brookesdesign

16 minutes ago, VHampton said:

Sky-lites make solar panel installations a breeze.

 

No ceiling hole. No worries.

 

No need for adjusting to the roof slopes either. The placement matches the roof exactly. 

 

 

 

I agree the skylights work great for solar panels but my question is how to stop them from cutting a hole in the roof.  You can turn off the hole in the ceiling but are still left with a hole in the roof.

I typically do manual roofs and I don't see a separate roof opening, just the skylight.  I can turn off shafts and holes in the ceiling but I'm stuck with the hole in the roof.  Its not a huge deal but in my sections you see the hole.  Seems like this would this would be an easy option for Chief to add being solar panels are being specified more and more (at least here in Washington State).

The bonus solar panel doesn't show up correctly.   Its dimension doesn't follow the pitch of the roof.  

The skylights in X15 are great and I've been using them as solar panels as they show up dimensionally correct on the roof but they cut the hole in the roof.  Is there a way to turn off the skylight from cutting the hole in the roof when using them as solar panels?

Awesome!  That worked great Rene.  I really appreciate your help. 

Thanks Rene.  Forgive my ignorance but the last time I programed anything was in "Basic" on my Atari 800XL in 1985.  If %type code% = "LS" then print "XO".  How do I type that in macro format and do I insert it under "Specify Label"?

I'm looking for an answer for this also.  I'm want my Left Slider windows to be labeled as XO and right sliders as OX.  

My sill is turned off.  It only goes away if I turn the casing off.

I couldn't find any settings that cleaned it up but I tried dragging the bottom of the doorway below the stoop and that fixed it.   I have to turn the casing off but at least the subfloor is gone.

I'm trying to recess my stairs into my front covered porch but I'm getting a small strip of subfloor under the wall where my steps start.  I used a wall with an arched doorway to create the arched entrance where my stairs start.  To create the area for the stairs I drew a room divide and called the space for the stairs as open to below.  Is there a setting I'm missing to help clean this up?

Aww!  Thank you Eric.  I've tried that before but it still trimmed it and made my fascia bigger also but I just saw a DBX to add it only to the gable.  So one last question, can I extend it 6" to hide the end of my gutter?

Is there a way to have a full plumb cut on a gable end and not have it trim to the fascia height?  I want a 2x12 barge board with a full plumb cut and a 2x6 fascia for my gutters. 

Thank you Eric.  I see you used a window to create an opening into the pop out.  I tried to duplicate what you did and didn't get quite the same results but will keep trying.  I need to get a floor in there but maybe I just need to use slabs to finish it off.  The addition is going over the garage so the pop out will go away anyways but I really wanted to know how to get that to show correctly.  I really appreciate you taking your time work on the model.

I'm working on my as-built for an addition I'll be working on and I've ran into a couple things.  First, my garage is 2' lower than the main floor.  The main floor and the garage both have 9' plates.  I have it correct in my model but when I add my foundation it gets all messed up.  I might have to just manually add one but if someone could help me with that.

My second issue is that the front elevation has two gable pop outs on the upper floor.  The floor of the pop-outs is 2' higher the bedroom floors.  I have the right one correct but the left on over the garage is giving me trouble.  I need to extend my garage roof to hit the wall but when I do my pop out walls go away even though they are above my garage roof.  I'm attaching a photo of the existing house and an image of my model.  I'll also attach the chief file if anyone feels like trying to fix it.

I really appreciate any feedback!

20-073-Existing.plan

Thank you Michael!  That works perfectly and the video was so helpful for me as a beginner.  

I appreciate the answers but I've tried a few of them and I'm getting goofy results.  Like I said I'm an advanced beginner so if anyone could give a little instruction on how they accomplished that look.  Don't laugh but this is as close as I've gotten with the molding polyline using the CA-35.

I'm trying to create this detail of a bay window and I'm having a heck of a time figuring out how to do it.  If I could do an upside down hip roof on the bottom bay window with a raised floor.   I'm an advanced beginner so I appreciate any help!  

Wow, thanks for all of the input.  I'm using X11 Beta so I probably can't post the plan.  I'll try all of the suggestions and see how they work.  I'm coming from 30 years of using autocad so its frustrating for something so simple to be so complex!  I'm loving Chief though and not having to manually draw elevations and sections is a huge time saver!

 Thanks Kbird1.  I tried changing the separation and that doesn't stop the windows from joining.  I'm attaching images from the house I'm working on.  I want (2) 2x studs between the windows.  Its framing them as one large opening.

I have several windows 3" apart and I don't want them to join together.  When framing the wall I want two studs between each window.  Is there default setting somewhere where I can turn off the windows joining?  Right now when I frame the wall it frames the 3 windows and one big opening.

I'm fairly new to Chief so sorry if this is a simple question!

I'm a building designer in Auburn, Wa and I'm looking for someone to help with drafting.  I mostly use AutoCad but I've been doing more and more in Chief and would like to end up switching once I'm fast enough.  I have to much work and need a helping hand.  I do mostly residential work from additions to new homes.  I would prefer someone local.