tahoebrian5

I'm taking a few minutes to attempt to fully understand all the object snap options and quirks. I'm in a roof framing view and I'm trying to draw a cad line while snapping to walls. The first thing I notice is I can start a line without snapping anywhere, and then snap to a wall. But I have not been able to use a wall snap to start a line. Any wisdom to share regarding snaps?

In annotation sets, under callouts, in the callout panel, the size/orientation field. The angle field won't take. It always defaults to 180 degrees no matter what I set it to. I can then change it after the callout is placed.

Is there a similar command to the UCS functions in autocad? For working on things that were tilted it was very convenient to tilt the cross hairs to match, then the angle snaps would be in reference to the new tilted angle.

Thanks Dermot, I'm hesitant to report anything because it's almost a given that my problems are new user issues. The odds of me actually finding a bug... Well I guess I should have bought a lottery ticket!

Here's the plan

Kintz-Model-X8-2.plan

For example, under framing defaults, beams. It is stuck on LVL 1.75x11 7/8. I change it to 6x12 lumber and click done. Then when I go back to defaults it's changed back to LVL. I'll post the plan in a second post

Well I keep trying to set all my framing defaults and when I click done, then open up defaults again many of my changes did not stay put. I'm attempting to make sure none of my layers are locked. What am I missing his time?

You guys have been great today! This would be much harder without you guys. If anyone ever needs any help with structural design issues just let me know.

Thank you sir!

Thank you sir. I would not have thought to look under cabs for framing tools. Worked a charm

I've got a situation where I have an existing room I'm trying to build. The room has a dropped beam in the middle of the ceiling. On one side of the beam I've got an 8' ceiling, on the other side of the beam I've got a 7' ceiling. I'm guessing that the actual framing doesn't change and I've got a furred down soffit for some plumbing or hvac. I'm not really sure at this point but I'd like to get it so the section at least shows the correct ceiling heights. It seems the ceiling tool is intended to work below roofs. What do you guys suggest for this situation?

As I'm working I usually end up with a zillion camera tabs. This is likely because I just click on ortho overview every time I want to see the model instead of trying to find the correct tab I created last time. .

Is there a nifty command in chief to close all the "unsaved" view tabs at once?

Designing the rooms and floor plan on restaurants /bars is the easy part. It's the code check stuff that gets complicated (occupancy, separation where req's, exiting requirements, etc. ). I would consider talking with your planning department before you agree to taking on the work.

This is an existing house I am drawing up and will be doing a major remodel on. That stair is the least of the problems there! Alright I'll post up the plan in the morn

I'm not obsessed with perfection, just wondering if the experts here have any tips on getting a complex wall corner to clean up without having to resort to CAD.

Just to clarify, In the clouded area of my pdf, you will see where the shaded stud wall portions of the walls overlap and create what kind of appears to be a small box. This is the cleanup issue I'm referring to.

I'm having trouble getting these 3 walls to clean up correctly (see the attached pdf). I have a crawl space wall on the top, furred foundation wall on the bottom, and a interior bearing wall on the right. I would like shaded stud portions of the walls to clean up together. Thoughts? Would I be better using two different walls for the furred wall? Or some other sneaky trick?

wall cleanup.pdf

Thank you, that did it. Hard to imagine a use for a flatten tool without an elevation control.

The posts do appear, but they are hanging in the air As well as the footings. The footings are not interacting with the terrain height. Now if I create the terrain boundary on floor 3 this particular deck works as expected, but then the first floor deck footings do not appear at the expected height. My conclusion is that the terrain must be built on the same floor as the deck in order for the footing height to locate correctly per the terrain.

I've got a three story home, deck on the top floor. Will the deck footings and posts not find the terrain like the lower ones? Any sneaky tricks for this?

Also is there a way to specify the distance between the edge of the deck and the deck beam?

and another question to add.. Im trying to use a Flat Region in the terrain tools. After I place the region and then select and open the dbx, there is no where to set the height. What am i missing?

Ok, I did figure out how to do this.. a bit more digging before I post next time!

One more question since I started this. Take a look at the attached section. Why is the grade line not displaying properly (pieces missing) ? Is this just a case of grade lines in section views need to be cleaned up manually or is there a way to fix this?

Section.pdf

Im working on a three story on a sloping lot. The lower floor is similar to a day light basement. The back half of the building footprint is crawl space with no floor (just sloping dirt). I would like the bottom of the crawl space room to have the sloping terrain as the "floor" so it shows correctly in section cuts. Is this possible? I've created an "open to below" type room but where there should be terrain I'm just seeing a hole.

Yep, new user here but that's a nice feature

Thanks for all the thoughts. I will try the single room once before I give up.

How often do you guys use the phone lines to work out your problems? I guess this is a service that comes with the SSA (I'm currently on the rent to own option which includes it) but I've never considered calling before because you guys usually help me out pretty quickly.

Hmmm, does no one use the auto interior dims? The auto exterior dims work fairly well so it seems that that interior ones should at least be close to as good.