FRAMING DETAIL HELP


woodwizard
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Good Afternoon All,

 

I am having issues with my drawing and could really use some help. This is a whole house renovation we are working on and I have viewed the help videos and still can not get my 2 gable walls to display properly. is there something I have set wrong or just plainly enough doing wrong.  the issue is in the 4 season room. this is an addition to the back of the existing home, about 8 feet of the addition is in the kitchen and will have a 8' ceiling and the rest of the addition will have cathedral ceiling with either 2x8 or 2x10 rafters and close cell insulation to meet codes. Thank you in advance for any and all help! 

 

In some of the 3d and framing views from the interior looking out the gables are missing, also when I tell CA to re-frame it always changes items...

 

Anthony Costanzo, CR CLC

Bartos_concept_floor_plan_2.plan

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When I do framing over view I can see the framing on the inside gable but nothing on the exterior gable. I went through the help videos and cant get this correct. I want my wall to have a double top plate and then have the gable built to accept the windows. Hope that makes sence

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Ideally on the exterior wall I want to have a PSL post extending up to support the structural ridge.  I am going to duplicate that same PSL post in the kitchen wall.  The structural ridge will extend back to the second floor wall and tie into a beam pocket.

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8 minutes ago, solver said:

Don't know why the Build Framing For Selected Object tool was not available.

It's because Retain Wall Framing was checked.  Or maybe something like this is what the OP was looking for?

Framing.thumb.jpg.97ad59745c8b47bd9db15ae5594832e8.jpg

...if so, Chief currently isn't quite smart enough to get that right automatically.  You'll just have to manually modify the framing.

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One think I've found is that "Gable-End Trusses" don't provide a finished Gable End Wall in 3D Views.  We have to add "Attic Walls" without framing in order to get the 3D to display correctly.  IMO, we should be able to just specify the exterior layers to be added to the "Gable-End Trusses" similar to a Wall Material Region.

 

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2 minutes ago, Joe_Carrick said:

One think I've found is that "Gable-End Trusses" don't provide a finished Gable End Wall in 3D Views.  We have to add "Attic Walls" without framing in order to get the 3D to display correctly.  IMO, we should be able to just specify the exterior layers to be added to the "Gable-End Trusses" similar to a Wall Material Region.

 

 

Are you talking about an actual gable end truss?  If so, I don't have any problem with those...

5aac0c5ccac55_Pic1.thumb.jpg.5a1fc32600acdf04563ba078a007c2b2.jpg5aac0c5db3ae1_Pic2.thumb.jpg.7448691d5e47f6d7161c9836e890765c.jpg

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Eric, that is pretty close to what I am trying to create. I can then add in the PSL Post manually. I have been changing different items and found that if the exterior wall is balloon framed then I can place the windows higher and the way I'd like but still cant get it as close as you did on the first one. I must have settings wrong in the wall structure tab.

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19 minutes ago, woodwizard said:

Eric, that is pretty close to what I am trying to create. I can then add in the PSL Post manually. I have been changing different items and found that if the exterior wall is balloon framed then I can place the windows higher and the way I'd like but still cant get it as close as you did on the first one. I must have settings wrong in the wall structure tab.

 

In my opinion, none of the setting variations you could possibly try will frame your situation quite right with Chief's current framing rules and no matter what you do you'll still have to manually modify it.  Either the headers won't be right or the plates won't be right, or something won't be right.  I'd recommend you just frame the lower wall, frame the upper wall, and then modify the framing as necessary to get what you ACTUALLY want which I typically do in Wall Detail.

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41 minutes ago, Alaskan_Son said:

 

Are you talking about an actual gable end truss?  If so, I don't have any problem with those...

5aac0c5ccac55_Pic1.thumb.jpg.5a1fc32600acdf04563ba078a007c2b2.jpg5aac0c5db3ae1_Pic2.thumb.jpg.7448691d5e47f6d7161c9836e890765c.jpg

Delete the Attic Gable End Wall.  Right now you have both a Gable End Truss and an Attic Wall.  That means that if you Build all Wall Framing you will have a mess.

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Yes Eric, that is the closest one. I will open the one you sent and see what I can do and post any other questions.  As usual, this group of Chief Architect users never ceases to amaze me with the want to help others. Awesome group, thanks!

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1 hour ago, Joe_Carrick said:

Delete the Attic Gable End Wall.  Right now you have both a Gable End Truss and an Attic Wall.  That means that if you Build all Wall Framing you will have a mess.

 

I have Noticed this Issue for a While too , the Reduced Gable / End truss does not eliminate the wall framing automatically like Trusses do will ceiling Joists and Rafters. Maybe I need to play more but I have not found the "Special Combo" of Check Boxes and Truss Placement (possibly?) to correct this automatically.

 

M.

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Eric, i was able to import your wall into my layout but can not get it to frame. It frames everything but that wall. Am I missing anything?

 

Gene, my engineer always reviews our projects as specs what is needed.

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On 3/16/2018 at 2:19 PM, woodwizard said:

Alaskan Son, that is the way I see it being build along with my engineer.  

That is a terrible design structurally and I dare say from and aesthetic as well as functional aspect, it could be better as well.

 

You do need the load bearing ridge but with only two full length bearing members in that wall, it will be shaky as hell.  If you HAD to accomplish this, I would be thinking a steel post MIN and bringing that wall up to a 2x6 at min.    Your engineer might also consider one continuous built up header across the entire span to give the wall lateral support.

 

This comes to the second part.   I dont get the 2 operable slider thing.  I never like that.   I would do a single 4 panel unit with the two center panels operable.   In the south standard header height is 83", so I would leave room for an 11 1/4 lvl above door (to take the load bearing ridge.   I would have 4 2x6 studs between the slider and fixed unit running plate to roof line.  (possibly a PSL col if necessary).   To keep from having to break the vertical member, us a simpson HH6's for the lvl.  You can then use a simpson HUC on the opposite side to catch the fixed window header.   The HUC is a concealed tab and wont interfere with the HH6 which has an overlap on side of hanger to give you more lateral stability you will need for the center header holding the roof point load from the load bearing ridge.


All in all, this change should be about the same money or less.   (fixed units are cheap as heck, and the swap from two separate doors to one single unit should be very close).  If raise the fixed windows up to match the other windows you have in the room, you wont need to temper them and that will be decent savings as well.

In my opinion, a much nicer structural design with a better livability and better views. 

 

Just a thought and rough sketch attached.

Capture.JPG

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1 hour ago, VisualDandD said:

That is a terrible design structurally and I dare say from and aesthetic as well as functional aspect, it could be better as well.

None of our business.

I'd suggest getting it close, than making the adjustments manually, then clicking 'retain wall framing' to lock it. It can take longer playing with Chief's settings to try to get it 'right' than doing it yourself, but then again, I don't know what your end goals are. Is it just for visualization or do you need to produce framing diagrams for this wall?

I do have a couple of other suggestions (that you may already be aware of so forgive me if it's a moot point):

-use the grid to layout your plan accurately on x and y axis. Or turn it off. Locate ZERO and move the whole building so it starts (bottom left corner) there. This will place your studs and rafters more accurately seeing as there's no framing reference marker used.

-dimension accurately. No framer (or anyone else) wants a wall that's 24'-11.48893746"

-if you're producing a framing diagram of the gable end wall, the framing should be symmetrical from the center. It's easier to cut sheathing to fit the wall, then have different sizes of mitered studs.

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On 3/16/2018 at 12:10 PM, Joe_Carrick said:

Delete the Attic Gable End Wall.  Right now you have both a Gable End Truss and an Attic Wall.  That means that if you Build all Wall Framing you will have a mess.

 

I am pretty sure that if you hit f12,  the studs will disappear at gable end and you will be left with gable end truss.

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