JuanR2

5 hours ago, Kbird1 said:

AFAIK that function is Automatic and can't be disabled , but perhaps if you save a Single switch to your Library as a new symbol as another non Electrical Symbol ( interior fixture perhaps ) it may allow what you want, but may have some side effects such as Auto Wire connections not working.

 

M.

1 hour ago, DBCooper said:

Just change the height of it, up/down a mm should do the trick.

 

THANKS! it solves the situation! Never thought 1 mm could do so much.

My plan view is what I want, one of the electrical switches NOT grouped with the other 3. But on perspective view, it groups the 4 of them! Is there a separation parameter I can edit? Putting them further apart is not a solution for my plan view, nor would it be possible on a narrow wall.

On 11/19/2021 at 8:17 AM, Dermot said:

Schedules will group objects based only on the information that is displayed in the schedule.  The one caveat is that we don't base the grouping on what the preview image looks like.  So just because one casement window is a right and the other is a left, if there is nothing in the schedule that says this, then they will be grouped together.  

 

In Eric's picture above, the windows are not grouped because the automatic description includes HL and HR to differentiate them.  If you remove this column then they would probably be grouped together.  

 

To get them to display separately, you just need to add some more information to the schedule that is different between them.  I don't think there are any built in schedule columns that display the hinging for casement windows (although this seems like the kind of thing that someone would want).  Adding your own comment or creating your own custom column for hinge side would work.

 

Information displayed on the Schedule includes OPENING INDICATORS, as of now my schedule does not include extra columns for Left or Right Swing or Slide. Going back to my original question I did not mention the Schedule was working fine on other Left and Right Casement groupings ....IT WAS JUST ONE particular case. Since I do have a Comment Column, I just wrote a period symbol " . " which is un noticeable for the Comment but enough to distinguish between hinge sides. ( I normally don't use industry terms as LH or RH since my projects are in spanish. I do use some english but have to stay away from the technical words to avoid missunderstandings). 

Thanks Dermot

09.-CML-A09a Puertas y Vent Casa.pdf

I have 2 Casement Windows, the only difference is the hinge side and I get the same Schedule Number, and the same Elevation drawing on the schedule. I should be getting 2 schedule numbers with their corresponding Left and Right Hinge side on the Elevation. (Left and Right Sliders come out ok, it is just the Casement). As for now I "forced" the Schedule to produce a new Schedule Number by adding a Comment on one of them ...to make it different!

49 minutes ago, glennw said:

Or...you can do it without knowing the main layer thickness..

Select the construction line.

On the edit Toolbar click on "Click On This And Then On An Object To Center The Selection On An Object".

On the edit toolbar click on "Click On This And Then On Two Locations To Center This Object Between".

Snap Point A to one side of the main layer and Point B to the other side of the main layer.

Click on the screen to finish.

 

Yessss!!! It works fine!!!! (spent all morning reading the manual).

When I center the Construction Line to a Wall, it centers to the middle of the complete assembly (Masonry Wall + Continuous Insullation), instead I need to center it to the Main Layer (Masonry Wall)

1 hour ago, DzinEye said:

I was kind of wondering why you wanted to insulate just one side of your parapet wall...though it appears you have it on the parapet on other side of the flat area too?

Installation-Guide-Hebel.pdf

First I got tied up wrestling with the software in regards to the model, until I got to the opportunity of focusing on the construction solution. Thanks for your concern besides the software!

• I'm using 6" thick Solid Hebel (autoclaved aereated concrete) for Exterior Walls with R=6.01. Being a Mass Wall it needs R=7 in Zone 2, so I'm going above that by adding 2" Foam with R=4.
• I'll be using a pre fab Hebel Floor so I can have a big Terrace above the house, and will also add the Foam on its perimeter to match the finish plane of the walls underneath it.
• For Parapet walls I'm using 6" CMU which in general does not "need" to be insullated, but in some cases will like the following: 

Right side Parapet Wall - I'm using foam to have the finish on the same plane as the floor and walls: with a high R value on the wall and Floor portion, and low R value (low density) on the Parapet. The "inside" of the Parapet not insullated since it is just sitting above the Hebel Floor and I'm using it to hide Air Conditioning Units;

Left side Parapet Wall - since we don't use wood rafters -in Mexico- and instead metal purlins, I will either add a concrete beam or U-Block CMU's to receive the purlins (will discuss this with the PE). Above either of the solutions I will have a Hebel parapet instead of the CMU. That is why I have a small piece of foam just to cover the possible concrete beam, which will be cut in a 45 degree angle so I can extend the fiberglass mesh and attach it to the Hebel, will not be using a flashing. 

Thanks again for your time and concern!

20 hours ago, DzinEye said:

Normally you can choose square cut and only the eave will be square, but I could see yours was square at the top for some reason.

Seems the unwanted "square cut" at the Top happens when the Parapet Wall Exterior Side is facing the Roof. In such case you need the "no special snapping" on and manually extend the Roof to the Pony wall - as in PIC 08. (After this point I did not like my construction solution with the useless foam above the Roof!);

On Pic 09 I reversed the Layers, now the foam is on the "exterior" of the Room -where I really need it- and now the cut is perfect! It does no need the "no special snapping" since it snaps perfectly to the wall.

As a conclusion, the Roof needs to butt against the interior side of the parapet wall -which is logical- in order for the Roof to cut as expected on the top. In my case I still did a pony wall to partially add foam to the portion of the wall that needs it.

THANKS for providing insight into solving this issue, your time is greatly appreciated!

Thanks DzinEye, finally solved!

I had a Parapet Wall with lower portion of wall - below the roof - without the foam: which behaves like but was not a pony wall.

What I did was change the Parapet Wall into a Pony wall to decide up to what elevation I needed the foam; matching the roof finish. With this I did not need to change the bottom portion of the pony wall below the Roof. I manually extended the Roof to butt against the Pony Wall .

The only small thing I could not fix is that my design look better with the square than with the plumb cut. The square cut on the overhang is more noticeable than the butting of the roof that "invades" the wall. 

My plan is 80+ MB I can't upload it. I could save a portion and upload that

On my Pic 03 I have a pony wall with foam above and not below the roof: that is exactly how I need it. But the problem is the Foam (Exterior Layer) does not let the Structure of the Roof butt against the CMU (Main Layer): the structure needs to butt against the bearing wall and not the foam. Another way to put this is that the upper portion of the pony wall goes too far down and into the roof structure, instead of my foam butting against the structure or plywood of the roof. The plan view of the Roof does not butt against the surface of the interior wall which is aligned to the parapet wall, as seen in Pic 02. 

If from here I manually extend the Roof with the "no special snapping" I  loose the the pony wall: I does not let me keep the pony wall.

Tks but Plumb cut did not "elongate" the structure to butt against the Main Layer, the problem is still there. I keep thinking it is a Wall Setting for the "wish list".

I have a 6" CMU Parapet Wall with 2" Continuous Insullation, the Roof is butting against the Exterior Layer (rigid insullation) instead of the Main Layer which is my CMU bearing wall.

Pic 01 - On Wall Type Definitions you can decide which Layer to use for the Foundation and Dimension placement, but not for the Roof ;

Pic 02 - On Plan View the Roof is short of butting against the Interior Wall;

Pic 03 - I changed the lower portion of the parapet wall but the Roof butts against the upper portion -against the Exterior Layer- instead of the Main Layer which is my bearing wall.

Pic 04 - To force the Roof butt against the Main Layer I manually extend the Roof by removing "special snapping" but with this fix I loose the "pony wall" and can't change the lower portion of the parapet wall. I neither want the continuous insullation on the interior of the room nor is the Roof actually butting against the Main Layer, rather it penetrates the wall.

Pic 05 - The only solution I could find is changing the Wall Definition - removing the Exterior Layer - and manually draw the continuous insullation directly on the Facade?