caf200

I watched this CA Tips and Tricks video today (on YT at x1.75 speed). It was *fantastic*.
 

Title: 3D Rendering: Tips and Tricks (Re-Run)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dr-OVDo2kmI

It appears going from X12 (HD 2021) to X13 (HD 2022) that countertop material is no longer automatically seamless (ie. from 1 slab of quartz, etc).  I did a search but didn't find others with this problem. It seems like it would have been more common so I must be missing something.

I opened a support case and they confirmed it. They are reporting the bug ("issue" as they call them) to development.   They suggested that I resolve it by "group-selecting any sets of base cabinets affected by this and clicking the Generate Custom Countertop edit button. This will create a countertop polyline that is independent of the cabinets below it that is not affected by the tiling issue."

This worked for some rooms (masterbath attached). but not all because the backsplash (and side wall) can be handled differently.  Example in the kitchenette (attached BEF/AFT)  the sidewall backsplash was not wanted but showed up in the workaround.  They had me remove backsplash from the cabinets and create a custom backsplash.

On 10/14/2014 at 2:45 PM, DavidJPotter said:

A kind Chief Talk user made this library awhile back and is what I use to get decent results for this material.

 

I suppose the "reason" is that the default "Stainless Steel" is merely a color and when you have a material that is composed of a color and a texture it is easier to get better visual results from such a "material"

 

DJP

Stainless Steel.calibz 18.87 kB · 319 downloads

On 10/15/2014 at 2:30 PM, Cheryl_C_Crane said:

Look in the Formica Folder of the Manufacturers Library > DecoMetal> Solid Metal. There are some great textures that Ray Trace well. I like 4194 & 4245. There are many others that make for a way to have Sinks out of one material and the faucet out of another. For instance, I like sinks out of 4194 and the faucet in 4245. The subtle changes are also good for things like appliance labels & hardware.

 

I like to use the Formica wood-grains, too. With woods I dial back the reflectivity.

 

Hope that you find them as useful as I have.

Thank you both.I was trying to find something to get closer to the GE Stainless Steel fridge we looked at today.

Attached was my attempt to show the comparisons. Hopefully it helps someone.

2 hours ago, Renerabbitt said:

Ah I see the disconnect, MY lack of specificity.
When you export an image using the image exporter(alt,f,e,p) you have the option to export as a png and enable Transparent Background. So my suggestion is that you use a backdrop with little to no predominant colors or keep the backdrop turned off, then export as a png with transparent background and simple replace the background in an image editor..
Also, here is a short vid showing sun manipulation and backdrop editing:

 

Re:  image exporter(alt,f,e,p)

Thank you for the extra details. I was talking about the background image being used and you were talking about generating an 3D camera image.

I did a test and found it very interesting and unexpected processing that the CA "Transparent Background" option does.

It appears to remove the background image from the windows, THEN re-render, then export that image.  I say that based on

a comparison of both images. See the ceiling above my window which was my clue. 

I made a GIF between to exports with and without using the 'Transparent Background' option so hopefully it demonstrates it.

The GIF animation works OK in the below image on my Win 10 Chrome browser current settings. 

Aside: GIF tool I used: https://ezgif.com/maker

Help related to Transparent background:

Quote

Check Transparent Background to produce alpha transparency in the spaces between all objects that can be seen in the current view. Transparency associated with Fill and Text Styles is retained, as well.

2 hours ago, Renerabbitt said:

Just thought I would chime in with a couple of thoughts. If people finding this thread really want to improve their renderings it would be a good idea to learn a photo editing software and replace the backdrop altogether. Yes the backdrop will cast light into your scene, so why not do away with it and export as a .png with transparent background. From there you simply drop in a new backdrop. Takes all of 2 minutes and then you aren't dealing with color casting. I still use the backdrop in some scenes but its important to manually rotate your sun. 
I never turn down my sun settings, but when you rotate the sun, you will find that it stops illuminating your backdrop depending on the angle of rotation. 
The only setting then that I change is the suns angle and backdrop intensity. It takes me nearly no time, just a few minutes

Great tips as usual. Hard to argue with your success.

I did find that rotating the sun did change the 'color casting' a fair amount.  In our current plan, I have a 7a, 12p, 9p, and midnight from our particular lat/long mid-summer.

Re: png transparent

I think this can vary a lot based on what parts of the image you make transparent.

This online website works pretty well and it an relatively easy to use interface with some flexibility (orange rectangles).

https://onlinepngtools.com/create-transparent-png

On 3/1/2022 at 10:41 AM, caf200 said:

* I have 100% seen the greenish tint / cast in my PBR views and it is AWFUL and unrealistic.  It definitely seems to be related to my backgrounds (one has a lot of trees).  The backgrounds and daylight reflections off of them through the window really seemed to have a negative influence.  I cared about room lighting and not unrealistic leaf reflections  

Here is an example of simply changing "toggle sunlight" between day vs night setting in my PBR render and the differences is dramatic IMO.  Night in general for me gives me the best feel and in real life that is when we'd typically have guest over and use more accent lighting. See the greenish tint ... and yes I realize the leafs don't help.

Aside: ignore some of the extra brightness of shelf lighting as I was experimenting with lumen and angles. Also experimenting with how can lights reflect of horizontal beam surfaces (threw up some horizontal soffits as an experiment).

Compare tip for below picts. Click on one and then use left and right keyboard arrow to swap back and forth.

2 minutes ago, Kbird1 said:

The Color cast issue from backgrounds has been around since we got PBR 4-5 years ago , and it seems in X13 the Lumen levels are even higher ( though labelled the same eg 100,000 ) , which has made 3D Viewer Exports for me unusable for Client Viewing as they as so overexposed you can't see colors well especially on the Interior.  M.

My son and I have different computer setups (graphics) but we adjust the 'Camera Exposure' down (I use 0.03).  Not sure if you've played with that?

Default settings --> 3D View Defaults

On 11/18/2021 at 10:02 AM, sthieldesign said:

I am really struggling with the coloring of the Physical Based Renderings. They cast a pink or blue/green color to everything. I have adjusted backgrounds and sun saturation to no avail.  Anyone have any tips?  I have attached some examples.

15 hours ago, Renerabbitt said:

I would STRONGLY discourage both of these options. Why are you turning off your background and setting no sun? The OP's desired result is a daylit condition with a background.

I very much respect your opinion and work I've seen ... however ...

* It was not 100% that daylight condition was a requirement. She also had one bathroom picture.   

* It seems that to really understand one aspect of lighting is to see it a night or on a very cloudy day.  That is when the lights are critical for task, ambient, or accent depending on your 'use case'.

* I have 100% seen the greenish tint / cast in my PBR views and it is AWFUL and unrealistic.  It definitely seems to be related to my backgrounds (one has a lot of trees).  The backgrounds and daylight reflections off of them through the window really seemed to have a negative influence.  I cared about room lighting and not unrealistic leaf reflections  

Hope that helps explain my angle and answer. 

On 11/18/2021 at 10:02 AM, sthieldesign said:

I am really struggling with the coloring of the Physical Based Renderings. They cast a pink or blue/green color to everything. I have adjusted backgrounds and sun saturation to no avail.  Anyone have any tips?  I have attached some examples.

For the OP for future searchers.

a) I usually toggle off daylight.

and/or

b) Menu 3D then Edit Active Camera to remove background then change Background Color to Black.

On 1/16/2022 at 1:32 AM, stephenbc said:

I find that depending on the light you use, sometimes if the 'spot' is selected and the direction of the light isn't straight down (as in the dialogue box below), light can travel through walls and even floors.  

Perhaps this user stretched or change the size of a light they put in.

That "show position in camera view" is excellent for several things.   

If you change the size of a light the x-y-z coordinates of the light source still comes from the *original* location in the light fixture. Seems like an obvious bug and CA should adjust the Y coordinate to be relative to the size change.

On 2/15/2022 at 7:31 PM, proformacon said:

Has anyone with a Mac had issues with rendering? Photo example attached, Also sending a view to layout live sometimes is the same thing or it just gets off halfway, etc. Just upgraded to X13 so would really like a fix if there is one. 

Just in case...

Not sure if you the same options on the mac.  I had an issue with my new Surface Pro and had to go to tech support.  This was one workaround for my issue.

Quote

1. Go to Edit>Preferences
2. Go to the Render panel
3. Check the box for Texture Compression and click OK.

I looked up that option in the help (Index tab and render search word) and here is what it said.

Quote

When Texture Compression is checked, material textures are compressed so that less video memory is required when a 3D view is generated. Texture Compression takes time, however, so view generation will typically be slower.

While I was in the CA help system looking up Exporting a 3D Model (DAE Format COLLADA™) for a light designer we are hiring ...

... I found the help text related to this under:

Moving Objects Using Dimensions

PDF and JPG attached.

I think when searching for it before I was looking in the 'index' tab instead of the general help search tab.

Chief Architect tech writers actually do one HECK of a job.  Their help is impressive overall.   As are their videos and online blogs/articles.

HELP Moving Objects Using Dimensions.pdf

3 hours ago, Alaskan_Son said:

It seems to me like you may just have a fundamental misunderstanding of how the program works with regard to its associative dimensions.  You don't change the dimension line, you move the object.  That means you must select the object that you would like to move and not the dimension line itself.  Once you select the object, then you can click on the desired dimension (assuming the dimension is actually associated with/connected to that object). 

 

As a side note, if you're trying to select an object in a busy area, it also helps if you have the same tool type activated as the object type you're trying to move.  If for example, you're trying to select the Point Marker that you dropped with your Point To Point Dimension tool, you want to have the Point Marker tool activated an not the Dimension tool.  You can also simply switch to the Select Object tool which will select the top object in the draw order and then hot the Tab key to Select Next until you get to the desired object.  Again though, you select the object and then edit any one of the associated dimensions.

Thank you for taking the time for the additional terminology and tips. Much appreciated.  Great "side note" as well.  I knew some of that but not all. Hopefully this thread as well as some of my attachments help future users.

Indeed, I originally was misunderstanding and could not figure out the pattern of when I "easily" got it to work and then "not for my life" could not get it to work.  Probably did not help that I was using both P2P and E2E. As well that P2P would dynamically change to E2E (or perhaps it is P2E).   I understand selecting the "object" on the end of the dimension you want to move and changing the dimension.  The generic "object" which can be the '+' or point.

My mental block was partially due to a mindset to change the dimension of things (albeit often physical things) I would use the dialog box (aka dbx in some circles) interface OR just drag "points" (diamond, square, etc) that is on the border of the "thing" after you select it.

With the generous help from a few, I seem to have a knack for it now and could quickly and smoothly modify my garage ceiling lights (etc) yesterday. [wall-to-light, light-to-light, etc].   Also clicking the larger dimension value is way easier than clicking the thin line which sometimes worked for me.

One defn I looked up in a CAD class:  "Associative dimensions adjust to changes in the geometric objects that they measure. Dimension associativity defines the relationship between geometric objects and the dimensions that give their distance and angles."

On 7/1/2021 at 6:22 PM, javatom said:

Make sure the electrician knows about this.  The outlet for the motor goes in that area not the usual spot on the ceiling.

On 7/1/2021 at 6:27 PM, Chopsaw said:

 

Still a good idea to have the ceiling outlet as that is the best place for the light usually.

For future searchers. 

I was looking for CA lib image for these "new" wall garage door openers for my project and stumbled in this thread.  Adding/repeating info with images.

FYI, I just built a soffit ‎7.5 x 7.9 x 21.5 in black metal rough. Then added a "Utilitarian Towel Bar" 120 x 3 x 4 at 100 high to the bottom. Image below.

I'm currently planning for a LiftMaster 8500 in our new home and making sure there is still:

1) an outlet in the ceiling for the light which I'm putting just past a fully opened garage door so it shines light even when open (advantage over old style openers).

2) an outlet near the wall mounted unit.  I'm putting two in and they both can go between the garage doors and share the same outlet. They are only ~1.7 amps with the light.

1 hour ago, jasonn1234 said:

it is not always the case with p2p. if p2p snaps to an object, then you can select that object and then click on the dimension number to change. You have to be careful where it is snapping to, drywall vs stud.

 

It is one reason why I use p2p a lot as it works in both cases (snapping and point marker). For me, I only really every use p2p, auto exterior and interior dimension tools... and storey pole. of course I also create new dimensions, delete dimensions from the auto exterior to suite my needs

Excellent point.  Thx. I just played with it and it seems like it automatically converted my P2P to an E2E ... then I could click on the object and get the finger pointer to change the dimension.

[UPDATE: I realized when you are doing a P2P and are dragging the line that when you cross and object that the mouse will change from a '+' (point) to a '|' (end) if you are in the center of the object. So without letting off the mouse button you can see it change back and forth as you move your mouse around.]

When I do P2P, I've learned to zoom as much as possible so that I could make sure I get the drywall edge as an example.

2 hours ago, glennw said:

 

What is the "tiny line"?

You are not understanding the basics of this operation.

You do not need a dbx.

Select the object you want to move, click on the dimension text, a box will pop up displaying the dimension (in your example it is the box with 8' in it), the dimension value will be hilighted, change it to what you want, hit Enter, the selected object will move. 

 

 

2 hours ago, jasonn1234 said:

if you are dimensioning to nothing(which looks like you are on the left), it will put a point marker there. To change the dimension you have to click on the point marker then the dimension number

 

this was very frustraing for me as well until i figured it out. it is still difficult if the dimension is small

 

I did mention both types in my OP -- "dimension lines (end to end OR point to point)."

I think I'm getting closer to being able to use it easier.  Thanks to both of you for helping me understand this.  There must be built in help on this or a video. I was perplexed. Probably because I was using both types for different task I was doing and I could get it to work sometimes and didn't understand or see the pattern (hence my frustration).

I provided pictures to help other users (future reference) and exemplify my response below.

Attached 1) End to End [E2E] -- works pretty much as was described but you when the finger pointer icon changes (green arrow below), then you can clear on the dimension text or *close* to the dimension line.

Attached 2) Point to Point [P2P] -- if you click on one of the points (red arrow below) then your mouse turns into a finger pointer icon (green arrow below) and you can click on the 'tiny line' of the arrow.  This works GREAT!

Thanks much!!!

Geez. I know but assume it works the same in both products from the same company.  ARE you saying it works differently in HD vs CA? Please clarify.

On hometalk forum there is very little activity and many post the response is to tell the poster to fix their signature  without trying to help them at all.

There must be something I'm missing on the interaction with dimension lines (end to end [E2E] OR point to point [P2P]).  Frustrating.  Wasting time.

How do you consistently get the dialog box up that allows you to manually change that line. ie. instead of 8' 7 1/8" to 8' 6"?    It seems like hit or miss trying to hit that tiny line (zooming in or not as it is so thin).  As well, do you have to hit an arrow on one end or the other because that is the one it moves and leaves the other end at it's location?

They COULD have made this SO much simpler if they just optionally had it in the open object dialog box where you could change the length (on one end or the other). 

I tried looking at the help system but it just talked about the dialog box vs mouse clicks to get into a short-cut of changing the dimension.

Stretch to fit was a good tip.  I was trying this on a bedroom wall where the other side of the wall was the bathroom and I couldn't get it to show up.

Turns out I was a noob and the bathroom wall was considered 'interior' and the bedroom wall was considered 'exterior'. 

Once I set the settings to the below it worked as expected.

• Top to Ceiling: 12 1/4" [Trey Ceiling]
• Height: 96"
• Floor to Bottom: 0"
• Wall side: Exterior