BnCKelley

How can I make another level or floor show up as an overlay while on a particular level? Like if I'm on my main level and I want to see the basement for an upstairs level to see how things are lining up. Thanks

Got it, it's a little different on my phone but the video got be there. Thanks again!

Ok I'll try that, I've looked everywhere, I must be missing it. Thanks

I may be missing it but I'm not finding a reply on how to turn off the gutters. Thanks

How can I pull up (view) just my forums that I've started, if possible? I think one of the first ones I didn't click the Notify button. Thanks

I've fixed the upstairs issue and now I can set my basement heights as I want, that was it! Thanks guys.

Ok, I was looking into that, wasn't sure what that was all about either. I apologize for the camera pic, we don't have internet in my corner of the woods, and my delays in response. I'm working today and being Mr Mom since my wife's working.

Yeah I know that would be better but then I'd have to hook up my phone and download the image, we do not have internet where we live so this is a quicker method, and the actual reason why I initially was not including any pictures of what I am doing. When I change the value, it adjust everything accordingly but the stem wall still goes lower.

Good morning, can someone please tell me what I'm doing wrong here. I can't get rid of this additional gap created by the stem wall height. I want the floor level in the basement set at 130.5", top of slab, from floor above. It's currently at 122.125. My ceiling is good. I want a 4" slab and 4" gravel fill which currently I've taken out trying to figure the problem. I was thinking the stem wall height would be 8" plus my ceiling height of 109.5. It keeps creating another void that I can't figure out. Is it a wall type issue? I looked for a concrete basement wall type instead of stem thinking that might be the difference but I didn't see anything of the sort. What am I missing? Ignore the fact that 1 dimension is red. Thanks And could any main level settings cause a problem with the basement level. I tried that too.

The check/uncheck box seems to work! Thanks

Yeah I got mixed up between importing into cad vs the exporting out of Chief. I'm going to try the uncheck mentioned earlier and see if that helps. Thanks

Good morning solver, this is Brad, the guy with the cantilevered truss thread from a couple of weeks ago. I am exporting, I am plotting, as stated. I need to know how, if possible, to change the blocks from the library for items mentioned, to line only items, losing the solid fill. Thanks PS I'm exporting to AutoCAD

Good morning, How can I make my cabinets, fixtures, etc... export as lines only without fill? And the walls for that matter. They're blocked and have a solid background that makes them plot like a shadow. Thanks

Thanks again y'all for all your help and the additional reading. Not sure why in the post I can't see your comment in parenthesis. It's initials, no pronunciation required. It's for BnC Farms originally. Nothing out there on it, that I'm aware of that's us, it's my wife and myself. We raised some horses and such, I built and raced Mopars for years and we just keep using BnC for things with more of a "business" or commercial use. I need more familiarity with the forum sites and such, I'm not even sure where or how to suggest anything at the moment. I had another post out there, not even sure what it was but didn't have any of the attention this one had. How can I see just me and my post topics?

I think I have it downloaded. I also took a screenshot I will read through this tonight or tomorrow. Thanks

Well here's stupid for you, I can't figure out how to do anything with it, lol! I clicked it and it was scrambled like eggs on a griddle. Somebody tell me what to do with that one please. And I'm trying to catch up with the abbreviations too. To avoid more post (just so it was less to read and a little embarrassing) I went as far as messaging one on one. It's a lot better for me that way, I don't have to read so much sometimes and I'm used to doing things more that way but it wasn't like by the other and I do understand. Thanks again guys, I'm really struggling but trying with asking to many questions. I'm 12 plans behind and this was supposed to speed me up.

Ok, I've looked back at jobs where I used to work and here's what we did. We specified a height for the end heel of the cantilevered truss based on pitch. Overhang doesn't matter. If it was an 8/12 pitch it had a 6" heel. 12/12 was 6.25". You can also use calculated numbers at the wall for the truss but that's where overhang matters. All I wanted was to raise the roof enough to cantilever the bottom chord out to meet the truss. In playing with it more, if you don't go enough, it doesn't cut off the pointed tip on the bottom chord. The pitch and overhang can stay the same and the heel at the wall change, it's just a matter of plating the truss and your fascia size. We would do 16" overhangs at 14.5" long with specified end of truss heel heights for a 2x6. I could care less about getting that precise for what I'm doing I just needed to know the best way to raise it up enough. Again thanks for all the help and support. I got more questions but I'm about to afraid to ask, lol!

Ok, I feel y'all are beginning to make me sound stupid. I asked 2 simple questions, most everyone at first understood. How can I raise the roof to allow (create) a cantilevered truss and is it possible to set (I spoke the post and it came out sit) the depth of the truss (heel) at the wall? I explained in truss design software, we always used pre-calculated heights for this heel height and the end height of the truss was always the same. Several people responded quickly with great answers, not too difficult either. How much more clear could I have been. Just 2 questions. I don't get it. It seems twisted around and around. I'm not looking for numbers or dimensions. Just methods, like, here's how.... and no you can't or yes and here's where. It's sounding like I can't explain how to make a PBJ. And what the crap, Gene thinks I'm a woman! Solver got it, Michael and a couple others but man this just seemed to go south quick. Again I appreciate all the help and I'd be glad to suggest this to Chief if the demand is there, or anyone else can if you want. Personally I'm still very green with this software and it took me a little while to just find the section elevation I needed. Just please try to give more how to and where details and less criticism.

Ok, I need to really find the best videos for these things. There's so many and I don't have the time right now to watch several especially when they're not completely answering my questions.

Correct, I have designed thousands of roof trusses, the heel heights can vary with the same distance overhangs, it really depends on the desired height at the end. We always used a particular, calculated distance at the very end, which we referred to as the heel when talking cantilevered, not to be mistaken as heel at the wall, that once a 2x6 was flushed on bottom and nailed in place, the sheathing would plane down the top chord and hit the 2x6 in the center of the thickness. Of course the pitches as well calculated in and this number is what I'd like to set my heel at wall to, but, it's not that critical to my drawings. What's mostly important is just getting the elevation look for the cantilevered trusses. I'm still not sure what everyone has mentioned, what's easier and less confusing, but the video from Kbird1 sure made it look quick and easy. Is this any way close to what you're talking about? If there is a different way though please let me know. Thank you Gene.

Ok but it'll be later tonight possibly. I got it to work with another set now but then had another that wouldn't??? I know it's something I'm doing, just not sure what. Thanks bud

That's another thing, I understand the way I used roof planes in Mitek software but I don't know anything about them in CA yet.

Most trusses around here are Mitek and there are no drawings required on plans. The truss manufacturer provides individual pages in a notebook for every truss. Most overhangs are cantilevers, very few dropped tail. I'm very use to the Mitek software which is great for custom roofs. I don't understand the roof planes yet in CA but in Mitek u pick and choose where each plane (surface) will "cut" or mate with. You set pitch, heel and overhang and it's a breeze.

Yes I want to mull this collection together but it is saying they're overlapping. Is my signature showing up? And is there a way to permanent turn on the Notify me of replies button? Thanks

How can I edit my roof to remove gutters without rebuilding it. Also, I can't set my floor system depth correctly without dropping floor level. Is there a way to lock my main level floor and basement. The buttons in the structure aren't locking them like I thought they would.