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Posts posted by parkwest
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CA does not do any engineering.
I would suggest you use your tables, etc. to get your plan going and then when you think you have it, take your plan to a local engineer for him to review. They will help you with the engineering on loads, shear walls, hold downs, strapping, etc. They are very reasonably priced for the service they provide, I have found.
For Boise Cascade products, I use bc Framer, and bc Calc. BC Calc is available online, BC Framer needs a referral to use.
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It would be nice if CA had an auto label function with all the details for walls, stairs, etc...
SnagIt worked good. Now I will see what else I can snag with it... wall types maybe???
Thanks
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I noticed a couple cupolas in the library.
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As an Architect, I consider it my responsibility to provide the best possible design (functionally and structurally) within the clients budget. If the client wants more than they can afford then it's my job to provide guidance. To provide a design and documents that are totally outside the realm of possibility - including budget - is a moral and professional failure. There can be a reasonable variance from budget but it must be within reason.
+++1
I just posted a similar response on the new thread.
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To save the OP a lot of time, money and frustration, I suggest he assemble his design/build team right from the beginning and work together with his "professionals" to make his dream home come to life.
My father in law proved to me a long time ago that anyone can design and build a house if they have enough time and MONEY! lol
The first consideration to establish is a budget for the project and then work within that budget. We have no idea what the OP budget is so we have no idea if this is indeed feasible for him.
Years ago, I had a young couple come to me with plans for a beautiful, all brick, 3 story home drawn by a local architect.
At the time the house was in the $800K range. I assumed they had won the lottery or inherited a large sum of money. They were heart-broken when I told them how much building that palace would cost. They said they were only approved for a $159K loan.
I called the architect to find out why he had drawn up such a plan for this couple (at $15K for his fees). He said he drew up exactly what the homebuyers had requested without ever asking how much was the budget for the house.
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Anyone have this problem?
Last night I clicked on an object from the library and a Windows window popped up saying CAP was no longer responding... I waited a while to see if windows could sort it out and then hit the only option available to close CAP.
I rebooted my computer to just be safe, opened CAP and my standard views no longer show texture... ie., siding, stone, roofing.
I checked layers, camera options... no luck.
I opened a different plan, same problem, no texture showing.
I've attached a view...
Any suggestions?
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Well maybe there are some absolutes and no room for creative differences - I was probably mistaken and I've changed my mind - there is most likely only one way to proceed.
LOL, that is pretty much how I felt after reading thru the 2015 building codes.
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I don't think there's any absolute formula one needs to follow. You don't have to go to a professional designer on day one, or ever, if you are pleased with your ideas and they fit your life style and family needs. Any design almost always needs an engineer's expertise to size lumber/footings etc. but if you like the design you've come up with then build it.
That might work if you are paying cash for the house. The guy I referenced earlier ran into problems right off the bat when he went to get financing on his diy plans. The underwriter added a new phrase to his vocabulary, functionally obsolete.
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Not mandatory, just smart.
On day one, I hand prospects a home planner guide...
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I'm sorry but I see nothing wrong with learning what you can
and put together some ideas
Ryan has indicated that he plans to hire professionals
why not go to them with some ideas worked out first
why go on day 1 instead of day 100
as long as you go ???
Lew
Lew, if he is going to hire professionals, why not start day one?
Now on the other hand, if someone is just renting CAP for $200/mth and can get professional designers to critique his work for free...
I just had a client bring me his "plans" that he had worked on for over 2 years... that were functionally obsolete. He was upset at first when I told him we would redraw his plans. When we got done he was very happy... And said he wished he had come to me earlier.
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Being a licensed builder with over 30 years of experience designing and building homes, I want to thank you for bringing a smile and a good chuckle out of me.Good point, I think the books I got will show me that + common sense + looking at other plans. I also have to worry about code stuff (outlet placement, lights, etc) which should be easy to fix/adjust after the plan is done.
I know your intentions are good and you mean well but trying to put together a set of plans for your dream home is going to lead to a lot of frustration, especially when the plan reviewer takes a look at your work.
Please allow me to suggest you heed Mr Carrick's advice above. It will save you time and money in the long run,imho.
Plus, it will give you more time to practice operating the excavator for digging out your foundation and utility hook ups.
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Might want to keep some span tables handy...
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Thanks Glenn
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Have you tried adjusting: Floor to SWT "H" to get it to work?
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Thanks Perry!!!
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Out of the thousands of symbols in the libraries, why can't I find symbols for a washer hook up and a dryer vent hook up box?
Can someone point me in the right direction to find these elusive creatures?
I know I can model one out of p-solids, just thought something as basic as these would be in a library somewhere.
Have a great weekend.
Thanks
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How could it get any quicker? Its just a window with the proper settings.
LOL, how about point and click?
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Will do.
Thank you
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Thanks solver.
Just seems there should be a quicker way.
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I have tried several ways to box out the gable vents (see attached) and figured there must be an easier way to do this.
When using a solid, I was unable to place a gable vent on the surface.
A boxed window wouldn't go on a gable wall. And exterior wall insisted on repositioning itself at floor level.
What is the secret?
Thanks
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Mark, check your attic wall layer to make sure it is on. I hope this helps.
Structural Sizing (Beams, Joists, etc.)
in Building Codes and Compliance
Posted
Legal this, illegal that... You guys from CA sure have the hoops to jump thru. Have any designs by Perry collapsed or not function properly? If there is no problem with what he is doing, why take offense?
Do you realize there are still places in this country where a man can build without government permits? And just think, no one is dieing from collapsing buildings there.
Some of you are probably scaring the OP out of doing design work with some of these comments. :-)