Ravenquills

UPDATE

This is a link to extreme panels they have DWG files for general, wall, floor,and roof. I had forgotten I have them all downloaded but rather than post all their files if you go to:

https://www.extremepanel.com/construction-details/

and scroll down you can get as few or as many as you want.

They are in PDF as well.

5 minutes ago, Renerabbitt said:

Awesome work, gave you a plus 1, do you have any of these in DWG form or a .plan file with these drawn in CAD?

Not yet i am slowly working on it but being self taught it probably takes me 5 times as long. let me spend a little time looking through my files i may have some DWG files from the manufacturer. I am being a little schizo right now trying to make a final decision on manufacturer......

Sips detail pdf's

There are also some spec sheets and construction guides in this set of attachments. I have been using them since it seems virtually everything to do with creating a set of plans using SIPS has to be manually done....Most of these are from one manufacturer but they can be modified depending on you use. I have other systems as well. Message me for more.

Hope they are of use to some others.

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r-control_sip-104.pdf

r-control_sip-109.pdf

r-control-load-design-chart.pdf

joist connection (1).pdf

joist connection.pdf

SIP_Specification06120.pdf

sip-specification-thermocore.pdf

listing-report-thermocore.pdf

architectural-details.pdf

architectural-specifications.pdf

installation-manual-complete.pdf

ThermapanDesignHandbook.pdf

ThermapanInstallationManual-ExteriorWalls.pdf

ThermapanInstallationManual-Floors.pdf

ThermapanInstallationManual-FoundationSIPs.pdf

ThermapanInstallationManual-Nailbase.pdf

ThermapanInstallationManual-Roofs.pdf

1 hour ago, Joe_Carrick said:

2x12 splines at the edge of the panels don't show up in the framing.  I guess I'll just have to add those elements manually.  I'm considering just modeling a full panel and placing them without building the Floor Framing.

You seem to be the only other person I have run into out here that is utilizing SIPs in your designs as much as, actually even more than I am. I have found that I have to customize every element of the SIP's panels whether for flooring or walls/roofs and the program seems to fight me every step of the way. I am following the "Builders Guide  to Structured Insulated Panels (SIPs) for all Climates" by Joe L Stiburek for all my details including CAD and custom materials. If a solution to this problem is found please let me know since I am dealing with similar issues.

Thanks

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1 hour ago, Renerabbitt said:

Keep them on the second floor, you can adjust offsets in the fixture's open-object dbx. You can also edit offset in 2d sections or 3d space. The delete surface tool an d convert to symbol tools can help you if you have a fixture with a base built for a flat ceiling. 

Thank you!

Hello All:

I am designing a house with all cathedral ceilings on the second floor. The idea is to have all the duct work etc exposed. In some areas I would like to do some sloped soffits for light fixtures. So the question is and it may be stupid is do i place everything on the attic level so that it is on the ceiling?

Thanks 

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27 minutes ago, ShaneK said:

I beat tech support by 1 hour with same advice.

Yes you did and i followed your advice

Hopefully the developers can fix the "bug"

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Setting can be found here:

19 minutes ago, Evolution said:

Hm? I checked the BT driver yesterday, but (although I'm basically technically illiterate) there wasn't anything I saw that seemed problematic? I'll do a search.

I see that i have a features update to windows ten that was downloaded on my system. I have a blue tooth mouse so I am going to go ahead and restart and see if my mouse starts to act up. Will report back shortly.

Wish me luck!

I HAVE RESTARTED AND THE MOUSE IS BEHAVING FINE.

Windows 10 pro

version 1903

OS Build 18362.207

Keep in mind I use a surface studio so others may end up with a different build.

Actually the mouse seems have less lag than it did. The lag was never horrible but it was noticeable. for  what that is worth. I am using a logitech blue tooth track ball mouse.

3 minutes ago, TheKitchenAbode said:

Bluetooth and WiFi are two distinctly different forms of wireless communication

They are different but they both use 2.4Ghz Frequency to communicate with devices so sometimes other devices that pour out RFI across multiple spectrum can affect them. I suspect this is either a driver or windows update issue regardless.

  16 minutes ago, Ravenquills said:

 

 

Just one last question, are you networked through wireless? I spoke to my husband who does all our IT infrastructure and he pointed out to me that when i was having intermittent problems he had to move the wireless booster in my office to fix them.

 

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"Yes networked through wifi, however; have been for the last 3 years, and the issue only started this week. I shut the server down, and restarted it the signal strength is strong and that didn't help either.

I have another blue tooth mouse on my PC that is about a year old. I seldom use it, but loaded it on this tablet, and nothing changed. I ran the driver updater for the mouse I use all the time and the messages says the driver is up to date. I tried rolling it back but that option is grayed out and I'm not sure why?"

Interesting. This sounds like a windows update issue to me. Have you looked to see if you were the victim of what i refer to as a windows update drive by? I would check under windows update and see if you had an update the night before the mouse went nuts. If so you would try rolling that back and see if it fixes it. If not you idea to go to the computer repair guy might be the best bet.

I wish you the best of luck  in getting it fixed. It is so frustrating not having our tools work right!

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28 minutes ago, Evolution said:

I may just go get a new one today and see if that makes any difference?

That may be it. As Mark says above I have sometimes had problems after windows updates. It could just be though that the mouse is worn out. If cleaning does not work, or buying a new mouse does not work then I would say it is a windows 10 issue. I wish you the best.

Just one last question, are you networked through wireless? I spoke to my husband who does all our IT infrastructure and he pointed out to me that when i was having intermittent problems he had to move the wireless booster in my office to fix them.

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2 hours ago, Evolution said:

My blue tooth mouse began going crazy when I'm attempting to draw. 

This may seem weird but i have noticed that if I have either my vape or my cell phone anywhere near my mouse it does the same thing. Have you recently placed something near your mouse that uses rechargeable batteries or creates interference. 

Hi everyone this is the answer Support provided:

6 hours ago, Ravenquills said:

Please send it in to tech support.

I submitted a case to tech support once I have an answer I will post it back here.

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9 hours ago, solver said:

Maybe a bug. You can see how the lower skin (colored blue) is offset when soffits are off.

 

Pull the top edge of the garage roof back and you will see it's the same.

 

9 hours ago, Chopsaw said:

Please send it in to tech support.

 

In the mean time replace layer 4 of your SIP with "Insulation Air Gap" for your rendered views.

 

Thanks to both of you. I have never sent anything into tech support so this should be interesting to do this. I have replaced the layer with an insulation air gap. It is supposed to be 1 by 4 furring. I suppose i will have to auto detail that for the final drawings.  For once i am kind of delighted that this might be a a program "bug" rather than a user "bug" Thanks to all the help I have received out here i might just be beginning to figure this out.

As for SIPS I do wish Chief would offer more options. I prefer to build with them at least for myself and i have to customize every SIP wall i use.

On 6/30/2019 at 1:47 PM, Joe_Carrick said:

Does anyone have experience with using this product? 

 

It would seem to be a good alternative for a Garage Floor above a Basement.  In the past, I have done such garage floors with Heavy Timber Beams, Joists and 1-1/4" Plywood sub-floor.  In some cases I've used a tile finish floor and in other cases just 2" concrete.

 

Comments appreciated.

 

 

Hi Joe:

My dad who taught me years and years ago how to pour and build with concrete was always an early adopter of these kinds of systems and even though he in his 80's now he talked a friend of his into using this system for  a basement and they have been very happy with it. Bottom line is yes it costs a little more upfront but what it saves you in time and materials more than makes up for it. I do not know if that is the kind of feedback you are looking for.....I am considering using it in combination with SIPS panel construction for our new home.

I find the biggest problem with these systems is that builders and contractors are slow to change.

Hello everyone:

I have just finished a custom roof on a plan and everything seems to be in order except for one thing I cannot figure out. I am thinking as always this is something simple that I am just not getting so as always I have come out here for help. It appears as though part of one of the layers on the SIP assembly is showing through the edge of the main roof in the front. Since pictures and plans speak louder than words please see attached picture with my hand written notes on it and attached plan.

Thank you

7012019_(Shell5a).plan

17 hours ago, solver said:

Almost -- Please add X11

Eric:

Have done so. Thanks again. 

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13 hours ago, SNestor said:

 

Glad to help...I have a YouTube Page with lots of videos.  Check it out! (see link in my signature)

I found it earlier and have bookmarked it for future reference. Thanks much! I think I will be learning Chief for the rest of my life!

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4 minutes ago, SNestor said:

I made the wall a pony wall...and it seems to work well.  One trick (thanks to DSHall).  You need to pull your foundation wall around, push it up against the pony wall and then...make it invisible.  This will help with the turn down slab detail in the garage.  Hope that makes sense...look at the attached plan.

 

I looked at the plan and i see how it is working but i have to say I would have never thought os doing it that way. THANKYOU! This should work well.  

33 minutes ago, SNestor said:

I downloaded your plan and hit build foundation...below is the result.  Looks like it's working to me?

It works but I do not want the concrete stem wall at the back the garage to be concrete in the garage. I tried a pony wall but that does not seem to work. I want the wall in the garage at the back to be drywall and the foundation stem wall below to be concrete. Hope that makes sense?

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Okay three pics and the updated plan file with foundation. I am sure the answer to this is obvious but i am not seeing it. They pictures have notes on them.

6242019 RFH (Shell4).plan

Okay I have raised the ceiling height and redefined the room as a garage and so far things look right. Due to terrain I want this to be a stepped foundation with the garage on a four inch slab with 8  an inch turn down and the main living space elevated by 42 inches when i tried this before the foundation did not build correctly. Are their specific setting I should be using to ensure that their is a proper concrete stem wall under the wall between the garage and the main living section and that there is not a concrete wall in the back wall of the garage up against the main living area?

Here is the updated plan so far.

6242019 RFH (Shell3).plan

9 minutes ago, SNestor said:

Just raise the ceiling in the garage to allow for the 80" tall door.  

Okay let me go and try that. I am certain that if it works I will be back with foundation questions

Thanks Eric, signature complete  I want the door to be where it is but not above the ceiling platform.