a software boost for speed. Rapid mode. Have you tried it?

Wow, great info Steve.

Thanks so much for you time & expertise.

Yes the power supply was a weak link. It died earlier this year so I now have a 500+ watt from CompUSA.

I just took a big hit buying CA last month and it runs OK. Slightly longer load time than ACAD2006.

So a new box will have to wait.

I am not concerned by start up times. I leave my computer on 24/7 and restart every 3 day mostly.

I think I will get the SSD 850 512

I have 296gb used on my 1TB C: drive. I use the 2TB as back up for my & my wife's computer. Actually 2 each 2TB drives & a Black X External Drive Dock.

So I keep one of the 2TB drives in my fire proof safe.

Maybe the RAID1 would be a better choice with the SSD as C: drive and the two 2TB drives as the RAID set up.

Knock wood, I haven't had any issues with the ATI although my Wife's computer has.

I bought Dell Refurbished & have been happy with them.

I may go the build your own route next time.

I see the 1 TB EVO is 450 & pro is 600+ 

Wow, that's quite a hit for Pro. My question is would you be better off with  512 Pro or a 1TB EVO?

stevg,

I see the Samsung 840 Pro SSD for $300 and the 850 pro for $350.

Is it worth the $50 for the 850? (both 512)

I have an older box, 2011 vintage, see specs in attached pictures.

Seems to run OK except for Ray Trace but I don't do much of that yet.

So I guess the SSD will still be a good investment?

Thanks for your time & a great post!

Thanks for the detailed explanation, I'll try it later today.

Thanks Perry.

I'm going to quit for today as I'm pulling out what hair I have left.

I think I may remove all the roof and start over. maybe do the thin 2nd floor trick.

My plan is attached & the roof looks like I want it to look but the walls & molding are fighting me.

The main problem area is the left side of the entry where the little roof is. I seem to be having trouble controlling the plate height after the fact.

The design is driven by a need to not use the hum drum roof from right to left as in my earlier design.

I know the break up causes some complicated roofing but that is what I need to do. Per the Architect.

And the left upper gable actually extends right of lower gable and that wall is part of the entry.

Take a look if you feel like it.

BellaVistaLot3-r2.plan

I am assuming you are talking about the gable wall.  If this is the case I need to know if the block wall has a sill plate on top and if there is a rafter on sill plate to roof sheathing and if you want whatever finish is on block wall to go to underside of roof sheathing.

 

There are many possible details of how to finish this,  what does the detail look like.  Can you give me a detail of this?

The actual construction is a pre manufactured gable truss that sits on the cmu wall, no plate.

If the wind load was too great then a cmu wall would extends up with a rake beam to cap the wall.

I think you have a problem with your Wall Definition.  You indicate the exterior material is stucco but it's 7-5/8" thick and evidently you want to use CMU with a stucco coating on the exterior.

 

You should add an exterior layer to the wall definition. 

 

1" Stucco

7-5/8" CMU

3/4" Air Gap

1/2" Drywall

 

Make Layer 2 the Main LayerWall Definition.JPG

Ha! funny man. I guess you aren't buying the stucco.

Stucco is lucky if you get 5/8, here well specify :

STUCCO NOTE : ALL REFERENCES TO "STUCCO" ON THESE PRINTS SHALL BE

INTERPRETED AS MEANING "DECORATIVE CEMENTIOUS  FINISH" , SHALL BE

LESS THAN 5/8" IN THICKNESS AND COMPLY WITH ASTM C 926 &  ASTM C 1063

And all dimensions are to outside of block so stucco is ignored for dimensions & at typical 3/8" is not worth showing.

Just my take.

This is getting interesting

See attached, looking at more soffits around the house I see this. Doubled freeze.

The larger one is from the roof plane that I added.

Where is the smaller one coming from?

But what if the OP wants 9-1/4" rafters?

That fixed it for me.

I guess somewhere there is a default that I need to change.

I have the same problem with my 8" stucco wall.

BellaVistaLot3-11.plan

The roof plane when parallel to the drywall, i.e. snapped into place did heal the open end.

The cut & drag covers most of the exposed drywall from the interior wall that is extended up to form the gable wall.

There is still a little drywall showing & the Freeze is open. Not a big deal as I won't be zooming in with views used on the plans.

Manually break (line break tool) the outer edge and wrap the corner about 6" or if all else fails a quick poly-line solid cap to the end. Either method should work.

 

DJP

I now how to do a solid but how to break the roof plane in such a way to close the hole?

I can do this with an additional roof plane but not what I wanted.

In elevation you can select the gable wall and drag the gap closed.

See attached, how to close this end?

See attached file with hatches deleted & only hatch outlines remain.

NACC SUITE 118. Level 0.zip

Wow what a mess. That DWG is nothing but hatches, no lines or plines.

Could have used it last week on electrical.

I miss the ENTER to repeat the last command. (ACAD works that way, also has option to use Multiple on most commands)

To me that is more versatile.

OK more dumb questions from the newbie.

I have 5 bar sinks in the medical office and when a schedule is created they show up as "Square [13]"

When I select the sink via select then tab it is a CAD block.

I can select the cabinet & then components  and I see the fixture & can re-label them there.

What I want to do for future insertions of this sink is fix that label in the library object.

Help says I can edit in place with tools i.e. edit it using any of the options in its contextual menu

Can't find a way to edit it. The catalog list it as "Square" under Bar Sinks I can't even change that name.

Do we have access to these objects?

Thanks for the input.

I figured out what is causing the odd elements in the picture posted but not how to correct it.

The porch is a room with invisible exterior walls. Although not seen these walls are driving the roof & ceiling objects.

The Beams that hold the roof up are set back from the exterior of the wall some 6 to 8 inches so the ceiling ( am guessing) is a vaulted ceiling element that is now exposed.

Why it is offset from the top chord of the trusses I haven't figured out.

Spoke too soon, I got the Gable end wall back but no Freeze is showing.

I modified both roof plans to add freeze & shadow boards. I don't know what a shadow board is.  I thought it was the same as a freeze.

OK I solved the attic wall issue. I needed to be in plan view AND in the Attic Level to fix the gable end at the rear.