plannedRITE

Not a perfect example, as it continues to the end walls, but I imagine that it would likely be similar. Though this builder is working on a different one of our projects, this isn't one of ours so I don't have details that I can share. 

https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cn4cUHorowQ/

I'm interested to see how you detail it out, share updates!

37 minutes ago, robdyck said:

Well, I think so...if you post your plan file or send me a PM with a dropbox / google drive link to download your plan file, I'll take a look and see how I can help.

I can't share this one but, as a reference, here are the included framing categories. No rim joist, I checked older versions as well with the same result. (To be clear, I'm really not that concerned about this, custom categories are a quick workaround even though it's a bandaid. Just odd to me since Chief has rim joists as a Role and even an OOTB layer.)

8 minutes ago, robdyck said:

I'm not seeing that behavior. This likely means you've used a rim joist for a joist, or your schedule doesn't include the appropriate categories to differentiate.

The only way that I'm seeing to differentiate the two is to manually set one of them to report to a custom schedule category. The default framing categories do not include rim joists as a standalone option. Am I missing something?

51 minutes ago, Renerabbitt said:

you can make anything that reports to a schedule report to a custom schedule.

Yeah, not sure why I'm trying to go about it a different way.

This was a bit of a stupid question...I've worked on this template for too long 

Not a great title but I'm not sure how to best summarize.

Is there a way to create separate schedules for the same framing categories within the same view/plan? It almost works perfectly by using rooms but the rim joists are not contained within a room, darn it. Can I somehow create a schedule for the members in Module "A" and a separate one for Module "B"?

I'm hoping to accomplish something similar to this:

I also noticed that chief puts rim joists and floor joists both under the same category for schedules, even though they are specified under different "Roles". Not sure if much can be done about that one.

I appreciate the input.

17 hours ago, rgardner said:

So assuming the following;

1. That you just want that page in your final documents as it is from the engineer with their title block.

2. You want to add that page to your sheet index

 

If this is the case then you can do what I usually do with any consultants’ sheets and not import the pages at all in Chief.  I will put a blank page with the engineers sheet name/number and place a single cad item on that page so the sheet will show in the index appropriately. Print the pdf set and then use any standard pdf viewer to remove the empty sheets and add the engineers sheets.  It results with the full set with structural sheets included both in the location you want them as well as how you want them and you don’t get file bloat from importing a pdf into a sheet.  I use this technique with structural and mechanical engineers, title 24, cal green, interior designers, spec sheets. etc.

This is exactly how we do it. It's the way to go.

I haven't tried adding them to Chief in a few versions but I know that it used to skyrocket the file size when done that way, never understood why. 

1 hour ago, GeneDavis said:

Sounds like panelized, not modular.

 

Since you're editing all those framing elevations to show blocking (and more), it's just a click and drag to get the plate-thru-door thing.

 

Chief will autoframe it if you do the door-raise-and-shorten thing, but that has its downsides.  Editing the plate is fast and easy.

 

But hey, if you think Chief should have an option in autoframe for this, make the suggestion.

Exactly. They are panelized walls for modular construction, per the company, but that's precisely what we are creating.

And yes, at this point that is our process. Although, wouldn't it be neat if Chief acted on suggestions? This is low on the totem pole of things I've discussed with them so I'll just deal with it for now 

20 minutes ago, GeneDavis said:

I gotta ask @plannedRITE.    What's the point of this?  If it's for material list accuracy, don't the extra cut lengths added by pro users to cover culls and the full-plate under doors cover this?  Sure, we frame the walls this way and then cut after, but why exactly show this in elevations?  

 

A good framer puts in blocking for cabinets, fixtures like towel and toilet paper holders, and more places.  Are you detailing this all out in your framing details, so the material list gets counts for blocking?

It's for modular home construction so the wall details do have to be highly detailed. Yes, blocking for cabinets and whatnot are a part of the drawings. But due to the modular nature, the continuous bottom plate is needed for transporting the walls. Just trying to stick with their current process as closely as possible for a smooth transition to our work.

As much as I'd prefer to not break the auto wall framing, I do believe that it has to happen due to this bottom plate situation as well as adding in the blocking...oh well. Fortunately, these aren't created until we have the rest of the plans finished so there *shouldn't* be changes that would cause a need to rebuild the wall framing.

Is there a setting that I may be overlooking to build the bottom plate at a door opening? (Yes, it is something we need)

Since manually bringing across the bottom plate stops the auto wall framing, I really would like to avoid that option...as we are providing wall framing details for every wall.

Thank you!

1 hour ago, HumbleChief said:

Thanks Ethan it does indeed look easy but brain's just not grasping the technique. I'll try again.

All good! It can be tricky but I've done a few like this lately so it just happens to be somewhat fresh in my brain. 

You'll need to close the plan in Chief and then share the file or it won't share properly. It can't be opened.

Solver's suggestion does appear to work. I just added a casing (the size didn't seem to affect it but I wanted to check) to the lower windows and it cut the molding. It can be exterior or interior casing of any size. Mulling them back together keeps it cut. I'm not sure what causes that but, as Chris said, it cuts fine until it is 2" from the floor. If building 2" from the floor like your model shows, add the casing.

5 minutes ago, usermatt said:

I apologize if this is a obvious answer, but I have been searching through the forum and videos for a couple hours and am still totally stuck.  I am doing an as built of a small cabin and have exposed trusses.  If I look at my left and right walls, they look to match and if I look at my left and right roof planes they also seem to match on everything I can change, but the top plate and heel height are different.  However, those are linked to all the other heights so I can't change them.  In the attached pic you can see that one side has a birdsmouth and the other has a tiny birdsmouth.  What I am actually trying to do is eliminate the birdsmouth on both.  

 

Any suggestions?

Can you share the .plan file? 

21 minutes ago, HumbleChief said:

Been struggling (getting used to it) again with this crazy house I'm trying to design from old plans and can't figure out how to draw the stair condition in the attached pic. Thank You

Let us know what part is stumping you so that we can hopefully get you pointed in the right direction. There aren't to many steps to copy this. Here's a quick, ugly example but when I run into similar stairways I typically do a good portion of the work in an elevation view using some quick cad lines as a reference and to give snapping points to get the wall slope right. 

Make that stairwell it's own room with a room divider at the foot. Manually bring down one corner of the adjacent wall to slope it to match the stairs. It should be very similar to building out any stairwell inside of a home.

Potentially easier is to break up the wall, make the sloped portion a solid railing, and set it to follow stairs. I have issues occasionally with this so I often revert to manually moving it. 

46 minutes ago, Renerabbitt said:

I didnt manually drag anything

What did you change exactly? Mine won't build like that but continues to build as I screenshot in my last comment.

6 minutes ago, jtcapa1 said:

Wow, that is a lot of visual space! Do you need to adjust your font sizes so you can read all the menu's?

Not at all, it works beautifully out of the box. Other than when I'm not in office and using Chief on a laptop or hooked up to a TV, I've only every used ultrawides with Chief. Prior to this one I used a typical 21:9 34" that I moved to my draftsman's desk. The extra space is wonderful to work with while not requiring me to move back and forth between monitors. 

22 minutes ago, Renerabbitt said:

any reason not to change the footing height for that wall?

I sure can, that's part of the workaround. Change that height and manually drag the bottom of the wall on floor 1 up. But that's a big part of this overall issue, that the footing and stem isn't following the floor height of the room that it should (in theory) be assigned to. 

8 minutes ago, Renerabbitt said:

your patio pour number should not superceded that of the higher elevation slab, its a priority, not an order of operations

Interesting, that's a breakthrough for me. I haven't seen that documented anywhere but that will probably fix a number of foundation issues I've brought on myself. That explains the first part of the issue I've had.

As for the second issue of that stem wall/footing between the 2 pours, is there a chief recommended way (that you've seen) to have it built at the correct elevation? Instead of having it drop down like so:

7 minutes ago, jtcapa1 said:

Can you post a screen shot of Chief running on that one?

Seems like having 38" would stretch things, but you also have two flanking monitors.

 

I've got a 55" 4k monitor on my standing desk, so I rotate sitting and standing every hour.

I do like not having to strain to see details.  I'm going to have to rethink my setup now.

Sure, here is a screenshot-

4 minutes ago, rgardner said:

That is the direction of the wall.   Ie interior or exterior side of the wall.

 

seeing how you have already gotten a downvote you may want to refrain from marking your own answer as the correct answer unless it is the chief recommended way.

 

 

You're, of course, correct in that that is how it should behave (and almost always does). Unfortunately, that is not always the case. This situation is a good example of that, setting the exterior side in the correct orientation (or even reversing it as a test) does not change the wall/footing from grabbing properties from the patio (incorrect).
 

Seeing that there is no chief recommended way (if anyone would like to show me otherwise I would be ecstatic!), the downvote is pretty darn unhelpful.

Just now, Renerabbitt said:

This is a super old screen, one of the first gen 4K 120hz. I’ve spent so much $$ on equipment the last 3 years, I’m not ready to drop any more on a screen, 

never had any problems reading text on this though  I would prefer the ultra wide curved monitors honestly.. this thing is an ergonomic nightmare 

Man, you are missing out. Hop on the 21:10 curved ultrawide bandwagon and never look back!

Back to workarounds but I have it displaying correctly. Chief needs to allow us to choose what room a wall will pull its properties from, that would fix this issue and others that result in manual workarounds.

All of the mono pour areas (rooms and footings) have to be set to the same pour number (though this is incorrect).

Then the shared walls footing height has to be set 4" shorter.

Then you have to manually drag the bottom of floor 1's wall up 4". The corner that stays down also has to be manually dragged up 4". This is an issue with lowered mono slabs across Chief.

13 minutes ago, KenL-sdd said:

@plannedRITE Ethan, what is your center monitor model? I might change out my center monitor.

LG 38GN950-B

Excellent monitor, I spent too long researching before pulling the trigger on this one. I always refer to rtings.com when it comes to purchasing monitors.

The renewed one is darn cheap on Amazon right now, I'm shocked.

2 minutes ago, para-CAD said:

Yes. I use point-to-point move a lot and at least half the time, when I grab an object at an end or corner, once I start moving the object, I notice that the cursor and snap point are not located the same. My cursor will be a slight distance away from my chosen snap point. This results in having to place the object somewhere and retry the P2P move. 
 

Also, 3D solids have multiple snap points on a corner, when viewed in 2D. The snap symbol (circle in square), will jump around when the cursor is hovered over the corner. Feels loosely gooses at times. 

Yes, the point-to-point move issue has driven me nuts for quite a while. I've brought it up in the past but have just been told (can't remember if by chief or other users) "you're moving too fast!" Not a good answer, I sure would like that fixed as well.

3840x1600 primary monitor (I'll NEVER go back to a 16x9 as my primary display again) and 2 2560x1440s on the sides. Primary always runs chief. Left monitor usually runs my browser (emails, forums, IRC, parcel viewer, etc.) and the right generally runs PDFs, pictures, or youtube/plex for videos while working. The right monitor is also on a fully articulating arm so that when clients sit on the opposite side of the desk I can move the monitor to keep it between us for easy reference.

Google display below for calendar/time/smart home controls. Phone site below as well on a stand.

43" TV on the wall between my draftsman's and my desks. It is used as digital signage, rotating wallpaper of projects we've worked on (clients love this and frequently use images that pop up as a reference when the meet us in office) or our project management queue in Trello.

My draftsman sits behind me and hooks his laptop up to an ultrawide primary display in the middle with a 16x9 on the opposite side, also giving him a 3 display setup like mine.

I use a Master MX Master 3 mouse, the extra per app controls are extremely useful in Chief. I'm a keyboard nerd and have built a ton, this setup works best for me. 65% with a macropad to the left, the macropad has a handful of hotkeys for chief tied to it as well as being a numberpad. I'll eventually pick up a spacemouse, I just don't have much space for it...

I think that covers everything?