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Everything posted by BeeoHat

  1. As they say, persistence pays off. Finally found the problem with the break in the railing walls. When I temporarily deleted the two walls in question, I noticed that, hiding below exactly at that intersection, was a remnant of a not-fully deleted room divider. Deleted it and, bingo, all's good again. Thanks again for the input.
  2. Thanks so much for the input. After MUCH fiddling around, I finally managed to convert the railing to a custom wall type, and added the 3 inch outer layer. It worked everywhere except one inside corner, where there's a break in the two adjoining wall pieces. I've tried every manipulation I know, but can't get the walls to join, as shown in the screenshot. I've also included my plan, hoping someone can give me a "quick fix" Mark's Sept 22 w_ lower
  3. Thanks, Mick, for the prompt response. I'm not at all sure how to define the custom rail/wall type as you suggested. But I did make an attempt. I've attached images of the wall type dbx, the first one unchanged, and the second one with an additional 4 inch outside layer. But the result is nothing like I require. (as seen in the third image). I'd greatly appreciate it if you could provide me with the suggested changes shown in a dbx. Thanks in advance.
  4. I'm modelling my son's as-built home. The deck railing is approx. 4 inches in from the rim joist. But when I construct the deck, the posts and railing are flush to the rim joist, as shown in the attachment. Is there a simple adjustment I'm missing to correct?
  5. Scott, I think you're right. This my very first go at constructing a roof truss, and I hadn't first constructed a truss base. I'm reviewing the reference guide now. Meanwhile, do you have any related videos on YouTube? I find them so instructive.
  6. Scott, My original pics show the problem. I tried your suggestion, selected the offending trusses, and did Force Rebuild. Nothing changed.
  7. Thanks, Scott. That did the job for the "studs thru the window". Is there any similar simple fix for the trusses protruding through the gable roof plane?
  8. Levis, I really appreciate the prompt response. Thanks for the prompt response, Levis. I followed your instructions re: the wall studs, making a new wall type with no drywall. But when i make the wall framing visible, some wall studs are randomly showing in other areas of the house, including through some windows. And when I drew in the trusses, they disregarded a gable roof plane on one wall, and the trusses just protruded right through. I've included some pics, as well as my plan. I'm pretty sure I'm performing the various steps in some incorrect order, but I can't seem to get it right. Any help is much appreciated. Mark's Sept 2 w_ lower
  9. I'm modelling my son's as-built house. The garage walls have not been finished with drywall, so the stud framing is visible. Same for the garage ceiling, only the trusses are visible. Is there any way I can adjust the walls/ceiling, so that the drywall is removed/invisible in camera view, leaving the framing in view? I've tried setting the drywall thickness to zero, but that didn't work. Am I missing something simple?
  10. Many thanks for the suggestions. It appears that memory is the problem, caused mainly by my having other programs open and running. When I run Chief only, rendering times are pretty well back to normal. Thanks again.
  11. I'm modelling my son's as built home. When I started out, any changes/additions to the plan were processed very quickly, and 3D redraws very fast. I've obviously made some change(s) to some settings, because now it takes at least 90 seconds to redraw. Even if I open a dbx to view/confirm some settings, if I click OK I have to wait the 1.5 minutes, and that's even if I made no changes in the dbx. I looked everywhere I know, turning off all auto rebuilds of framing, etc., to no avail. Plan is attached. Help would be appreciated. Mark's Aug
  12. Thanks so much, DJP. Tried to reply earlier but trouble signing in. Finally managed it. Your suggestion worked great!. Only thing I'd like to improve on is the dimensions of the course brick. As can be seen in my jpg., there are far fewer bricks in the casing. I tried all kinds of adjustments in materials, with texture and pattern, but couldn't improve on it. Oh well, maybe that's all I can hope for. Thanks, again.
  13. I am modelling my son's house, which has a few elliptical windows with a brick-end frame surrounding the window frame, as shown in the attached photo. I've tried constructing a polyline moulding, using the concentric edit behaviour tool, and with Coarse Brick as the material. But results were, to say the least, disastrous. Adding the four keystones are not a problem, but getting that concentric circle of end-on brick is eluding me. Anybody out there ever modelled something similar?
  14. Thanks so much, guys. Went into material settings once again. This time I fiddled withe scale settings, and it looks like it did the trick. Just need to fine tune, now.
  15. Thanks for the prompt response, Perry. I've gone in and edited under Plan Material, changed the brick length to 11", added it to the library. As I mentioned, the result seems to appear in Elevation view, but not Perspective view. You mentioned about changing the texture, but I'm satisfied with that. It's only the brick size I need to enlarge.
  16. The house I'm modelling has a larger brick length,about 11 inches, vs. the approx. 7 inches in the library material. I've tried everything to make the bricks bigger, and it appears to work in Elevation view, but the Perspective view remains the same. Two images are attached, one in each view. Is there something simple I'm missing?? The same applies to the polyline solid above the door, with a coarse brick material.
  17. Well, thanks to all the input, I finally got up the nerve to try this manual roof plane construction, and somehow managed to pull it off!! It took a bit of work, but as Gene noted, it was a "very worthwhile exercise". Again, thanks to all for the commentary, and especially Scott's videos, which really got me to try my hand.
  18. How do I accomplish that typical bay roof construct referred to?
  19. My apologies to Jim. On closer inspection, Jim is quite right is suggesting the extra hips. When I think about it, it HAS to be a separate roof plane!! A single plane cannot bend around that hip!!. An updated image is attached. I still need help with it, though.
  20. No, this is not a hip. There are two hips which come off the ridge, only one of which is evident in this photo. These hips form one plane. I've drawn up an illustration in Sketchup to give you a better idea. Image attached. Does this help?
  21. Gene, sorry I missed the diagram in your previous post. In your diagram, there are two crickets showing, on either side of that triangular roof plane. In the subject house, there is only one cricket on each side of the ridge line. This cricket runs straight down from the wall to the gutter. There is no additional triangular roof plane as shown in your diagram.
  22. Gene, I have no better photos at the moment, but yes, that is a level ridge coming out, exactly as you said. It is that ridge I'm trying to emulate. Sorry about the picture quality. There is in fact two crickets there, one right under that snow patch, which has the diverter at the bottom. And another matching cricket on the opposing side (not in view). Hope this helps.
  23. Here's the plan as requested. Thanks for the prompt response. Mark's house May 1
  24. I'm modelling my son's home for a reno. The attached photo shows the roof planes of the deck over the kitchen alcove. My other plan image shows the auto roof generation. I've tried all kinds of manual roof plane manipulation, with no success. It seems to me I would need a gable wall on the house side to generate the desired roof, but of course there's no wall there. Is there some simple setting I'm missing, or does this require some fancy roof plane manipulation??