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Correct, floor /ceiling truss, I stand corrected.

Was taking a break from a project and looking through the forum and saw the question and since there were only comments with no real directions, I thought I would start the man down the path to a point that he could pic up and continue on.

As pointed out by drawzilla,you will have to determine the depth of the joist as required and also set the framing distance and then draw in the first truss and select multiple copy and drag across the plan as needed to complete the floor system.

Have a great day,Ken

I don't see a walkout,Looks like exposed foundation to me. Can't see around the corner though.

 Have a Happy Day,Ken

Electromen,

Make the exposed walls ,pony walls and put your brick on the upper wall, then adjust the upper wall down to show brick as needed.

Specify main wall type for lower wall and make upper wall 4" less to allow for the 4" for brick.

 Have a great week,Ken

Click Build,Click framing from dropdown list,Click Floor /roof truss,Click floor truss and specify in dbx as you like.

Have a great week,Ken

I understand chief encourages the use of activate and deactivate licenses on line but your situation is exactly the reason I always buy the dongle  even though CA has a long list of  reasons not to.

 Just have to make sure you pack the dongle or dongles when you go to another location.

Have a great week ,Ken

Joey,

Great link. Thanks,Ken

Thanks Joe,Will have to try that.

Working on a plan already started in x-5.

Have only been playing in x-6 to get familiar with new stuff.

Have a great week,Ken

Joe,

Are these for x-5 or x-6? Thank you,Ken

 You are welcome. The roof plane has to be there for it to generate the truss. If the roof plane is cut to the roof plane of the roof coming into it it will generate rafters for a stick built roof with a valley.

tgif,Ken

I have attached the plan with the roof plane adjusted and a pic of the resulting trusses.Ths area for the stairway will have to be ladder framed.

The trussbase plane still needs to be adjusted.

Have a great weekend.Ken  Truss Problem.plan

 Did you run the roof all the way through as if there is no valley coming into it or did you cut the roof to align in the valley?

Looks to be the issue here.Didn't open the plan but I would start there.

    Ken

Hope you don't mind Joe,I downloaded your garage door also.

 Thank you,Ken

We always pour a frost footer to grade on the daylight end and frame with a 2"x6" wall .

As was pointed out not enough fill at the daylight corners to stress the wall.

Have a great weekend,Ken

Best I remember 3-d wouldn't do a roof.Seems I remember doing floor plan and elevation in 3-d then doing roof on drawing board the old way.

 Course that was a while ago and I may be wrong.

                  Ken

I think it should open with an early version of chief but will probably lose a lot as far as textures and etc. are concerned. I started with 3-d home and went to chief with Ver.4 and used some of my early plans for awhile for the contractor I was working for at that time.

Am only running chief as far back as X-1 at this time.

Ken

It has been working for me with one log in.

                  Have a great day,Ken

Thanks, they look great.

                 Have a great week,Ken

10-4 on the extend and fence tool. I was reffering to raising the lookout to the corect height one at a time.If there is a way to raise them all at once I would like that tip.Right on ,a real pain with a complicated roof line.

                   Ken

Sorry If I was misleading in my first post. It is the lookout to the fly rafter not blocking.You are correct in that the blocking would have a gap for each rafter.                                   You could use a single block for each run but you would still have to raisei it up the thickness of the material used for the purlin and extend it to the length of the roof.

              Ken

Scott,

Not using roof blocking.

Using the Lookout to the fly rafters and raising them up 1 1/2". Only drawback is they have to be done individually and it is a slow process ,but I have done a couple metal buildings

and garages in this way 

                      Waitin for the snow to melt,Ken

As I related in my first post.

Have a great week,Ken

Good info Joe.

Thanks,Ken

Glad to see this thread.I was thinking about a pad and stylus but after reading these comments on the subject I think I will put it off awhile.

Rod we must have started about the same time.I started with 3-d home architect and moved up to chief ver.4.

A great week to all,Ken

In our area these are refered to as purlins and are used to attach metal roofing.

What I do is ajust the roof blocking used to tie the fly rafter to the trusses to the space I want the purlin and raise it in the dbx to ajust it to sit on the rafter then drag it the length of the building.

I would think a similar method could be used to get the desired nailers under the truss system.

Hope this is of some help. Have a great week,Ken

Lisa,

Not in a chief library,Don't know aboyt any oyhers,

Have a great weekend,Ken