I think they've fixed floor and ceiling elevations.


Richard_Morrison
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I'm with Michael on this.  97 1/8" is standard around here.  No strapping on bottom of trusses, they have predesigned brace strapping between trusses not below.

It's amazing, the different regional differences!  Until you read this, you think your way is the "right" way.

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15 hours ago, BryceEngstrom said:

Only stud length for 8 ft. walls I have ever seen in 20 years of framing in California has been 92-1/4" + 4-1/2" of plates (one bottom, two top) gives you 96-3/4".  5/8" drywall lid leaves you just enough to get 2 - 48" wide drywall sheets stacked underneath so you have good bottom plate nailing.

 

 

 

same around here , I always have to change CA's default and wondered where it was 97 1/8 , was thinking just Idaho  :) but I guess not....

 

M.

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13 minutes ago, Kbird1 said:

 

same around here , I always have to change CA's default and wondered where it was 97 1/8 , was thinking just Idaho  :) but I guess not....

 

M.

Curious, don't most users have their own defaults for each floor set up in Chief?

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1 hour ago, HumbleChief said:

Curious, don't most users have their own defaults for each floor set up in Chief?

Exactly....   I have all my defaults set up and the only time I have to switch, is when I know walls or floor sys will be different.  Eg, 11 7/8 I joist vs 14 vs 16" owt.   Or various wall arrangements.  

 

I do this BEFORE I even start drawing and I try to get these bridges crossed before getting too far in the plan.   Sometimes there isn't room for the two extra treads to go from 9' to 10' walls as an example.   I like to have these decisions made early!

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23 hours ago, VisualDandD said:

In the southeast studs are standard at 93 in 105 in and 117 in.  

 

So walls are 8' 1 1/2".  9' 1 1/2". & 10' 1 1/2"

 

 

I always figured they thought we could not do fractions in the southeast... LOL

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3 hours ago, VisualDandD said:

I do this BEFORE I even start drawing and I try to get these bridges crossed before getting too far in the plan.

That would be the ideal way to work. I have templates set up with different defaults to start new plans from. However, in our area most of the work I do (not all) is in non-code areas and the joist supplier does the floor system engineering with their software. I have to have my plans almost finished before I can even send it to them for the floor design. Plays havoc with my time when I send it out expecting 11 7/8" joists and find out they sized the entire floor at 14" or greater depending on what mood they are in and what direction they run the joists. Just finished one they did that to. Had to rework everything affected (a general note would not have worked on this one).

 

3 hours ago, VisualDandD said:

Sometimes there isn't room for the two extra treads

That one is always a problem.

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12 hours ago, HumbleChief said:

Curious, don't most users have their own defaults for each floor set up in Chief?

 

I mostly do Remodels / Renovations and depending on the Era of the house they are all different, for example the current one has a height of 98" finished floor to finished Ceiling , so I'm using 9' Precuts for the 99 1/2" height.

 

M.

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Yes, it can be confusing, setting and moving roof heights and we just have to accept that for now.

 

It is not the logical way to do things in real life, as we usually build from the ground up.

 

Lew, I agree about room height or wall locks too.

 

This thread got side tracked to wall stud heights for a while. 

 

So what is the next step? Explode all the room module control's then regroup them after we make changes.

 

Maybe we could have a room rebuild hierarchy? 

 

Have a lock the room height tab for each room then mark the room to move up or down or stay put after a rebuild?

 

So these can control how the room modules move and have any adjoing stairs follow the room they are connected to?

 

Hey, I am no computer programmer but there should be a more effective way and that's why we have SSA and upgrades.

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