otisbradley

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Posts posted by otisbradley

  1. Yes - I like Chief a lot - not sure if I will do 5 or 20 design jobs over the next year so I guess that's why I am dragging my feet

    I should probably decide if I want to be an architect ... or a builder ... or both ... 

    I keep moving from one to another depending on the opportunities 

     

    I am amazed at the ability of Chief - working with a past client now - we worked on this building in 2000 - with old 2D drawings - now I can go through a world of ideas ...

     

    Thanks for your comments

    Kline_2019_0321.jpg

  2. Hi - 

    I am a design/builder - in and out of various parts of the business since '75 

    I used Chief - after other CAD products - for several years X6 - X8 I believe

    I have been involved in other things and haven't used Chief much in the past few years

    To "upgrade" the cost is $1700 - wow 

    I imagine it's worth it but that's a painful bite ...

    Any thoughts ?

    thx Otis

  3. Hi - looked everywhere in forum etc can't find out how to edit these legends - found in library - Core Catalogs - CAD Blocks - Notes and Legends

    When I open it as a CAD block or from a plan 

    I explode the block and all of the text disappears ! The grid still shows along with all of the small CAD blocks for the symbols but I can't find the text 

    I'm sure this is some dopey thing I am not seeing

    Feeling stupid ....

    thx Otis 

     

     

     ElectLegend.thumb.JPG.28ab8104c7ba07f8ce5f7ed901616b58.JPG

     

     

  4. Here are a couple more ideas that you might consider. Some you may have already tried and realized their current limitations. I don't have much experience with moldings so I cant say how well that will work but if it does not you can apply a brick material to a polyline solid that can be made the size of an individual brick and manipulated with Transform and replicate with great precision. The arches can be done by carefully rotating around the center x&y co-ordinates of your arc. Mortar can be done with a polyline solid backer recessed a bit from the bricks so you only need one piece for each segment or area. This technique will take some time to master but should give you the results you need for your situation. Not sure what your experience level is with Chief or what version you are running but if you have more questions just ask. How do you like your 8700?

    P.S. Your windows sills should be able to be done with a custom sill within the window DBX.

    Thanks Chopsaw 

    Found this - looks interesting and time consuming!

    https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00797/creating-a-soldier-course.html

     

    The 8700 has been great !  Every computer gets light years better but the programs always seem to require more - vicious cycle - great program !

     

    Using 7 and 8 a couple of years with CA 

    but 30 all in from paper to CAD !

     

    thx

  5. Otis:

     

    Hi, we have a similar firehouse here in NF that needs restoration

     

    https://www.facebook.com/HighlandFireHouse/

     

    awhile back there were some pics on EBAY that caught my eye

    until I realized the building was in RI, but used the word NIAGARA

     

    seems lots of fire dept's across the country called themselves NIAGARA

     

    Lew

    Thanks Lew - where's NF ? North Fork - LI ?

    Newport had - I think - 10 brick firehouses built in the 1880's - state of the art "fireproof" only problem was "technology" changed - there was a race in town a few years later - the new engines won and all the buildings became obsolete and sold off

    Cheers

  6. Hi 

     

    This is an 1887 Victorian Firehouse - called "Hose Station # 8"

    I used to own it - regret letting it go!

     

    Doing an as built - lots of challenges 

     

    Windows - can't seem to get them to recess - it's a brick supporting wall structure - guess I need another wall inside to recess windows?  Also notice the sill and lintels

     

    Brickwork - lots of detailed corbeling - thinking applying mouldings is the way to do this

    I saw an article about creating a brick and then applying it to mouldings - best way to do this ?

     

    Door - notice the detail in the big door - for the horse drawn firewagons !

    How am I going to get all the little window lites ?

     

    Thanks for your help

     

    Otis

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    post-3675-0-28370300-1461545891_thumb.jpg

  7. This is a great topic!

     

    I upgraded to the system below... 

    Off the shelf Dell XPS from Fry's about $1200 I think

    Huge improvement over my last system

    My feeling is - its an amazing bargain of computing power

    I wonder if spending $5k would really get you that much more for CA work ???

     

    When I get into large files - approaching 30 mb things can bog

    But not too bad

    It seems to be the heavy site work that really gets things slowing down

     

    Cheers

    Otis

  8. There are many ways to accomplish this with either traditional cement stucco or synthetic/acrylic stucco's. The first needs a secondary drainage plane and weep screed which is difficult to hide it in a design like this – the second is a surface waterproofing situation.

    Call it acrylic, dryvit, sto or any other name - if you seal the building on the exterior you better be careful of your dewpoint/insulation issues

    The nice thing about the synthetic stucco's is they seem to have a little bit more flexibility and resist cracking which this design definitely needs.

    I've seen plenty of houses in the mountains of Colorado with synthetic stucco that have fired quite well.

    Certainly the combination of a flat roof makes it more risky. I've seen people do the parapet wall without flashing (using membranes underneath) with disastrous results.

    Looks to me like an ICF frame might be a good idea.

    I would suggest that you enlist a qualified consultant to handle all the waterproofing details for whatever system you might choose

    Good luck.

  9. There are many ways to accomplish this with either traditional cement stucco or synthetic/acrylic stucco's. The first needs a secondary drainage plane and weep screed which is difficult to hide it in a design like this – the second is a surface waterproofing situation.

    Call it acrylic, dryvit, sto or any other name - if you seal the building on the exterior you better be careful of your dewpoint/insulation issues

    The nice thing about the synthetic stucco's is they seem to have a little bit more flexibility and resist cracking which this design definitely needs.

    I've seen plenty of houses in the mountains of Colorado with synthetic stucco that have fired quite well.

    Certainly the combination of a flat roof makes it more risky. I've seen people do the parapet wall without flashing (using membranes underneath) with disastrous results.

    Looks to me like an ICF frame might be a good idea.

    I would suggest that you enlist a qualified consultant to handle all the waterproofing details for whatever system you might choose

    Good luck.

  10. Hello 

     

    I took Val's Idea and experimented a bit with his idea of changing plywood

    I'm new to CA so ...

     

    I drew a simple cross in paint and created a material in white

    to make a simple rectangular pattern like Hardi commercial

     

    Also made one cross over a photo of concrete for a different effect

     

    I think you could also do a "T" drawing and make an offest pattern too

     

    Cheers Otis

     

    Sample walls hardi panel.plan

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    post-3675-0-15159400-1421546369_thumb.jpg

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