SkullMesaRanch
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Posts posted by SkullMesaRanch
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Hi ACA, I do understand wet vents. I'm just trying to figure out how to physically connect the vents. I think your sketch implies combining the master bath vents in the attic instead of the walls.
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I hate to admit that I got this far (almost done with the construction docs) and now may have to redesign the master bath. After working on the MEP and reading through the IRC, I found the spec for max distance of fixture trap from vent (6' for 1.5" pipe, 8' for 2" pipe, and 12' for 3" pipe.)
With the master bath layout shown, I'll have to put the 3" vent in an external wall next the the sink (shown in green) to meet the 6' to 1.5" trap (restricted by the window). The distance from the proposed vent to the tub trap would be slightly over 8' and slightly over 12' to the toilet trap.
I'm I missing something or you just can't have big bathrooms? This is a bathroom floor plan I found online and liked. The room above is a master bedroom/closet and the room below is the garage. What would you do?
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12 hours ago, Chopsaw said:
It appears you may have selected " Flush Eave" rather than " Boxed Eave " in Roof Plane Specification > Options.
I had boxed eaves checked. The problem was that the attic walls above the eave were 'pulled' into the overhang by mistake. Once I shorten the attic walls to line up with the structure walls (and rebuilt roof) it was fixed.
As a side note this forum is incredible. 99% of the questions I have are answered quickly with a search. This forum (and software) has allowed me to design my own home/barn and I'm about 80% done with my construction docs. It's an incredible rewarding experience. Thanks to all who have helped!
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I'm not sure how this happened. I was working on the layout and noticed the eave is not right on 3 corners of the barn. The house is similar construction and the eaves are fine. It was only two corners not right on the barn and somehow I messed up a third corner. I should be able to select the attic wall and pull it to the edge of the eave but it doesn't work.
I'm having trouble uploading the file and will try later.
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Yes, I had the railing foundation (and garage entrance wall foundation) turned off until I started working on the foundation plan page of my construction docs. When I added a Simpson strong cast in place post base (PB66) there was no concrete on the porch end post to cast into. Therefore, in order not to have the posts right at the edge of the slab I had to turned on the railing foundation. This is even more pronounced for the garage entrance. If you don't turn on the garage foundation wall than there's not enough room on the slab for the garage door framing trim.
I still can't upload my file. I'll try again later.
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Yes the auto foundation is turned on. I'll have to send the file at a later time. My internet connection is having trouble uploading the 6.5MB zip file at this time. These look like foundation extensions beyond the footing.
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When creating a post/beam porch, there's an option to check "foundation." This is also available for the garage entrance wall. Based on the 3D view it looks like these are required but why don't they show up in the foundation plan? Have I missed checking some box. I've scanning the reference layer list and think I have everything turned on.
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How can I find out the longitude and latitude of my perc test holes? Can this info be extracted from my CA site plan? At the site I can get the coordinates from my satellite phone. This isn't my final site plan and I got the contours from the county. I have to move the leach fields so they're at least 20' from a >15% grade. It will be tight meeting the set back requirements so I need to find a way to locate the exact position of my perc test holes from my site plan...or does the surveyor have to mark these locations?
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On 5/23/2023 at 6:11 PM, Doug_N said:
There are a few issues with this arrangement. The deck beam is not as wide as the stucco wall and the stucco attic wall lines up with the attic wall over the main part of the house.
You have a couple of choices to work around the problem.
1) you can make a jog in the attic wall so that the outer surface of the wall lines up with the beam below, then edit the roof to match the wall.
2) you can move the railing wall to make the exterior surface of the beam align with the exterior surface of the attic wall above, and then no roof edit is necessary.
3) you can edit the roof to intersect with the beam and then change to attic roof so that where the roof cuts the wall, below the roof it is drywall and above the roof it is stucco type.
Hi Doug, I had some underlining problems with my attic walls. One of the other members pointed out the issues. Once I fixed wall alignment and wall type issues, the roof built correctly, automatically. Thanks for being so responsive.
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On 3/19/2023 at 7:37 AM, Doug_N said:
Hi
In the file that you posted there were a couple of things that I noticed in the file before I did anything other than open it.
1) The roofs were in manual. CA would not generate any changes to the roof structure.
2) The wall assembly that has exposed framing has stucco on one side and drywall on the other.
So I dug into the geometry of the roof and wall as shown in your screen shot
Notice that the longer roof does not cover the wall below (that is an attic wall.)
Also notice that the shorter roof cuts halfway into the attic roof.
So by pulling back the shorter roof to just touch the attic wall the outer stucco layer shows and the framing is hidden.
Also pulling out the longer roof, an adequate roof overhang is achieved.
Hopefully this helps.
Hi Doug,
I've run into this same problem again and can't seem to find my way. I have a gap between the long roof and short roof walls. When I move the short roof wall towards the long roof wall (any distance) it goes back to showing drywall (instead of stucco) on the attic wall. I've also tried moving the porch wall. This gave me the most success but then the truss didn't line up well. Do you have time to look at this?
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Walked outside....realized the answer. Click on porch wall, switch to gable wall. Gable eaves are now 12".
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I wanted to change my simple gable roof from 18" gable eaves to 12" (changed in roof defaults) but when I rebuild it looks like this instead of a simple gable roof. Somehow the porch is throwing it off. When I try to fix it manually, it goes south very fast. How can I rebuild the roof without the funky plane being generated?
Incorrect, only right side changed the gable eave to 12" Correct roof planes but has 18" gable eaves
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I have two separate structures in my plan (house and barn). So far I can only get auto dimensions on the house elevation. I can do the barn manually but would like to use auto dimensions on the elevations. Does anyone know how to do auto dimensions on multiple structures?
After changing the defaults (dimensions on left and right) for the auto story pole dimensions I was able to get the following. Should the side elevations of the house and barn be separated from each other?
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I was under the impression that I could just use large triangular gable vents on my simple (with simple trusses) rectangular house and barn. Going through the calculations I need 950 sq in of inlet and 950 sq in outlet ventilation for the house. These vents don't provided anywhere near the passive ventilation required by code. I don't like the idea of putting vents in the roof.
Adding a fan should reduce the vent requirement considerably.
I found a source that said 1 SF NFA(net free area) for every 300 CFM. So if my attic is 1985 sf/150=13 SF. How does the sent size come into play when you have a large fan in the attic?
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1 hour ago, TeaTime said:
Yup, that's Perspective for ya!
Changing the Field of View can reduce that effect, too.
Ex: 30 vs 90 (default is 55)
That made a big difference. These screen shots were taken with a 10 degree field of view. The 5/12 roof looks too big from this view. Will someone give there opinion on the 4/12 versus 5/12 roof look?
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Does CA make a roof look flatter than it really is in 3D? My designed roof was 4/12 but now I think it would look better if I went with a 5/12 roof. I don't want the house to look like a manufactured home. Here are some screen captures of the house/garage and barn with a 4/12 roof and a 5/12 roof for comparison. What would you do?
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3 hours ago, Chrisb222 said:
Thanks, Chris. That was very helpful.
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Below is the foundation generated from my floor plan.
1.) CA detects external garage walls and generates a different footing than the other walls. This is my 1st and only home design. Why are there different footing thicknesses (16" in home, 8" in garage?) When I view the slab in 3D and look underneath, the footings all look the same depth.
2.) Why does CA generate a footing where there is no wall (defined as invisible) between the kitchen and living? I'm sure this must be deleted. What should the footings look like for this structure? Should I delete the left side bedroom wall footings?
3.) There is no bearing wall parallel to the ridge line on the left side of the home. For this span (32') is it necessary? Will this be a problem in the structural analysis? Would it be best to rearrange the floor plan so that a bearing wall can be placed near the ridge line?
I'm starting to get into the details on this project (i.e., generating the site plan and construction docs.)If anyone has the time I'd appreciate any feedback they could give me on this home and barn design so far.
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Thanks for taking the time to look at my file and point out the problem. I'm surprised CA doesn't have an attic wall type without drywall but as you point out I can generate one.
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1 hour ago, Doug_N said:
Hi
In the file that you posted there were a couple of things that I noticed in the file before I did anything other than open it.
1) The roofs were in manual. CA would not generate any changes to the roof structure.
2) The wall assembly that has exposed framing has stucco on one side and drywall on the other.
So I dug into the geometry of the roof and wall as shown in your screen shot
Notice that the longer roof does not cover the wall below (that is an attic wall.)
Also notice that the shorter roof cuts halfway into the attic roof.
So by pulling back the shorter roof to just touch the attic wall the outer stucco layer shows and the framing is hidden.
Also pulling out the longer roof, an adequate roof overhang is achieved.
Hopefully this helps.
Thanks for spelling it out so clearly, Doug. My main problem was that I didn't think it was suppose to have a overhang. All is good for now.
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Will someone check my file and see what I'm doing wrong with this roof transition? I can't delete the end truss shown below and am not sure how it got there. I did delete one of the longer trusses at the transition. Also, how do you keep the attic walls from having drywall interiors? I suspect I need to rebuild the roof but didn't want to lose the work I've done.
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27 minutes ago, Alaskan_Son said:
It works just fine. You need to convert the appropriate layers to elevation data and terrain perimeter during the import process.
Thanks for checking the files so quickly. When I went back in and remapped the files, it worked. I assume in order to get this to work with my house plan, I'll have to enter elevation data. The upper level is about 2600'. Do I do this by "converting polyline?"
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I purchased the attached contour and perimeter dxf files from the county assessor office. Will someone see if they can view this lot in 3D? I have watched the videos and read the info on the forum. The files come in on the elevation data and terrain perimeter layers. Do I need to set an elevation to view it?
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2 hours ago, Joe_Carrick said:
Having visited Cave Creek in the winter I know it can get pretty cold and of course in the summer it can get pretty hot. That said, you should be able to use 2x4's if your design meets the energy requirements.
Just make sure you don't have any plumbing in the exterior walls as the pipes could freeze where the insulation is compromised.
2x6 construction isn't a status symbol. It's totally a matter of what's needed for structural and energy requirements. If the structure isn't too tall (wind load) and the insulation needed will fit in 3.5" then 2x4's are fine.
Hi Joe,
Thanks for the reply. If you were building a small simple house (1500sqft livable) would you use 2X4 construction in today's building environment?
Do I have to redesign this bathroom for this code?
in Building Codes and Compliance
Posted
Ok, so that's how you get around the code restriction. This approach takes more material. Would that also be better than routing a drain vent horizontally under the window (going thru king studs)? If I move the window... butted up against the wall, I can move the main vent closer to the bath and toilet and meet the code. I'm not sure if it's a good idea to butt a window up to a wall.