sweetmelissa

The question was how do experienced CA users create this kind of wall with built in areas- some with arches. Thanks for your help. For anyone else who might search for similar help. For now, I changed my approach somewhat. Didn't fix all the issues, but it did some. First, I leave a wall in the back and add an additional wall the depth of the "built in" space. Then I use a "doorway"- remove casing, jamb and set to "not through" on double wall options (under casing tab). This alleviates some of the issues I was having when I was using a niche- though you still have to adjust how you place objects inside of it.

No need to worry about the design at this point y'all. It's not my design, it's the architects and this is by no means a finished product. Stick to the question asked!

So this is what I've figured out... Inside the niches is considered a different room. As you can see in the pic attached, the shelves and the far left stile/panel (plus the molding on top) don't even show up if the elevation is clipped to the room. It's the shelves and the far left panel that are measuring 7/8" below the working pantry's finished floor. I can't seem to adjust the finished floor measurement of the niches. But I'm going to keep trying. Despite all that- The original question was more about how do experienced CA users create these built in areas? Because I'm assuming experienced CA users have found the quickest and easiest way.

Quicker and easier- Building cabinets built into a wall with an arch (or not). I find using the niche tool easier than using 3d solids, especially when there are 3 on one wall. I'm just wondering if someone else uses a totally different method other than what I've mentioned. What's not working well - The niche acts like it's own room and is separate from the "working pantry". Nothing snaps to the back/sides of the niche, I have to draw a cad line in fp view or use dimensions to move cabinets, etc in place in elevation view. Also, the "from finished floor" measurement is different than the working pantry "room" (sometimes!). For example, one of my tall partitions - the 1 furthest on the left is 7/8" below the finished floor. One of the shelves also is not measuring from the finished floor even though I set it to. That's about all I guess. Again, I just came up with the niche method. I've never seen it done like that before - as far as taking it to the floor and setting cabinets into the niche. It's easier than what I was doing - though not without some irritations. Wondering if I'm missing a better way.

Hello, I have experimented around for a while and am now posting here for anyone who has the time or interest to tell me how they handle these situations. Basically, in the working pantry area several areas where the cabinets will be built into the walls with a couple arches over them. In the past I use soffits and 3D solids but thought that using a niche would be more efficient and tried that option. I used niches on the Left side of the room and started with a 3d solid/cut out the arch on the R side where the arch is. I like the niche option, getting a perfect arch was quick but it presents some other problems as far as snapping cabinets in place- so I ended up drawing cad lines to help with that. Hopefully I'm giving you enough information with the plan and screen shot. Question is what is your method to make this quick and easy? Surely I can make the niches work better? Thank you. niche question.plan

I chose the 3D Tab- worked like a charm! Many thanks!!

Anyone else not finding a way to change the appliance handle to the other side of the appliance- such as subzero UC refrigerators/icemakers etc.? It was easily done in x14 when you opened it up. Am I missing where to do it?

We provide custom cabinetry for residential builders and interior designers to include kitchens, bathrooms, closets, etc. Looking for help drawing the plans as we have several jobs coming up. Attaching a couple layouts for reference. Would love to talk over the phone to discuss details. Berry Cabinet Drawings 6-8-21.pdf 2050 Old Hillsboro Closet 11-30-20 -for signature-.pdf

Ok, I'm game... I'll give it a try. Thanks for the suggestion... and encouragement!

Ick... well, darn. Thanks for the answer, at least I can stop searching for an easier/quicker solution.

On my layout... I would like to see the shelving/interior of the cabinets like you can in "Glass house" view of an elevation, however, I want it to look like it does in "Vector View". So, vector view with shelves/interior showing/visible through the doors of cabinets. Is that possible? Thank you! I'm using x13 now... I'll change my signature.

I did build it as one cabinet, but when I tried to use the material painter to paint the inside, it didn't work. Opening the cabinet and adjusting the interior material worked perfectly. Thanks!

Eric, you are my new favorite person!

That will take forever! There are 5 sides to every cubbie! Maybe I could copy and paste, but oh my goodness. Perhaps I should just make a note!

If I want the inside of the cubbies to be a wood stain, how the heck would I do that? Is it possible? I know you can do the "backs" of cabinets a different color with x12, but can I do all the sides/back? If I use shelves and partitions to build it can I do it??

I understand your point. For my application in a simple bathroom, it works perfectly.

I haven't had to learn about railings/half walls to this point (which is crazy since I started this a little over 2 years ago). I found a video "stacking railings to create a glass shower enclosure" which shows basic steps. Thanks for your input!

Now, that I look, neither the pony wall or the shower glass/door wall is supposed to go to the ceiling... which seems logical. Back to my original problem. Don't mind me while I fumble around here!

Sorry, I keep answering my own questions. Well, in case it helps anyone else... when I click on "no room moldings exterior/interior" my molding problem is solved. Whoo hoo!

Actually, I've made the situation better. If I go unclick railing in the "straight glass pony wall", it extends it to the ceiling. Problem 1 solved. I still have to get rid of the crown molding.

Yeeeah, but surely there's a way to adjust the height of the other, right? When I make an interior wall a pony wall and put it in place, I then have to go get rid of the crown molding it put across the top of it! Ugh.

If I use the "straight glass pony wall" type in the bathroom, the glass portion doesn't go to the ceiling and I can't figure out how to adjust the overall height of the wall. I can place a regular interior wall (which goes to the ceiling automatically) but then I have to define it, make all the adjustments, etc. Anyone want to tell me how to adjust the height of the "straight glass pony wall" to save me time?! Thanks in advance.

Ok, thank you both. I think I misunderstood when I read the difference between sending as plot lines or live. The live view has an option to manually update and the plot line does not, so I wasn't sure if you could even manually update it. That's how I 'll do it then when I want no color.

Thanks Joey, but I'm confused. When I send a live vector view to layout it is always colored. If I check on plot lines, it isn't unless I add color fill, but from what I read that doesn't update as you make changes (though it seems to to some degree??). Do you have to change your elevation to "line drawing" to have it update automatically and not show colors? That would be fine I guess, but then I don't want to have to change the settings for the line drawing every time. I imagine there's a preference to set the defaults for the views but I couldn't quickly figure it out. I'll keep experimenting. I'm still just wondering if others think it's "better" to send line drawings instead of the colored views.