geirrosset
Members-
Posts
11 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation
0 NeutralAbout geirrosset
- Birthday 08/22/1974
Profile Information
-
Gender
Male
-
Location
Oslo, Norway
Recent Profile Visitors
1559 profile views
-
I did go to the planning office, and they gave me the 1933 plans for free. I modified them in Photoshop and expanded the size of the dormer and windows. Took me less than 30 minutes in total. Being based on the drawings of the house which were approved when the house was built they should be more than enough. The east and west faces are identical to the original, so no work was really needed on those. Thinking about it, using CA for something like this is like shooting a mouse with a cannon. I only needed to slightly change one face. Doing it in CA one would have to model the entire house (excluding interior and south facing details). However I know at least one user on this forum who could probably have done it in less than 30 minutes considering the detail level required (particularly now that I have the building plans).
-
I know it's asking much. I was thinking back to my student days when a project that just might make me some money would have been fine, as I was practising and drawing stuff anyway. And there are probably 14 year old kids out there hooked on drawing houses who wouldn't mind having even the potential to make some money. So "almost no one" is exactly who I'm looking for. But I do not agree that acceptance is my problem (of the project being approved yes, but acceptance of the drawings themselves as attachments to the application no). If I go to an architect and ask for these drawings, telling him what they are for, and the county does not accept the drawings, he would have to come up with new drawings (then again it's his/her job to know the technical specs for drawing for this purpose so he/she is not very likely to produce drawings that can't be used). Through this forum though it would be different, as the designer, especially if based overseas, might not know the proper guidelines as to how the drawing should look and what it needs to include. But I thought I'd give it a shot. I'll head down to the city planning office to see if they have the blueprint for our house in their archive (it's from 1936) and if they have them I'll probably just scan those in and modify them in Adobe Illustrator. Geir
-
For some reason Firefox crashes every time I try to add more photos. So let's just say that I have three more and if you'd like to take a crack at it I'll email them...
-
Looking for someone to do a house exterior for me. I'm looking for quotes from someone who would accept paypal and who would agree to defer payment until we know whether the drawings are approved (not the project, just the drawings themselves). If the county insists on drawings done by an architect it would be a shame to waste money on drawings we can't use. That being said it would be a shame to have wasted someone's time as well so this should be taken on only if you do not do this for a living and therefore wouldn't suffer economically by us not being able to use the finished drawing. I know this does not look like the most attractive job offer ever. I'm just asking in case someone on here does this as a hobby and would like to try. Images of the house are attached with some relevant measurements. We need line drawings of the three sides of the house showing the dormer. We need to include the drawings when we apply for a permit to expand the dormer on the roof and put in larger windows. We want to double the width (current width on the inside is 1.57m) and put in modern triple glaze windows which are about double the height (current windows are 0.5m tall). The roof line and gutter below the current windows will have to go. The file "Huset6" is a very coarse photoshop job showing the jist of what we want to do. Now that I read this post it's looking more and more like a pipe dream that someone should be willing to take this on. But stranger things have happened. Best regards Geir Rosset
-
Thanks for the video. It is great. Can't believe you did that dshall: The Nordic countries is a geographical and cultural region in Northern Europe and the North Atlantic. It consist of five countries (Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Norway and Sweden) as well as their autonomous regions (the Åland Islands, the Faroe Islands and Greenland). Scandinavia[a] is a historical and cultural-linguistic region in Northern Europe characterized by a common ethno-cultural Germanic heritage and related languages, which includes the three kingdoms of Denmark, Norway, and Sweden. The Baltic states (also known as the Baltics, Baltic nations or Baltic countries) are three northern European countries east of the Baltic Sea – Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania. We're not really as happy as we should be, could be the long dark cold winters... But it's a relatively peaceful corner of the planet I'd say. And there are a lot of beautiful places to see. Have a great vacation. I can recommend it.
-
So our house has a cross section like the attached drawing. Not sure how to build the 1st floor. Adding a floor to the ground floor does not really work as the walls on the 1st floor are offset and the whole 1st floor and attic are behind the gable wall formed by the ground floor on the short sides and the roof forms the other two walls, then there is another ceiling with the attic above. Any good tutorials illustrating something like this? Haven't found one....
-
Thank you both! I find it a bit odd that it isn't a more accessible part of CA. Have the tech team just decided that this is one the very few things on a house that is not important? The software is so advanced in almost every other aspect. I have never seen a house without them. The fact that a client might not ask to see them is, I think, irrelevant. The final image just looks better and more real when they are included. Planning how and where the water runs off not only the roofs, but the property itself, is a big deal. Our neighbor didn't take it into account when building his house in the early nineties and the mud around his house almost caved his cellar in as it was saturated with water running down slope under ground towards his house from where our house sits. I'm not saying that it's the job of someone doing 3D visualization to plan for all this, but as most houses have downspouts I think it would be nice to be able to include them in the final rendering and maybe even to be able to show simple pipes under ground to indicate where the water will be led off to just to show a client that you have thought about it. The actual solution need more engineering and knowledge of the terrain.
-
Now I remembered another couple of question I was struggling with. First of all the gutters. They look like they are a square box type. Does Chief have round ones in the standard library? And where do I find the downpipes? Can't see any in any sample drawings. Do I have to just make them out of a cylinder? And secondly the roof. I would like to use something like this: http://www.icopal.no/Produkter/Skraa%20tak/Decra/Elegance.aspx It's a clay/concrete tile roof (you also get metal panels which look like this) and It's what our house has atm and our garage will have the same thing. Not sure what to look for in the library. I guess it would have to be a "model" as it is a 3D shape, rather than just a texture. Can't see any sample images/models with anything but asphalt shingles... Geir
-
So here it is finally. Thanks for your help. Still need to tweak the terrain to get a correct slope. But otherwise this should be adequate to apply for a building permit. New section in red. Red cube is just a placeholder for our house. Any suggestions as to improvements are welcome. Geir
-
Thank you. I was gonna ask just that. It looked like it deconstructed the roof and made it look like just two roof planes leaning up against each other. Joining them might fix the ridge where the texture doesn't wrap. Can't help thinking that this should have been easier. Using dbxes to do something this simple seems unnecessary. Why isn't it possible to click select the ridge line itself and move it up and down vertically, thus changing the roof angle on both sides... Or one could have used align on the two ridge lines... Geir
-
So I can't figure out how to do this... I have a garage (6x4m) with the two shorter walls being gable walls. I am planning to extend a new section out from one of the long walls with a gable wall which means it will come into the old roof at a 90 degree angle. How do I make sure that the tops of the two roofs is at the same hight? I can't seem to set a different angle for the two directions (A and . Geir