andr0id

Allura recently lost a lawsuit that alleged they make the product from fly ash and that it breaks and shrinks. https://considertheconsumer.com/class-action-settlements/allura-fiber-cement-siding-settlement-2021-start-to-claim-the-12-5-million-settlement-rebate-now Hardie has had problems and lawsuits too, but after some reading, I'm going to avoid fly ash products on my new home. Much is (probably correctly) blamed on incorrect installation. It's not hard, but failure to read the documentation and just nail it to the wall will result in the clearances and nailing being wrong and possible water damage to the siding or structure. Wrong nail pattern, nail over-penetration and incorrect spacing between planks and panels and incorrect caulking seem to be the biggest offenders. I think we're going to go with Factory painted Hardie CedarMill. Then I don't have to rely on somebody that may not paint it correctly. Good luck on your hunt, I'm not sure anything out there is 100% perfect.

I was trying to make construction drawings for my building dept that accurately reflect what's being built. At this point I'm going to try to just get the wall heights to come out right and then send my framing details to the layout. My only reward the knowledge accumulated on journey. I'm probably going overboard. I think I'm intimidated by the multi page sample layouts and I probably don't really need anything that fancy for Fremont County, CO.

I did figure out how to get the end truss to be the "attic wall" 1) create the roof and ceiling planes and draw in the first truss. 2) offset it to 0 relative to the gable wall. This should park it on the outside edge of the wall. 3) multi-copy all the rest of trusses to the other end. 4) pick the 2 ends and set [x] End Truss and [x] Reduced Gable and [x] Force rebuild 5) now build roof framing and wall framing.

OK, I have that. I guess I can make an alternate .plan file that has no roof on it the generate the wall details. Is that how it is normally done?

I have a truss design from Foxworth, and I want to update my framing plans and roof framing plans to show the truss design. I need to put in 2 girder trusses and then 2 sets of roof trusses. CA is fighting me every step of the way. It either won't put in 2nd floor walls or wants to stack attic walls on top of my end/gable trusses. If it doesn't stack attic walls, it won't show exterior sheathing. This is a section of the roof truss plan provided by the truss engineer. I also have the pdfs of all the actual truss dimensions. So I know those girder trusses are 3' tall and 4 ply. I seem to have no control over how tall to make a truss. Any ideas on how to get this drawn?

Thanks Chop and Gene! I guess I designed my house with every possible weird thing Chief doesn't like!

My ground floor will have gypcrete poured over radiant so I want to double bottom plates. The 1-1/2" gypcrete will be to the level of the 1st plate and then sheetrock can be normally nailed to the plate above the gypcrete. But my basement is just 4" slab poured before the wall are built, so I want to show those as single bottom plates. I'm stumped because there only seems to be one place to set plating under framing and it applies to all floors.

Thank you, thank you. That was a great suggestion. It auto calculated to 7-1/4" rise and I ended up with a few more inches of headroom and a slightly smaller stairwell. Win, win!

Thanks Eric, That looks like a good video that has everything in it. I'll watch it tomorrow.

I'm on IRC 2018. I'm detailing out my floor heights. I've got a really big family room in the walk out, so we're using 16" trusses to avoid posts. So I've very carefully stacked my basement and 1st floor defaults with the exact heights of everything we're using and then I reran the stairs. I've got 6'11" from the nose of the step that hits the ceiling and the next step up has all air overhead, so I think that means I got an extra 3" overhead. And my rise and run are within limits, but treads are < 11" so I have 1" nosing as required. I'm not required to have a landing, but I do because it looks nicer from the great room. So did I get it right?

HAHA, This just got posted on Reddit r/coolguides https://www.reddit.com/r/coolguides/comments/m7ucp2/know_your_roof_types/

Thanks, that's a pretty decent little tutorial and it got me a lot farther than before. It's builds a ledger and the wall above, no truss or header though, so I've got to keep tinkering.

First, is there a technical name for this type of shed roof that is split and then has a row of windows? I want to build my barn/workshop with this type of roof, BUT I will not have a bearing wall under those windows. My garage door will be on the side where the single window is right now. I know that it would be built by putting in a truss with a ledger to attach the lower rafters, but I'm not sure how to get Chief to do that. Does anyone have a sample plan that is this kind of roof that I could sing along to?

I will have to tape, but we can L5 later and paint. No banks to satisfy, just my life's savings.

So, it turns out to be more complicated than that. You have to dig deep into USG's library to find a document called Fire Rated Assemblies. it details every possible metal, masonry or wood framed wall, ceiling and floor you could possible think of with one or more layers of sheetrock installed along with the actual UL test number. Some assemblies say -joints filled some do not.