Will Somebody Help Me With This Bucking Plan?


dshall
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Yes Yusuf, that is Dennis Gavin's method. However you forgot to put an exterior finish on the non room def wall.

I think Gavin Dennis gets this weeks award for "Inspirational Achievements", thanks again DG, good stuff.

I was too buzzy and when I back tracked the topic, I realized Dennis has put it precisely to the point , nice job Dennis!

Actually Dennis contributes a lot more. But Scott let me say, you over state your friends like me(Yusuf), Dennis etc. It seems me was the last person you were waiting for new ideas as every one can see it, and it didn't take time for you to conclude after I confirmed Dennis's method in my post....ha ha ha. just kidding.

Try to wait for those in process to come up with clever solutions. Look at joey's method, wonderful!

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Joey, how does that look in vector view, won't you have to delete any extra lines that show up on every window? then if you make any changes , take the extra lines out again.

You would have to change your elevations to a cad drawings before you send them to layout so you can delete the extra lines or white them out in the layout once you send it.

 

A little extra work but apparently you have to choose your method to suite your needs.

 

If you use the pony wall you can eliminate the lines on the bottom section but not the top. That is why I'm suggesting to CA that they not only have a pony wall but a top section also. So the wall can be broken up into Top section, middle section and lower section (pony wall).

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Joey, how does that look in vector view, won't you have to delete any extra lines that show up on every window? then if you make any changes , take the extra lines out again.

I tried it with the pony wall and the vertical lines below the windows still show up in vector view also.

Bummer!

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Yeah Scott, I took my present and left.

 

I remembered that it was the same method that you used right back in the beginning.

I still think the best way is to use a double wall and the Enlarged option. 

It's just so much cleaner and easier to edit.

I would put up with the double framing - mainly because I don't use framing anyway, so it would be perfect for me.!

But, each to his own.

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.....I still think the best way is to use a double wall and the Enlarged option. 

......

 

 

I thought so too until I saw The Dennis Gavin method.  

 

I would use the double wall method if it was only one window.  But it is every window and door on every wall on about 12 different houses and I thought the double wall system would be too much trouble.  I always draw with the notion that whatever I draw will need to be edited.  And then there is the thought that none of my building sections would be correct,  they would show the double walls and plates.  I suppose I thought this was the best of the evils.

 

I think I have chosen my poison.

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Scott,

 

I said I wasn't going to do this - but I think I've found a solution.  I'm going to take Joey's method to create a Window Symbol which I will then insert into an 8" stud wall.  I need to check on a couple of the settings needed but I think it will provide everything you want.  Stay tuned......

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OK, Here's what I've come up with.

post-47-0-23191300-1431186062_thumb.pngpost-47-0-76525700-1431186088_thumb.pngpost-47-0-71904800-1431186120_thumb.pngpost-47-0-23863800-1431186142_thumb.png

 

After inserting the Window Symbol in the Plan I had to do a few things:

 

1.  Set the 2D Block to None

2.  Adjust the Frame Size to 3" Wide (all around)

3.  Set the Frame Depth to 4" inset 4"

4.  Add Interior Casings (optional)

 

Manually edit the Label to reflect the actual Window size instead of the Symbol Size.

 

It isn't perfect, but it Frames as an 8" Stud Wall and there are no extra lines to remove.  I haven't checked to see what the Schedule says, but it should be possible to modify anything that isn't accurate in the Component dbx.

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It would be much better if Chief allowed the 2D Block to be offset in the y direction as is the 3D Symbol - actually, that should be automatic (maybe in X8).  Then we could make the 2D Block be whatever we wanted and make the Plan View perfect.  I tried using exterior casings to cover the ends of the studs but they can't be inset.  Maybe Bill's "Blinds" method could be used for that.

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Nice Joe, it sure would be nice if Chief would let us recess the casings to the window instead of putting it on the main layer, then we only have to change the casing material to stucco. You can do this with a brick wall now.

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Note:  This could also be done without using a Custom Symbol but you would not be able to change the Frame to Stucco and you would still need to make the window wider and edit the label and the components dbx.  There is no perfect solution.

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After a more thorough analysis, this would be easy to do if CA would add:

 

1.  Recessed Wall (Bucked Frame) - Wall_Type and width required.

2.  Separate Frame and Bucked Frame Materials

3.  Recess Casing to Frame

 

I am not going to make this suggestion at this time - maybe later.  :P but it would need to be done for Doors as well.

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Here is another way, you can adjust the windows however you want. 2d plan doesn't look correct ,but close.

Holy effing kamoly,  and the P Man is the new winner.  Very very nice P.  thanks.  I might have to practice,  but I think you have it...  I think.......  there might be a obscure minor problem that I will look into.....  but this might be the cleanest solution to date.......  really really nice......

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Just playing around with the main layer, so the casing can recess,  and don't cut any sections thru the windows b/c there is no framing layer in the exterior wall below the window, I guess you could just label it furred wall.

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P.  I do not know what to say but thank you very much.  A wonderful simple solution.......  thank you thank you.  The one issue I was imagining was the ref layer of sill plates at slab foundation level.  Not a big deal.  A great solution that can be retro actively implemented.

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Holy effing kamoly,  and the P Man is the new winner.  Very very nice P.  thanks.  I might have to practice,  but I think you have it...  I think.......  there might be a obscure minor problem that I will look into.....  but this might be the cleanest solution to date.......  really really nice......

Scott,

 

The one thing about this solution that has to be "touched up" is the wall framing above and below the window.  Otherwise it covers just about all the bases.  Also, you can't just slide the window to another location.

 

The typical use of "Bucks" for Doors and Windows is a wood frame (1x or 2x) inside a masonry or concrete opening in the wall.  This is to provide something to attach the Door or Window to.  Using this principle in a thick stud framed wall is similar.  The Wall opening is simply framed a little larger and the "Buck" is framed inside that opening.

 

IMO this should be added to the Door and Window dialogs.  Then it would be automatic and everything would work exactly as in the real world.

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No, it was a question for Glenn.

Just wanted to make sure I wasn't out of line with something. A few posted comments didn't make sense and made me think I may have been duplicating someone else's ideas. Don't want to step on anyone's toe's.

 

Respectfully

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