BFogarty

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Posts posted by BFogarty

  1. Hi,

     

    Can somebody take a look at the door thresholds in the front breezeway entry and the main entry (2nd door inside vestibule), what the heck is up with these things???  

    On top of that, what's up with the little apron under the sill? Looks foolish, and you cannot modify it....and if you uncheck it, then it picture frames the door.....who does that...lol

     

    My main concern is the threshold with the gap in it, the other stuff is just venting :)

     

    Thanks!

     

    BTW, this plan is in X11

    23 Cedar St As-Built X11.plan

  2. 14 minutes ago, Alaskan_Son said:

     

    No reason to pad anything, and you actually don't even need to mull anything.  The key settings are:

    • Sash Depth and inset
    • Frame Depth and Inset
    • Casing Overlap (needs to be negative)

    The biggest downsides are that the window doesn't actually get a framed wrap using this method so you might want to downsize your windows to account for this.  Pick your poison I suppose.  The alternatives take a lot longer.

    Of the three things you mentioned, I adjusted the frame depth.  Visually it looks fine, on the plan view it does show a line in between each window.  I bet if I adjust the Overlap it'll get rid of it.  Thx

  3. 44 minutes ago, solver said:

    Her is one I did some time ago. 3 individual windows.

     

    Note how each window is defined prior to mulling. See the frame sizing and check for any other obvious changes to the defaults.

     

    ct1.thumb.jpg.47de2f3d1d6426682443d3a201b2244c.jpg

     

    mc1.plan

     

    I think I'm getting the idea, just haven't applied it to mine yet.

     

    Although it's a mulled unit, the middle windows need to be adjusted accordingly?

  4. In the window settings, there is only options for a single, double and triple casement windows.....I'm in need of a quad.  The problem with taking 4 singles and mulling them, they are in a 2x10 wall (yes, weird), so the mulled sections look like mini tunnels....not good.  I changed the spacing between mulled to 0", this still left a 1.5" mulled area.  The attached image shows the undesired result.  The second image shows what I'm looking for, except in a Tripple Casement

     

    Tripple Casement.jpg

    Quad Casement.jpg

  5. 16 hours ago, Kbird1 said:

    it's the 1st Time I have seen it reported , but I don't think you "broke" it :) ...unless you can replicate the issue using the Make 2nd floor from 1st Floor Option...

     

    M.

    Yup, that was certainly it.

     

    I wouldn't say I'm a power user, but I've definitely been using this long enough not to have something as silly as that trip me up......but I did!

     

    Thanks again!

  6. 31 minutes ago, Kbird1 said:

     

    I am pretty sure you just made a BLANK 2nd Floor , so when you made the 3rd etc it was also Blank ( since you drew no walls), as it was Copied from the blank floor below , I added one of my own and it was BLANK too , so I deleted everything except floor one and then added a Floor based on Floor One when it asked and all is well :).

    3.thumb.PNG.e99615c0d0c3b07808f7c07576eec05b.PNG

     

     

     Ah ha, thank you!  Really strange about this, never been an issue before

  7. 50 minutes ago, Alaskan_Son said:

     

    I think you found a pretty strange little quirk that I've never noticed before.  Easiest fix IMO is to convert the p-solid to a solid and then explode that solid.  You will then get the reflections.  To make things easier on yourself you can block those faces while they are still selected so you have a single object.  You can then paint the other faces with whatever material you want and possibly convert to symbol or add to library as is. 

     

    I was thinking the same, but just wasn't sure.

     

    The original p-solid I made would've have mirror reflections on all different sides/angles, wasn't sure if the program could support that.

  8. 5 minutes ago, Kbird1 said:

    You are right , for some reason the Poly Solid won't hold the Mirror material , if the Solid isn't rectangular in shape ,

     

    The easy Fix was to add a 1/8" thick 3D Box in Front of the Solid and Rotate it to the same angle as the Solid ... 5° I think?

     

    Since I had it made, I blocked it and then dropped it into a Blank plan and made a symbol out of it for you, hope it helps....

     

    Angled Mirror_MHD.calibz

     

    Capture86.thumb.JPG.5faf7eb5962995622467cc45cfe63b0e.JPG

     

     

     

    That's awesome, thank you very much!

  9. Working on a small bath renovation, the owner is choosing to add some ADA elements.  I am  attempting to create a mirror that angles down, so if a person is in a wheelchair, they'll be able to use it.  Inside the plan I have 2 blocks, one shows a mirror reflection, the other is in a polyline solid that I've created in the shape I'd like to have as a mirror.

     

    When I change the shape to anything other than a square or rectangle, I lose the mirror reflection.

     

    Am I attempting to do something that just isn't going to work?

     

    Plan is attached.

     

    Thanks!

    Kelley_Bath_Renovation.plan

  10. 5 minutes ago, MarkMc said:

    Bob- plan attached with both those options and a third with loose valances and the cabinet blocked.

     

    If you need to get the valances into a cabinet schedule that is a different issue. I just found a new way to do that which makes me happy-posted over in the tips section.

    vanity.plan

    Got it.  Thanks for taking the time to post that Mark!  Appreciate it!

  11. 2 hours ago, MarkMc said:

    You can use feet as William has done and then add a molding to tie them together-bit of a pain to line everything up (vanity on left) Creates extra lines in vector views.

    Easiest is to grab a valance (Huntwood has a good selection)-copy to user library and add in stretch plane. Then drop them in the plan. (vanity on right)

     

    vanity.jpg

    I like the idea on the right.  Is there a way to lock to molding to the cabinet so it's permanently attached?  Thx

  12. probably depends on your plans

    I find this to be the case also. If your build (typically additions)is with conventional lumber and isn't pushing any boundaries,

    most departments will let it through. Once you introduce any type of engineered product, at minimum you'll need a stamp for that/those

    items. Any large additions or full house plans, I just go ahead and get them reviewed and stamped.