JuanR2

Impressive!

These are the actual trees and not the cactus plants I'm using

Both of the Renderings are very realistic! Now that I managed to bring down my time spent rendering, seems that now I'll spend time with AI I guess?

Thanks, my 360 image (picture from the site) takes the same time as HDR. I did turn down to 50 Samples on both Exterior and Interior Cameras -sun light does help a lot. These are the Results for Images: Exterior 3 Seconds. Interior 6 Seconds, Lighted Interior with Mirrors 9 Seconds. For Walkthroughs of 1,465 Frames on Standard was taking 16 min, now Ray Traced took 3:30 min with DLSS on. This with my OLD notebook! ... I'm finding out what I've been missing! I watched your video on turning off surfaces, mi project has 2 Million and came down to 1 Million, though I checked speeds and there was no noticeable difference. My Nvidia Card lets me choose between a Driver for Gamers or one for Creators. Guess the one for Creators should be my choice? I will test this setup on the NEW notebook, which for now my expectations are to design live in Ray Trace. FOR NOW, THE CHANGE YOU ENABLED HAS BEEN WAY WAY BEYOND MY DREAMS PS. Or maybe just return the new notebook and spend the money on a vacation ...LOL, really my problems have been solved!

Thanks for all the Feedback! Part of the Mystery solved! I was using the default 20,000 Samples I was misled by the settings when I canceled at 3,000 Samples and the Rendering was poor (attached), after 7 minutes! Now with Setting at 500 Samples takes 1:18 min With Setting at 300 Samples -for production is great!- average 30 seconds! All done with my OLD notebook, 1 interior light (simulating a solar tube inside the shower) spherical 360 photo from the site WHAT ELSE DO I NEED TO MODIFY? I attached my settings also for Video Recording

My 2021 laptop has an NVIDIA RTX 2060 6GB, Intel i7 16 GB Ram. I just bought at Costco a 2025 notebook with NVIDIA RTX 5070 8GB, Intel i9 32 GB Ram: I was expecting it to fly! I did some tests with a project: The new one renders images almost 3 times faster: 9 minutes with the old one, 3 minutes with the new. For videos it is almost twice as fast: 16 min with the old one, 9 minutes with the new. I was expecting it to perform somewhere between 5 or 10 times faster... and not be waiting forever. I'm thinking about a return, and purchasing the RTX 5080 16 BG Are my expectations unrealistic? Does everyone spend so much time waiting for Ray Tracing and Videos?

THANKS! it solves the situation! Never thought 1 mm could do so much.

My plan view is what I want, one of the electrical switches NOT grouped with the other 3. But on perspective view, it groups the 4 of them! Is there a separation parameter I can edit? Putting them further apart is not a solution for my plan view, nor would it be possible on a narrow wall.

Information displayed on the Schedule includes OPENING INDICATORS, as of now my schedule does not include extra columns for Left or Right Swing or Slide. Going back to my original question I did not mention the Schedule was working fine on other Left and Right Casement groupings ....IT WAS JUST ONE particular case. Since I do have a Comment Column, I just wrote a period symbol " . " which is un noticeable for the Comment but enough to distinguish between hinge sides. ( I normally don't use industry terms as LH or RH since my projects are in spanish. I do use some english but have to stay away from the technical words to avoid missunderstandings). Thanks Dermot 09.-CML-A09a Puertas y Vent Casa.pdf

I have 2 Casement Windows, the only difference is the hinge side and I get the same Schedule Number, and the same Elevation drawing on the schedule. I should be getting 2 schedule numbers with their corresponding Left and Right Hinge side on the Elevation. (Left and Right Sliders come out ok, it is just the Casement). As for now I "forced" the Schedule to produce a new Schedule Number by adding a Comment on one of them ...to make it different!

Yessss!!! It works fine!!!! (spent all morning reading the manual).

When I center the Construction Line to a Wall, it centers to the middle of the complete assembly (Masonry Wall + Continuous Insullation), instead I need to center it to the Main Layer (Masonry Wall)

Installation-Guide-Hebel.pdf First I got tied up wrestling with the software in regards to the model, until I got to the opportunity of focusing on the construction solution. Thanks for your concern besides the software! I'm using 6" thick Solid Hebel (autoclaved aereated concrete) for Exterior Walls with R=6.01. Being a Mass Wall it needs R=7 in Zone 2, so I'm going above that by adding 2" Foam with R=4. I'll be using a pre fab Hebel Floor so I can have a big Terrace above the house, and will also add the Foam on its perimeter to match the finish plane of the walls underneath it. For Parapet walls I'm using 6" CMU which in general does not "need" to be insullated, but in some cases will like the following: Right side Parapet Wall - I'm using foam to have the finish on the same plane as the floor and walls: with a high R value on the wall and Floor portion, and low R value (low density) on the Parapet. The "inside" of the Parapet not insullated since it is just sitting above the Hebel Floor and I'm using it to hide Air Conditioning Units; Left side Parapet Wall - since we don't use wood rafters -in Mexico- and instead metal purlins, I will either add a concrete beam or U-Block CMU's to receive the purlins (will discuss this with the PE). Above either of the solutions I will have a Hebel parapet instead of the CMU. That is why I have a small piece of foam just to cover the possible concrete beam, which will be cut in a 45 degree angle so I can extend the fiberglass mesh and attach it to the Hebel, will not be using a flashing. Thanks again for your time and concern!

Seems the unwanted "square cut" at the Top happens when the Parapet Wall Exterior Side is facing the Roof. In such case you need the "no special snapping" on and manually extend the Roof to the Pony wall - as in PIC 08. (After this point I did not like my construction solution with the useless foam above the Roof!); On Pic 09 I reversed the Layers, now the foam is on the "exterior" of the Room -where I really need it- and now the cut is perfect! It does no need the "no special snapping" since it snaps perfectly to the wall. As a conclusion, the Roof needs to butt against the interior side of the parapet wall -which is logical- in order for the Roof to cut as expected on the top. In my case I still did a pony wall to partially add foam to the portion of the wall that needs it. THANKS for providing insight into solving this issue, your time is greatly appreciated!

Thanks DzinEye, finally solved! I had a Parapet Wall with lower portion of wall - below the roof - without the foam: which behaves like but was not a pony wall. What I did was change the Parapet Wall into a Pony wall to decide up to what elevation I needed the foam; matching the roof finish. With this I did not need to change the bottom portion of the pony wall below the Roof. I manually extended the Roof to butt against the Pony Wall . The only small thing I could not fix is that my design look better with the square than with the plumb cut. The square cut on the overhang is more noticeable than the butting of the roof that "invades" the wall.