2wheeltodd

Michael,

Many thanks that got it.

What are these red X's and how do you delete them?

I very often make multiple iterations of changes to the auto-built roof. I experiment with different forms, pitches, etc. and often find myself making the same modifications over and over.

Is there a way to lock a roof plane then auto re-build maintaining the locked plane?

I have not found a way to do so but perhaps a more experienced hand could offer some expertise.

Todd

Robert:

 

To expand on how to control the heel height, first you need to decide what size truss chords that you want displayed when you build a truss.  The Chief degaults are 2 x 4.  If you plug a number into the raise/lower setting Glenn mentioned, you need to understand that Chief will add that setting to the vertical rafter depth (truss top chord) to arrive at the total heel height of the truss.  The heel height is measured from the top of a wall's outside main layer to the top edge of the top chord vertically above it.

 

If I have a roof with a 5:12 pitch and I want a 12" heel height, the setting that I need to put in the raise/lower box in the roof dbx is the desired heel height minus the vertical rafter depth (VRD) of the top chord.  For a 2 x 4 top chord at a 5:12 pitch, the VRD is 3-13/16".  Therefore, the setting to put in the raise/lower box is 8-3/16".  If you don't do it this way, and just plug in 12" in the raise/lower box, you'll end up with a heel height of 15-13/16".  In this case, Chief's 12" measurement is from the top of the wall (outer main layer) to the bottom of the top chord directly above it.

 

I created myself a table of vertical rafter depths for various 2x sizes and for pitches from 1 to 12.  I often refer to this when setting up the spec's for roofs in my projects.

 

EnergyHeelSection.JPG     EnergyHeelBuildRoofDbx.JPG     EnergyHeelTrussSettings.JPG     VertRafterDepths.jpg

Awesome cheat sheet Curt. Thank you for sharing it.

Great symbol. Very generous of you to share your efforts.

I hope to do the same some day when I am able.

Slower for me as well

I use onion skin paper and a red colored pencil.

I have tried it. Not really a fan, but the basic interface is good for a client to see the basic forms.

A comment in regards to The Moakster's video.......  not sure if I am totally on board with his method......  or I should say you must be careful and know what you are doing.......  The Moakster adjusted roof planes by matching fascia heights,  this led to what I would perceive as different plate heights of the ROOF BASE LINE.....  what he did could most definitely work,  but you really must understand what happened when he did this.

With multiple pitches in the same plane I set the minimum heel height to the lowest pitch. You need to do some math to calculate the heel height for a different pitch but by doing so you can maintain a consistent plate height.

My 2 cents.

I usually set up my camera using the soft shadows then check the legacy shadow dbx. and do create my final image.

I also prefer the legacy shadows but I don't miss the lag.

I agree with MickeyToo also.

I have had this happen to often and the solutions that seems to work more consistently is what he describes.

I would suggest reading the forums for adding roof planes manually.

Stretch feature

Thank you Joe

What the....

Much appreciated share.

I still use your roof texture on almost every plan. Many thanks.