scottharris

Drew, take a look at changing the Y origin offset of your heater.  The offset will move the object into the cabinet and then look correct in plan views.  I also resized the depth.


Toe Kick Heater2.calibz

For a Standard render view, here are a few settings you might consider adjusting; you can see this in an updated plan attached; see the Camera “Kitchen – Std”
 
-create a light set for only the lights you want on; in your example I created a ‘kitchen’ light set.  The more lights the brighter and slower your scene will be since it’s an open design
-turn off reflections – they can be expensive and only for mirrors
-I changed the lights from point lights to spot lights; and adjusted the lumens from 1200 to 850 – you could go lower.  I made a few other light adjustments on your can lights; you can open one and review.
-I adjusted the ambient light from 100 to 20
 
In one of the attached examples, there’s a .25 line under ‘hand drawn lines on top’ setting
 
Note, in the plan you attached, there are several missing materials, so, it probably will not look as good as your original plan



Lighting sample2.zip

If you find yourself dimensioning to countertops often, you can 1) change your dimension default to only pickup countertops or preferably, 2) create a specific dimension default for that purpose (and save that in your template plan).  
 
In the attached image, you can see that the end-to-end dimension is set to only pickup countertops when used.
 

Sometimes at 3-way wall intersections, the wall layers compete.  The ‘edit wall layer intersections’ tool or marking one of the exterior walls as ‘through at end or start’ can fix it – not always.  In this case, you can use a wall type of ‘partition’ for your invisible wall; it does not cut the layers of opposing walls (like glass shower walls).  I made a copy of your “Lean to Wall”, marked it as a partition, and it looks to work.  Try it out.

With a computer that supports real-time ray tracing (GPU), you can make renderings in seconds – of course that is after you build, decorate, and light your model.  If your computer does not support real-time ray tracing (GPU), you can use the CPU; it takes minutes to hours for a render.  Attached are two GPU render examples and one CPU of the latest Chief Architect X15 Silverton Sample Plan.
 
Chief Architect models can be exported to external renders - like Twinmotion, and achieve additional fidelity with the renders.

Levina - I opened your plan and took a 3D view.  I'm seeing terrain.  

Attached is a simplified “materials & objects” plan (X15) I use for each of my projects.  I bring this forward into each new project and then update it to reflect the materials or other items (like cabinets, islands or vanities) I want to render out for layouts or just to render the individual object.  The cameras are saved to make it relatively easy to update and obtain the view I’m after.  Hope this helps.

Kitchen-bath-materials.zip

Drawing exterior walls clockwise can keep the outside layer on the outside.  If you draw them counterclockwise, once a room is formed, the walls will auto adjust to the outside.  So, it may not really matter which way you draw them. 

If you change your wall structure from 'balloon through ceiling above' to 'automatic' the windows seem to work fine.

You can manage your note information in "Note Type Management" via your CAD > Text menu.

The ‘lower wall type if split by butting roof’ tool you mention is available in Home Designer Pro and Chief Architect Premier/Interiors.  For your work around, you might try a section view, use the backsplash tool, reshape, and paint it.

The Mac M1 computers now run with Chief Architect X13.

Charlene, raise the elevation and thickness of your p. solid; BTW, I usually draw these in an elevation view to avoid figuring out the dimensions for the elevation.