sunnyseven

Thanks DB. I'll give this a try.

Hi, I'm trying to get the bearings and distances to display as the are recorded in the quadrant and distance boxes when selected. For some reason they don't show the same way on the plan. Anyone know how to have them display differently short of typing in my own text? Thanks.

Thanks Glenn.

Hi, I'm attempting to draw some property lines and would like to display the distance in decimal feet and the bearing in the quadrant style. I've gone to the angle display box and checked both of these options but that's not what's happening. For instance one property line is N34*42'00"W but does not show it like this, (I substituted an asterisk for the degree symbol here). The distance is supposed to display as 347.39' but does not show up this way. Any suggestions as to how to get these to behave? Also, how do you change the size of the notations? Thanks.

Any engineers in CA who are licensed to do structural calculations as well as energy and fire sprinklers interested in doing some work?

Yes, that's exactly the look I'm after. Thanks.

I'll look into all this. Thanks Michael.

Hi, I'm having trouble graying out the walls underlying my roof framing drawing. I can go to the display options and gray out the windows, doors, etc., by selecting the color, but attempting to gray out "walls normal", which is what the layer is for the walls, doesn't seem to have the same effect. The wall assembly does have several colors involved which leads me to believe the color can't be changed from where I'm attempting to do it. There is only one color represented in the layer set. Anyone have any ideas? X10. Thanks.

I found a saved version from before the problem that works. I'm guessing the problem must have something to do with a weird roof thing that I was attempting to do. It made the plan too big for the page, even though it wasn't showing. I could tell something was up when I was drawing that thing. Don't know why it affected printing going forward though. Thanks for taking a look at it everyone.

Yes, I think you're correct in that my page setup is wrong. I'm just unsure how to fix it. I don't seem to have a lot in the way of options as I've clicked on everything that will allow and looked into it. Any idea how to get back to just clicking on print and having the view I'm looking at on the screen pop up in the window?

The send to layout thing didn't really work all that well. It printed in miniature size. I wish there were some way to just reset to where it was yesterday but I have no idea what changed.

I'll try sending to layout. Thanks for the tip.

Here's what it looks like in print preview.

The drawing behind used to show up on the page that is now blank. I'm noticing it says one of one pages but at some point it told me it was the first of over 1800 pages. It's a mystery to me.

I'm not exactly sure how to reply here, but I'll attach a screen shot of what comes up. If there is something else it would be useful for you to see, please let me know. Thanks.

Hi, I'm having trouble getting a page printed off the plan view. When I send the page to the printer it takes forever to load and then says 1 of 1800 pages. What shows up is a blank page to be printed but I'm guessing it's a corner of the page divided into 1800 pieces. I tried switching to pdf., same blank page in the preview box. I tried resetting chief in the preference dialog but that didn't work. I'm not sure what to do next. Any ideas? I could simply click on print and the page printed fine at 95% up until a few hours ago. I was trying to get it to fill the page better and did something wrong, although I'm not sure what. Thanks, Tom

Okay, thanks.

Hi, I'm wondering why a symbol I'm using to show a soffit detail shows up in full overview and not in cross section views. Anyone know? Thanks. X10.

Yes, we are not allowed to wet set foundation bolts or holdowns in the silicon valley area or any of northern CA that I'm aware of.

Wet set means sticking the holdowns in position as you pour. We used to do this out on Maui. In CA holdowns have to be secured in place prior to pouring. Foundation bolts as well. Much better practice.

No worries. I know Richard Morrison does his own calculations and gets on here from time to time so perhaps he'd know. Thanks anyway.

I believe Laticrete has a system whereby you can use a fluid applied membrane over concrete or block, apply a scratch coat of their proprietary material and adhere lightweight veneers directly to that. No lathing required which means no penetrating the membrane. What I'm wondering is whether or not anyone has come across examples of lightweight veneers that aren't designed to look like stone. I can't seem to find any examples of this sort of thing by searching the internet but maybe someone on here would know about more contemporary variations on veneer products. Thanks, Tom

I'm building in California, on the side of a mountain. I suppose the abbreviation CA could mean Canada as well, although I wasn't aware of that. So when you put a footing under a load bearing interior wall, do you preset threaded rod in the footings so they can grab the bottom plate that sits on the slab? I'm thinking the footings would be below the slab, which would be done in a monolithic pour, for convenience sake. I know we're not allowed to wet set foundation bolts but I've never seen what I'm talking about done before.

Okay. Are there any structural engineers, and/or architects, on this forum who know the answer to my question?

I have a question for an architect out there who is familiar with CA building codes. I'm planning using concrete block for the exterior walls of a house. I'm figuring on digging some footings, building the exterior walls, then pouring 4" of concrete for interior floors. What I'm wondering about is interior walls. Should I be planning on footings underneath all the interior walls? If so, is it typical to place threaded rod in those footings that will extended up through the slab in order to anchor the interior walls. I'm sure some of those walls will be structural when it comes to the roof. I've built structural slabs before, which would resolve the issue, but in this instance I don't want the elevation gain. Thanks, Tom