Moldings and Invisible Walls

[SNestor]

Is this a typical problem with Chief?  Many times when I've added an invisible wall in order to create a "room" with a drop ceiling...the baseboard does not wrap around the wall.  Just a real PIA...

 

Example:

[Joe_Carrick]

Steve,

 

How thick is your invisible wall.  Typically a "Room Divider" should be very thin and prevents this problem.

[SNestor]

11 minutes ago, solver said:

Instead of an invisible wall, I'll use a doorway.

 

 

 

Chief will upsize a thin wall to match the wall it builds above the opening.

 

I agree with Eric on this one...a very thin dividing wall just auto changes to an interior-4 when you change the ceiling height.  

 

I'm happy to know that the "invisible wall" is a problem and doesn't always allow the base (or other moldings) to wrap correctly.  I was just wondering if it was me or Chief...

 

The problem with using a doorway is that if you have a white ceiling...you can't paint the door jamb the same color and you end up with a strip up at the front edge...so, you just have to paint the dropped ceiling the wall color.  Not a big deal...but just another work around in Chief.  

[Joe_Carrick]

In that case - just use a "Soffit" for the dropped ceiling area.  No need for a separate room.

[SNestor]

2 hours ago, solver said:

 

Not understanding this. What do you want that is different from the image I posted -- the white dropped ceiling edge? 

 

I still cannot believe this is how Chief models this condition.

 

I have p-solids in the library (I've colored them here so the parts would show up) that I use after drawing my own ceiling plane.

 

Eric - you are right!  Doorways are the way to go.  

So...to get a "white ceiling" and keeping the doorway the drywall color....I raised the doorway height to just above the finished ceiling and it works.  Using a doorway is the way to go...saves a lot of time and hassle.  

 

As far as using a "soffit"...the soffit is just one color, the bottom of a soffit cannot be "white" like a ceiling...

See pics below...

  

[Kbird1]

A room molding Polyline will work in this case too , you just need to manipulate it to fill the gap and turn that piece back on.

 

It actually easier to add the room molding polyline BEFORE you draw  the Room Divider (RD), nothing to do then as it is already there, the RD doesn't

seem to effect it

[BillMc]

I find that the easiest way to prevent this appearance is to kink the invisible room divider so that it does not meet the adjoining wall on the corner. Just a small L shaped diversion in the wall does the trick. It does not effect the room dimensioning unless it happens to be in the exact centre of the room.

[robdyck]

I usually use an invisible room divider that's 1/2" thick and is 1 layer of drywall, or the same material as my typical wall finish. If my room divider is perpendicular to the end of a partition, I make sure its a through wall. That puts drywall on the end of the partition. I rarely run into the interrupted baseboard this way.

This isn't perfect for every scenario, but good for many. In the OP, I'd also use a doorway that's NOT in the schedule (if using one). 

[SNestor]

9 hours ago, robdyck said:

I usually use an invisible room divider that's 1/2" thick and is 1 layer of drywall, or the same material as my typical wall finish. If my room divider is perpendicular to the end of a partition, I make sure its a through wall. That puts drywall on the end of the partition. I rarely run into the interrupted baseboard this way.

This isn't perfect for every scenario, but good for many. In the OP, I'd also use a doorway that's NOT in the schedule (if using one). 

If you change the ceiling height the room divider wall will automatically change to an interior-4 to create the drop ceiling.  Really...using a doorway seems to be the easiest method.  

[Cheryl_C_Crane]

I've been using Mick's method, but I'd love to have the Room Divider work correctly without a workaround. Goo to know about the Doorway. Thanks!